Group Buy: (4) Motorsport Tech hubcentric adapters/spacers
#41
updated list and Ted, do you have a size preference and are you flexible with 15mm or 17mm, anodized or not and if by any chance we decided to go 10mm (not saying we are, just asking the question). I posted a 15mm rear shot of unhingd ride from behind. I know there are a ton of others out there and a quick search for spacers may reveal some setups. I would love a single thread with all 15mm and 17mm photos.
1. watson6505 (15, 17)
2. itismejoshy (15, 17)
3. vettegood (17mm only) - Anodized Black- can anybody confirm if
trimming studs needed with 17mm? Jaguar cyclone wheels . Thanks
4. Donzi38ZXXX
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1. watson6505 (15, 17)
2. itismejoshy (15, 17)
3. vettegood (17mm only) - Anodized Black- can anybody confirm if
trimming studs needed with 17mm? Jaguar cyclone wheels . Thanks
4. Donzi38ZXXX
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#42
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#45
Then the 17mm adapters will be perfect for you. No need to mess with spacers, pockets, or long neck nuts unless you plan to run wider tires on the rear.
#47
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#49
So looking at Iron Mikes Photos (Thanks for those) the Car looks awesome! I was looking at my F-Type and was thinking maybe 17MM in front and 15MM in rear. I am running 295 in Rear and 255 in Front. 20" Gyrodynes also. I do not have a problem if I have to grind the Studs. Does 295 vs 305 Make Much difference in width to where I could go with 17MM all around? I DO NOT want rubbing and will not alter the Fenders. Thanks
#50
what Ive read is that with 305 and 17mm you cannot lower without rubbing. I would advise going with the same size all around, that is what is typically recommended to keep the suspension whole.
Donzi, I think the 15mm or 17mm adapters are equally safe as they will have plenty of stud, not need to change lugs, and they are hub/wheel centric. There is some debate on the 10mm and using the correct lugs and getting the correct torque. Because every tire is different, I would suspect some trial and error to get the 10mm to be perfect, get the right amount of 'turns' for the lug nuts, and the right lug nuts.
If I knew that cyclones and 15mm would not require trimming the studs that would 100% be my first choice. Moving to 17mm and not having to trim would be my second choice. If I have to trim either way, I would go with 15mm just to reduce the amount of debris kicking up to the side of my car slightly with the 2mm less overhang.
Hope this information and posts we are seeing help you make an informed decision.
Donzi, I think the 15mm or 17mm adapters are equally safe as they will have plenty of stud, not need to change lugs, and they are hub/wheel centric. There is some debate on the 10mm and using the correct lugs and getting the correct torque. Because every tire is different, I would suspect some trial and error to get the 10mm to be perfect, get the right amount of 'turns' for the lug nuts, and the right lug nuts.
If I knew that cyclones and 15mm would not require trimming the studs that would 100% be my first choice. Moving to 17mm and not having to trim would be my second choice. If I have to trim either way, I would go with 15mm just to reduce the amount of debris kicking up to the side of my car slightly with the 2mm less overhang.
Hope this information and posts we are seeing help you make an informed decision.
#52
I think you would need to paste your wheels, tire size, etc... for anyone to have a chance at knowing if anything else will be needed.
here are pros/cons on the spacer sizes:
10mm spacer: If you ever want to mount a 305 tire on the rear, you can't go with anymore than 10mm. However, to safely mount the wheels, you will need longer studs (a pain to install), or lug nuts with a neck that is 4-5 mm longer than stock. The 10mm will be very apparent.
15mm adapter: The maximum you can safely use with the stock 295 tires to guarantee that there is no tire interference with the fender. It does require grinding 2-4 mm off the end of each stud, but in no way compromises any functionality as the threads don't start until about 6mm down the stud.
17mm adapter: Appears to work with the stock 295 tires, but only under standard conditions. If you accidentally drop a rear wheel off a curb exiting a driveway, the tire could rub or worse, grab the fender and pull it out of shape.
here are pros/cons on the spacer sizes:
10mm spacer: If you ever want to mount a 305 tire on the rear, you can't go with anymore than 10mm. However, to safely mount the wheels, you will need longer studs (a pain to install), or lug nuts with a neck that is 4-5 mm longer than stock. The 10mm will be very apparent.
15mm adapter: The maximum you can safely use with the stock 295 tires to guarantee that there is no tire interference with the fender. It does require grinding 2-4 mm off the end of each stud, but in no way compromises any functionality as the threads don't start until about 6mm down the stud.
17mm adapter: Appears to work with the stock 295 tires, but only under standard conditions. If you accidentally drop a rear wheel off a curb exiting a driveway, the tire could rub or worse, grab the fender and pull it out of shape.
#53
I think to get the extended neck lugs to work properly with 10mm spacers, you would have to give the specs of the wheel thickness, neck length, and required pocket/recessing depth to Lenny to ensure it all jived together.
IF the stud lengths varies from stud to stud and wheel to wheel, you might not even get it to work with all the measurements provided above without making sure all studs are pre-measured to be the exact same length.
Seems like it could be more tricky that 15/17mm spacers and trimming studs
IF the stud lengths varies from stud to stud and wheel to wheel, you might not even get it to work with all the measurements provided above without making sure all studs are pre-measured to be the exact same length.
Seems like it could be more tricky that 15/17mm spacers and trimming studs
#54
Chester are you in?
unhingd and others can you comment on 10mm hubcentric spacers with longer lug nuts and no stud modifications? I wonder if the cost is about the same considering the cost of the longer lugs. You may be eliminated the effort to trim studs (which is a good thing) but at what cost (looks? Safety? Other?)
In in.
1. watson6505 (15, 17)
2. itismejoshy (15, 17)
3. vettegood (17, 15) - should confirm if trimming needed with 17mm
4.Donzi38ZXXX
5.Chester///M (15)
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unhingd and others can you comment on 10mm hubcentric spacers with longer lug nuts and no stud modifications? I wonder if the cost is about the same considering the cost of the longer lugs. You may be eliminated the effort to trim studs (which is a good thing) but at what cost (looks? Safety? Other?)
In in.
1. watson6505 (15, 17)
2. itismejoshy (15, 17)
3. vettegood (17, 15) - should confirm if trimming needed with 17mm
4.Donzi38ZXXX
5.Chester///M (15)
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I'm in for 15s
Last edited by Chester///M; 01-06-2018 at 03:00 PM.
#55
You're making the 10mm spacer issue more difficult than it is. You just need to ensure that the lug nut neck fits inside the spacer holes. If not, drill them out so that they do. Those holes should be oversized anyway (which they usually are), as you don't want the threads biting into the aluminum spacers.
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I'd consider this if I was sure I wouldn't have to grind anything or have clearance problems with my 19" Centrifuge and stock sized tires (but no longer P-Zeros). I can't lower the car, so there's that.