Group buy: 2pc wortec rotors for steel super brakes on f-type
#201
I have requested this (attached image which is an M4 disc but same design for me) or as close as which Paul is sorting, they shall also trial fit and test the suncut versions on my car too, just to ensure all is spot on.
The following users liked this post:
JgaXkr (04-04-2018)
#202
Frustrating......
To my great frustration (especially about my own stupidity) I was wrong to assume that I have the 376mm super performance brakes on the rear. I have the tiny 325mm rear rotors but I am not about to give up on this project and I am definitely going ahead with swapping the front rotors. As I recall there was only one other forum member (RGPV6S) interested in the swap with the small rear rotors and since I do find the look of my tiny rear rotors silly I am considering swapping the rear calipers, brackets and splash guards for the super performance model (going to be expensive - price to pay for stupidity).
However, apart from the costs I am concerned about break force distribution (brake balance) since I assume that the larger super performance rear brakes will have significantly more bite and introduce an unbalance in break force distribution front/rear. Does anyone have a clue if I should be worried about break balance or any other issues that I should be aware of when upgrading the rears to the super performance type?
However, apart from the costs I am concerned about break force distribution (brake balance) since I assume that the larger super performance rear brakes will have significantly more bite and introduce an unbalance in break force distribution front/rear. Does anyone have a clue if I should be worried about break balance or any other issues that I should be aware of when upgrading the rears to the super performance type?
#203
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 8,303
Received 3,126 Likes
on
2,304 Posts
#204
#205
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 8,303
Received 3,126 Likes
on
2,304 Posts
I already had the slotted and drilled rotors bought a couple of years earlier for my XFR, I bought them off an eBay seller.
I got the calipers new and dirt cheap from a UK eBay seller, I was lucky.
I got the rest - new caliper brackets and splash shields - from Britcar in the UK.
I used Porterfield R4S pads, I bought them direct from the Porterfield supplier.
The following users liked this post:
F-Type-Type (04-08-2018)
#206
Components ordered
Check out this thread, all the info you need including part numbers, hints & tips is in it: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...de+rear+brakes
I already had the slotted and drilled rotors bought a couple of years earlier for my XFR, I bought them off an eBay seller.
I got the calipers new and dirt cheap from a UK eBay seller, I was lucky.
I got the rest - new caliper brackets and splash shields - from Britcar in the UK.
I used Porterfield R4S pads, I bought them direct from the Porterfield supplier.
I already had the slotted and drilled rotors bought a couple of years earlier for my XFR, I bought them off an eBay seller.
I got the calipers new and dirt cheap from a UK eBay seller, I was lucky.
I got the rest - new caliper brackets and splash shields - from Britcar in the UK.
I used Porterfield R4S pads, I bought them direct from the Porterfield supplier.
#207
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 8,303
Received 3,126 Likes
on
2,304 Posts
I followed your advice and ordered the whole monty from BritCar. Great service, the goodies should already be on their way. Very helpful to have your thread/advice. Expensive though to be lightweight and good looking: nearly 1000 pounds for the upgrade parts w/o rotors, but.....worth it!
It should be straightforward, but the main tip I can give is about those crush washers on the rear brake lines. If you don't get new ones with the new calipers then you must re-use the old ones, but before you do make sure you file them flat (remove the inner ridges that develop when you tighten then right up) and add spacer washers around 1 mm thick on the outside of the brake line bolts. And remember to do those brake line bolts and caliper bolts up RFT.
If you don't do these things the brake lines will leak!
#208
That's great!
It should be straightforward, but the main tip I can give is about those crush washers on the rear brake lines. If you don't get new ones with the new calipers then you must re-use the old ones, but before you do make sure you file them flat (remove the inner ridges that develop when you tighten then right up) and add spacer washers around 1 mm thick on the outside of the brake line bolts. And remember to do those brake line bolts and caliper bolts up RFT.
If you don't do these things the brake lines will leak!
It should be straightforward, but the main tip I can give is about those crush washers on the rear brake lines. If you don't get new ones with the new calipers then you must re-use the old ones, but before you do make sure you file them flat (remove the inner ridges that develop when you tighten then right up) and add spacer washers around 1 mm thick on the outside of the brake line bolts. And remember to do those brake line bolts and caliper bolts up RFT.
If you don't do these things the brake lines will leak!
This method may work, but get new crush washers so you aren't tempted to do it this way.
#210
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 8,303
Received 3,126 Likes
on
2,304 Posts
You can't use any off-the-shelf washers as they have to be the exact right size to a tiny fraction of a mm both inner and outer diameter otherwise they will not work.
No technical name that I know of, I think they are simply called "brake line to brake caliper bolt washers" and any half decent JLR dealer will know exactly what you are talking about.
#211
From my experience the only place you can get them is from a JLR dealer and they will cost a bomb (well at least for four tiny copper washers!).
You can't use any off-the-shelf washers as they have to be the exact right size to a tiny fraction of a mm both inner and outer diameter otherwise they will not work.
No technical name that I know of, I think they are simply called "brake line to brake caliper bolt washers" and any half decent JLR dealer will know exactly what you are talking about.
You can't use any off-the-shelf washers as they have to be the exact right size to a tiny fraction of a mm both inner and outer diameter otherwise they will not work.
No technical name that I know of, I think they are simply called "brake line to brake caliper bolt washers" and any half decent JLR dealer will know exactly what you are talking about.
#212
#213
Just be ready to run to the dealer to pick up a couple of pad sensors if Wortec isn't careful with them.
#214
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 8,303
Received 3,126 Likes
on
2,304 Posts
The brake pad wear sensors are only for owners who never check their brake pads, I disabled them on all three of my Jags because they can be problematic.
The easiest and simplest way to disable them is to cut and join the wires as this fools the system into thinking the sensor has not worn through. The sensors work on open circuit vs closed circuit, they eventually wear through (at around 4 mm pad thickness left), go open circuit and trigger the "low brake pads" warning on the dash, so making them permanent closed circuit by cutting and joining the wires does the trick.
It's no good just pulling them right off as you will get constant error messages on the dash, you need to leave them plugged in at the electrical plug end up in the wheel arch and cut and join the wires.
The other way to disable them is by modifying the CCF using SDD which Cambo did for me on my XFR.
The easiest and simplest way to disable them is to cut and join the wires as this fools the system into thinking the sensor has not worn through. The sensors work on open circuit vs closed circuit, they eventually wear through (at around 4 mm pad thickness left), go open circuit and trigger the "low brake pads" warning on the dash, so making them permanent closed circuit by cutting and joining the wires does the trick.
It's no good just pulling them right off as you will get constant error messages on the dash, you need to leave them plugged in at the electrical plug end up in the wheel arch and cut and join the wires.
The other way to disable them is by modifying the CCF using SDD which Cambo did for me on my XFR.
The following users liked this post:
XJ8JR (04-10-2018)
#215
#216
#217
#218
Last edited by RGPV6S; 04-10-2018 at 06:25 PM.
#219
That online dealer has good prices, but you can lose some ground with their shipping/handling charges. 90% of the time you can find a better deal on eBay for OEM parts. Just insert the part number into their search function.
#220
I was told by a USA JLR dealer that over the counter must be charged at list price and same dealer with online parts business (often under a generic business name) can discount. Based on some recent purchases the online price was16% less. As unhinged has pointed out you have to pay shipping but can save sales tax depending on where you purchase.