F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards

HELP - Car battery is dead

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Old Sep 8, 2020 | 07:54 PM
  #21  
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After purchase, we discovered that one of our fobs had the backup key missing. It is VIN-specific.

Took about 2 weeks to get the key (pre-COVID).
 
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Old Sep 8, 2020 | 08:07 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Carbuff2
After purchase, we discovered that one of our fobs had the backup key missing. It is VIN-specific.

Took about 2 weeks to get the key (pre-COVID).
Thanks. I am being told that it could take 1 week at the very least to about a month...
 

Last edited by AM007; Sep 8, 2020 at 09:58 PM.
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 04:16 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by EdG
I connect to the battery for jumps because that is where the voltage is supposed to come from. I assume (but could be wrong) that the terminals up front need to go to the truck area since that is where battery and electronic systems are based before going back up the then engine compartment to start the engine. I am trying to reduce voltage drop by connecting to the battery.
I'm sure Jaguar has taken any supposed voltage drop into account before providing the underhood terminals and stating that they are the way to jump start the car. But if you want to go against their procedure, that fine, it's your car. Hope you can get it sorted soon!
 
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 06:59 AM
  #24  
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There is more than enough current to compensate for what would amount to a negligible voltage drop at that distance. Which is virtually none. DC does a little better than AC anyway.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2020 | 06:31 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by scm
I'm sure Jaguar has taken any supposed voltage drop into account before providing the underhood terminals and stating that they are the way to jump start the car. But if you want to go against their procedure, that fine, it's your car. Hope you can get it sorted soon!
When dealing with a dead battery last year, I couldn't jump from the terminals under the hood with my wife's SUV. I tried the terminals under the hood first because that is what the manual said. I was going to have it towed to the dealer until the tow truck guy suggested connecting the jumper cables directly to the battery and I was able to jump it. He said that he has seen that happen in other cars with similar set up (terminals up front, battery in rear).

It is easy to connect to the battery once the truck is open. When battery is dead, connecting to the battery will maximize supplemental energy to the car when trying to start it. Is that why it started? I don't know. Maybe there is a problem with my terminals in the hood going to the electrical system but I do get some power to the system when connected because lights came on and I could open the trunk.

I am not worried about damage when connecting to the battery as every car I've ever seen connects to the battery for jumps if battery in the engine bay.

I am just providing my experience, your experience may differ.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2020 | 12:35 AM
  #26  
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Had a dead battery the other week because while wiring my dash cam I set it up to be always on.. oops. I was able to pop the hood with the manual key (couldn't imagine not having that.. sorry OP) and was able to revive it through the hood terminals.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2020 | 05:37 AM
  #27  
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I gave a jump to a coworker’s SUV yesterday. Used the front jump points, worked fine.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2020 | 05:50 PM
  #28  
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Regarding the key fob missing the back-up metal key, when I bought my 2014 XJ used, it only had one key fob. So, I ordered a second fob through my dealer mistakenly assuming it came with the metal key. The metal key was a separate purchase. So it depends on whether the two fobs that came with your car are the originals, or are replacements for fobs lost by previous owner(s).
 
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Old Sep 10, 2020 | 06:20 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by mikebaker3
Regarding the key fob missing the back-up metal key, when I bought my 2014 XJ used, it only had one key fob. So, I ordered a second fob through my dealer mistakenly assuming it came with the metal key. The metal key was a separate purchase. So it depends on whether the two fobs that came with your car are the originals, or are replacements for fobs lost by previous owner(s).
This is good to know and probably the case.
 
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Old Sep 11, 2020 | 07:03 AM
  #30  
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Could you get underneath and access the positive feed to the starter motor, connect your charger to that and earth, to charge the battery. Might even be able to do it by accessing the positive output from the alternator.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 08:15 AM
  #31  
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My 17 SVR died while completely locked after unplugging an AIM Solo from the OBD2.

Jaguar road assistance (AAA) wouldn’t unlock. I did a search for a locksmith, he came out and put a pump pillow on passenger side between the two windows. Was able to unlock the car via door handle. All took about 15 seconds after giving him the OK that it might cause damage — no damage occurred, was at sight forward after he started.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 09:24 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by jaglag
My 17 SVR died while completely locked after unplugging an AIM Solo from the OBD2.

Jaguar road assistance (AAA) wouldn’t unlock. I did a search for a locksmith, he came out and put a pump pillow on passenger side between the two windows. Was able to unlock the car via door handle. All took about 15 seconds after giving him the OK that it might cause damage — no damage occurred, was at sight forward after he started.
would the Damage be just to the window I would think? Did you have a convertible?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 02:48 PM
  #33  
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Ah missed the convertible descriptor. No, mine is a coupe. The damage speculated before we did it was either:

1. Damage to the rubber seal between the two windows.
2. Because no frame between the windows, it would possibly shatter the window.

Neither happened. As mentioned, was a 15-second job once I gave him the thumbs up.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 06:07 PM
  #34  
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You did check the battery in your key fob, right?
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 06:39 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Iconoclast
You did check the battery in your key fob, right?
Ahhh..good point! Mine just went out after 5 years.
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 07:21 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Iconoclast
You did check the battery in your key fob, right?
yes, I even replaced the battery on one of the fobs to make sure
 
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 07:26 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by jaglag
Ah missed the convertible descriptor. No, mine is a coupe. The damage speculated before we did it was either:

1. Damage to the rubber seal between the two windows.
2. Because no frame between the windows, it would possibly shatter the window.

Neither happened. As mentioned, was a 15-second job once I gave him the thumbs up.
i had a Locksmith come over today (the 2nd one) and they all don’t want to risk trying to open the door.... 😔

I just now have to patiently wait for someone to cut the key in the UK and then send it over. It can take weeks, months from what I hear. I did order another metal key (figured I should have one for both fobs) and another dealer put it on an “expedited” list, which possibly could bring the key in faster. 🤞🏽

I was hoping the dealer would have some sort of alternative.

my advice to everyone would be to make sure they have the metal emergency keys present in the key fobs, especially if they got a replacement key fob at some point. Keep those batteries charged and maybe doors unlocked if the car is parked in the garage.


 

Last edited by AM007; Sep 12, 2020 at 07:29 PM.
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 07:35 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by AM007
i had a Locksmith come over today (the 2nd one) and they all don’t want to risk trying to open the door.... 😔

I just now have to patiently wait for someone to cut the key in the UK and then send it over. It can take weeks, months from what I hear. I did order another metal key (figured I should have one for both fobs) and another dealer put it on an “expedited” list, which possibly could bring the key in faster. 🤞🏽

I was hoping the dealer would have some sort of alternative.

my advice to everyone would be to make sure they have the metal emergency keys present in the key fobs, especially if they got a replacement key fob at some point. Keep those batteries charged and maybe doors unlocked if the car is parked in the garage.

I would have thought that a competent locksmith could pick the emergency lock under the door handle (where the emergency key goes).
Or is that something they are not permitted to do?

Edit - I just had another brainwave - the old fashioned "feed a length of wire with a hook on the end past the window glass, snag the interior door handle and pull it open". I just checked it out on my car (in theory, no wire!) and it sure looks doable to me, especially with a plastic coated (to protect the edge of the window glass) coat hanger unbent to shape. Or will the interior door handle do nothing if the car is locked?
 

Last edited by OzXFR; Sep 12, 2020 at 07:44 PM.
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Old Sep 12, 2020 | 10:20 PM
  #39  
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There isn't supposed to be a way to pry open the hood from the outside. As you can imagine, that is basically an invitation for theft, as it allows access to not just the battery, but a whole slew of valuable things too. Your best and perhaps only option is getting that blade key.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2020 | 02:59 AM
  #40  
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@AM007 how much does a replacement metal key cost?

thanks to this thread I just checked my fobs and discovered only one contains a backup key...
 
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