I'm not judging yet, just a little surprised by how for out the tire ended up.

 

Dwelter, or anyone else who has installed theirs already (mine are still with customs) - could you please take a 2 and 5 o'clock picture from about 10 feet away?

 

Look...

Sweet!

 

on each wheel because if you notice on the oem wheels (Tornado's), there is a bump on one of the indentions in the groove where the adapter mount screw recesses into. Took shop about 10 minutes to cut (4) bolts and they charged me an extra $20. The total job for me was $60. Took about an hour.

Extremely pleased with the results. So much so that for now, I'm not even looking at wheels anymore.

I have but one word for the look. "Beefy".

 

Looks good, nice job!

 

+1. However, the black plastic trailing lip behind the rear tire does a good job protecting behind the rear wheel. The real problem is just in front of the rear wheel at the rocker from crap coming off the the front tire. My xPel there feels like sandpaper. I will have to get the rockers re-wrapped every 2 years.

 

[QUOTE=polarisnavyxj;1505685]on each wheel because if you notice on the oem wheels (Tornado's), there is a bump on one of the indentions in the groove where the adapter mount screw recesses into. Took shop about 10 minutes to cut (4) bolts and they charged me an extra $20. The total job for me was $60. Took about an hour.

Extremely pleased with the results. So much so that for now, I'm not even looking at wheels anymore.

I have but one word for the look. "Beefy".[/QUOTe

Please provide more details on what had to be done as I was planning to install mine this weekend. I also have the Tornado wheels & was hoping to do the install in my garage. It sounds like this may not be possible.

 

Does this grinding of the bolts also pertain to the Gyrodines?

 

Just get a Dremel or a wheel grinder and shave a 1/16" of metal off of the tip from one bolt on each adapter. When installing, match the shaved bolt to the indentation in the wheel that has an extra small disk looking addition that protrudes out. You'll see exactly what I'm talking about when observing the rear of the wheel. When the installer dry mounted the wheel, he couldn't get a flush seat because of the protrusion I am referring to. I should have taken a picture for you guys but I was busy convincing the wheel guys not to say f%ck it and abandon the job. They seemed terrified working on an F in the first place, not to mention the need of doing grinding on it.

I can't speak to other wheels styles or for that matter other tornados because no one else has even bothered to mention this small detail. Perhaps after torquing, the bolt may indent into the wheel metal enough to get a solid seat - who knows. We just decided to shave off a bit to be safe. The downside for me is that moving forward, every time my wheels get removed, I have to remind the mechanic that the wheel needs to be remounted in only the one way with the shorter bolt lined up with the wheel indentation with the extra metal.

The two prior paragraphs may seem to make the project a PIA but in actuality, were basically adding 5 minutes to the job as long as you have a tool to shave or cut metal and maybe 15 minutes if you use a file.

To the DIY'ers attacking the project this weekend, please provide your feedback re: this issue.

 

Also curious on this. Was hoping for a no-grind driveway install.

 

Thanks for the photo - that has really helped me to visualise what it looks like. I have the same colour car too (not smoked out though).

My set have been released from customs this afternoon, so I'll phone up and pay the charges tomorrow and hopefully get them delivered Monday.

I have the forged storm wheels on mine so I will have to see if they have the same fitment issue. I've got a die grinder handy if needs be. I hope to get the chance next weekend.

 

Polaris, you have me concerned. I to have the tornado wheels but did not appreciate the need to cut down one of the bolts. The wheels did fit flush to the spacer after tightening and I've driven the car with no notice of shimmy. I am currently out of town to return Sunday. Before I do anything else, I am going to check the integrity of the rim to make sure none of the wheels studs have popped thru.

 

Anyone with the Gyrodynes will have no issue.


My concern for Polaris with cutting just one stud on each corner is that you will now and forever more have to ensure that each wheel is bolted on just right. A tire technician now only has a 25% chance of bolting the wheel on right.

 

Just 5% sir, Each wheel has a 20% chance of correct install (1 in 5) and then extrapolate that to 4 wheels! Have 100 idiots remove your wheels and 5 will get it right. All the more reason to get a jack or lift and do your own work.

Take a colored paint or wax pen and color code the shaved bolt and hole so the dummies can have a visual cue to go by.

As far as the actual need to do the grind specifically for the Tornado - When you mount the wheel onto the adapter, you can hear the adapter bolt "clink" against the back of the wheel in the one mentioned hole. It does seem that you can indeed mount the wheels without the modification as has been done by Dweter, however if you have a grinder, i'd just do the 5 minute mod anyway for your own piece of mind. No one needs to drive around, let alone in a sports car wondering if their wheels are fully seated. Believe me, I wanted this to be as easy of a DIY project as we can hope but hey, in real life, there are always unforseen things that rear their ugly heads. As intelligent folk here, there's no need to play around when it comes to wheel mounting, brakes, or ay other safety item, especially when the safe thing to do is as easy as a five minute fix.

Further, should you have the correct tool, the other preferred solution would be to simply grind the protrusion right off the wheel itself so one would no longer need to be concerned about locating the correct mounting point.

 

Yep, good idea, but even if you tell the shop, that's no guarantee it'll actually happen. I don't even trust them to get the lug nuts properly torqued.

On the other hand, it's no big deal to check it yourself, which I always do.

 

Could always grind all of the studs down, and never worry about it again.

 

Got mine look great - before I even get an F-type hahaha - perhaps I can make some wall art out of them ....

 

I've done that with a hand grinder. IT TOOK ME ALL DAY on the automotive grade hardened bolts! Much easier to spend a couple minutes on each wheel with a dremel tool to grind down the alloy tabs. (but you'll have to get your tires/wheels re-balanced ($5-10 each).

 

WTH. Were you using a 600 grit sanding disc?

 

The grinder/cut disk that the wheel shop used took literally 5 seconds per bolt. Cut through the bolt like soft butter.

To all that are concerned, even those who are DYI, the job is about as challenging as installing an air freshener tree.

Let's put it this way, I was quoted $40 to install the adapters which I was fine with. When we realized the mod needed to be done, the shop decided to add an extra $20 to my tab. I felt a bit like they were being opportunistic when they even bothered to write "Modified adapter lug bolts (4) to fit wheel - $20." on my receipt. It shouldn't have even been a line-item. Kinda like a tire shop charging you to Armor-All your new tires you just bought from them.