HOW-TO: Injector Removal Step-By-Step
 

Figured it was time to return the favor and help the forum in return for the years of assistance i have received. For those of you who haven't had any Injection failures, you will eventually. Some of the XK and XJ owners on here have reported 2-3 full sets of injectors within a 150k miles lifetime. Many horror stories on here and the interweb about the difficulties of changing out the GDI Injectors on our AJ motors. Job runs 2k-3k at normal dealer pricing (there are MANY things that can cause misfires, if your not 100% sure it is an injector do yourself a favor and give Mike a call at Scarborough Jaguar/Land Rover he will take care of you, worth the drive if your not local!) the JLR book says all 4 injectors and I believe 8 or 10 hrs labor (correct me if anyone knows exactly) replacing one whole bank. The entire procedure can be done in under 3hrs and for around $500 in parts/tools.

Tools you WILL need:
Jaguar 3.0 and 5.0 injector tool
JLR9899 Injector Seal Tool $50 Req to resize the Teflon seals (tool isn't necessary if you buy 4 NEW injectors)
TIME SAVER $10 Trust me on this, its worth the $10
Basic standard mechanic tools.

Parts:
BOSCH C2D45736 Injector $95 x4 with a LIFETIME WARRENTY - Dont get them at JLR ($395ea)
Teflon Seal only $10 will also need the top seal on the rail but that is a standard Viton o-ring
JLR Seal/Clip KIT $30 Comes with everything needed. Teflon seal, Top o-ring and a new one time use clip

Reference Docs:
Fuel Pressure Release
Jaguar Repair Manual - LH/RH Injector Removal Procedure
Entire Jag F-Type Repair Manual (500MB)

First off you will need to determine what bank (side) of you engine is misfiring, there are many ways to determine this but the easiest will be watching the misfire live data on any scanner or SDD. You can also usually tell just by the OBDII codes present, they will USUALLY correspond to one bank. ALSO, its usually only one injector malfunctioning but it is recommended while your in that far to do all 4 as they will all need to be removed requiring all new seals at $30 per injector (see above) your not replacing (plus the tool mentioned above $50), and as i will attest once one fails the rest are right behind it.

Once you have nailed down the side of the engine you are going to be replacing the injectors on the fun begins,https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...b10d600997.jpg


First remove the heat shielding (YELLOW ARROWS), that corresponds to the side of the engine your replacing injectors on, this piece of plastic is a pain to remove and will require you to unhook the inter cooler feed lines (BLUE ARROWS). Simple squeeze clips but have a rag ready to collect a little antifreeze that will run out, i suggest letting the car cool and remove the coolant reservoir cap to allow the pressure to release prior to unhooking these lines. If doing the drivers side, bank 2, also remove the oil filler cap. next will be some low pressure fuel lines (GREEN ARROWS) that are in the way but can be re-positioned and or unhooked (once you have released the pressure from the fuel rail or the vehicle has sat for a days), have a rag ready also. Unhook all wires from the coil packs/injectors,fuel lines.

Ok, now with the heat shield out of the way you can see that its fairly wide open and easy to access the plugs and the high pressure fuel lines/rail. Next will be removing the coil packs, this is the hardest part of this of entire job IMO. The torx head bolts (T25 or T30 i believe) that hold the coils on are tight against the shock tower. This is where the $10 TIME SAVER comes into play, i have an entire shop of tools, 4 full toolboxes and this is the easiest method i have found. use the yellow tool from the kindergarten looking HF tool set 68834 fashion it like the picture below with the torx firmly held in the ratchet with some tape on the bit.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...c87bd71eaf.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...06c0e30489.jpg


Next you will need to remove all 4 (or 3) torx from the coil packs, once complete work them out of the head and label them with a marker as to what cylinder they came from. Also at some point you will need to disconnect the entire (plastic) wiring tray that runs across the fuel rail area, 3 clips will release and allow the electrical conduit to be moved up and out of the way after some wrestling and unplugging various sensors on the front of the engine to allow more slack in the wiring. Cylinder and injector numbering reference below:


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...547c9a0ca8.jpg


Next will be the HP fuel line that runs across the front of the engine (RED ARROW ABOVE), this is more T30 torx and its only necessary to remove the topside visible ones, as to allow enough room to remove the fuel rail. Now loosen the nut the on the HP fuel line (BROWN ARROW) that attaches to the fuel rail, slowly. There is a chance that this rail is still under 1000psi plus and could cause harm to your fingers, never seen this but i have read about it.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...473236ec65.jpg

From here you will need to remove the 4 (or 3) fuel rail bolts (WHITE ARROWS) and carefully/evenly pull the fuel rail off the injectors.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...519fb68c4b.jpg

THE PART WE HAVE ALL BEEN WAITING FOR!
Removing the injectors. Remove the clips from the tops of the injectors, and if your planning on reinstalling the injector each clip can only be reused on the same injector so don't mix them up. Firmly apply the injector tool around the top of each injector making sure its fully seated on the injector and the tool is locked on.
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...8ca80e000a.jpg
Now lightly slid the hammer on the tool against the nut increasing force as you hammer it out. ALL, every single injector in my engine has come out with 10-20 slides of the hammer. Some people have said they can't get them out and end up using bigger tools, DONT! i have spoken with a few JLR techs who all have said it may take 50-100 slides but they will come out. Also a forum member suggested a Liqiu Moly Product that will make this easier if they are stuck, i have no experience with this as i didn't need it. It has also been said that injectors on engines that are rev'd high often and under more load often (beat on lol) the injectors will come out easier.

Here is a pictures of my injector that had failed, notice the carbon build up. This is a real problem for this and any GDI engine, FOLKS GET A CAN OF BG44K! USE IT REGULARLY! there is carbon all over the interior of this engine, injectors, cylinders, intake valves(not that this will help here), ETC.
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...01a8730f6d.jpg

Installing the New injectors is simple, if you have bought new ones like below, then no need to worry about the teflon seals and replacing the top o-rings. If you didn't buy all 4 there are plenty of videos on how to install the seal with the tool listed above.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...dcdfe8f715.jpg

It is very important to remove all carbon buildup within the injector holes in the head, i used some carbon cleaning spray and a round wire brush, took some time but i got the holes spotless. it is hard to see the carbon buildup in the holes but use your camera phone or if you have an inspection scope. If not done correctly the new injectors will leak fuel, and it will fall on the hot manifolds causing fire. DONT PUT ANY LUBE/GREASE ON THE TEFLON SEALS! but do on the o-rings at the top of the injector.

Push the injectors down into the hole firmly until they bottom out, push all 4 (or 3) in and push the fuel rail lightly on top for now. This is where it gets tricky, you must align all the injectors strait and push down the rail all at once without "wiggling" it around as this will damage the teflon seals causing leaks. just go slow and be careful, if your unsure ford/jlr sells injector alignment pins (cheap cheap under $10) that will aid in installation.

Once the rail in down install the bolts into the hole and tight from the front of the engine back towards the fire wall.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...91081c4c3d.png

Re-attach the HP fuel line and install the Torxs holding it to the front of the engine.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...4ecbd368c1.png

Install the coil packs, on the correct cylinders.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...5a8839cb2a.png

hook up the electrical connectors on the injectors and the coils reconnect fuel lines and test fire the engine. if all goes as planned it will clear up after a few seconds and run like it did before the injector failure. This looks like alot of work but its really not. Go slow and take pictures so you can get everything back in place when you re-assemble.

GOOD LUCK AND I HOPE THIS HELPS.

Thanks for the great write up! With the right tools this seems like most moderately experienced shade tree mechanics can handle this. Once again, dealer pricing seems way out of line with the amount of effort involved.

Yes, honestly if you have done this before or like me had to to it twice (long story) it can be done in under 2hrs if your familiar with the steps. I would rate this at about a 4 out 10 for shade tree mechanic difficulty.

So the new injector are just installed using hand pressure? Also, are the clips self explanatory (just look at them and you know what to do? Great write up by the way. I'm sure many on the forum will appreciate the help this post provides.

thanks! yes you push them in and the fuel rail pushes them in 100% when you tighten the bolt to spec. The clips only fit on one way like in the picture.

Excellent write-up. Many thanks!

+1.

While you are in there and especially as you have removed the coil packs I reckon it would be a good time to also replace the spark plugs.
Definitely if you are doing all 6 or 8 injectors, not so sure if you are only doing one side.

Sorry you had to go through this, Josh, but thanks for sharing the knowledge. Ran my first can of BG44K through last month, just before the annual oil change.

My dealer adds a can of 44K to the gas and a can of MOA to the oil at every annual service. Extra cost, of course, but for not much more than I would have to pay for the BG cans myself.

Running mine as well !

Sooo jealous, simply impossible to get 44K or MOA here in Oz!

Edit - hold that thought - I may have found an Oz Fleabay seller and best of all they are only 10 miles down the road from me.
Maybe I can drop in and pick up a load of BG stuff and pay zero postage, win win!

Awesome write up!
-Regarding using BG44k - Is this similar to Techron Complete fuel system cleaner? have used that in my BMW's every oil change.
-is this included in the dealer-offered 'fuel system cleanse' services?

From my research it's similar and better (the best), and I believe it is exactly what the dealers use for the "fuel system cleanse" service, I have seen posted on-line dealer invoices for a routine service showing they used BG 44K. And they also charge a packet for the pleasure, save yourself some cash and buy it / add it yourself.

I just recently replaced all 8 injectors. They were all seized to the head. No amount of slide hammering or letting them soak even budged them. The only thing that got them out was connecting my injector puller to my cherry picker and yanking them out. My car lifted off the jack stands a couple mm when I pulled each out, couldn't believe my eyes. Anyway, good writeup. Before I put them back in, I cleaned out the holes very thoroughly and put a little bit of high heat antisieze on the tips of the injectors for it to never happen again. And like someone else stated, it's a great time to change plugs as well.

Success!!!
Dropped into the seller's place of business (tyre shop & BG distributor) and got two tins of MOA, two tins of 44K and a tin of EPR ("Engine Performance Restoration" - fancy name for oil flush) for cheap, around half the normal on-line price even if I could get them on-line.
All set now for an oil and filter change next week and I know where to go to get more of these goodies.

OzXFR I am also in AUS, would you be kind enough to post a link of the AUS EBay seller or a company name please. I can only find US sellers.

Here's the ad I found which led me to the seller: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BG-MOA-1...frcectupt=true
If you then go to their eBay shop (bgproductsales) you will see a handful of ads for a few BG products but not including 44K and nowhere near the whole range, but they do stock the whole range.
Send them a message on eBay via that ad (that's what I did) and see how you go.
They are at Churchill Tyres 424 Churchill Rd Kilburn (a suburb of Adelaide).

Vid of the actual injector removal:

wow, thanks for sharing

I finally got around to doing this for the driver's side bank on my 2012 XF, and thought I'd post some post-repair observations for those who might be following these directions. I had received a 'restricted performance' intervention, and smelled a massive amount of gas upon returning to my garage. After reading the codes and looking through the forums, I determined the fuel injectors needed replacing.

First off, I have to say, the most seductive thing on the web these days isn't porn, it's DIY threads/videos like these that make things look easy. ;-)

Some things that ended up being different/more difficult than the original posting.
-The rubber heat shielding was beyond a pain to get out. I don't know how I eventually totally freed it, but that thing is put in there ridiculously tight. Don't feel there was any need/reason to have it so wedged in there, but unlodging the back bottom of it caused me to lose my religion.
-The fuel rail would not come off easily. I thought somehow it was still attached to something when I first tried, so I tried calling yourmechanic.com to have them give it a try. The guy came over, tried a few things, and gave up. After much internal debating, I finally just broke down and started using a big screwdriver to loosen it. Once I finally saw it start moving, I continued on slowly. It eventually released after much coercion.
-The first three injectors came out just fine with the Utool. The last one was buried just deep enough that the tool wouldn't quite fit around it correctly. After, once again, much coercion and cursing, it was finally removed. Not fun.
-After the problems removing the fuel rail, I thought reinsertion was going to be a similar bear. I tried doing a test run by trying to slide a single injector into its respective location, but it didn't seem to work. However, after putting all new injectors in, the rail slid on super easily. Never would've expected it after all the hell it gave me to remove it.

After placing everything back together, ran for a couple days and received an MIL. :-( Read out the code, came back to the forums, where someone indicated they found one of the sensors not fully attached. Sure enough, somehow I hadn't clipped in one of the cylinder sensors. Everything's been golden since. Including some pics of the removed injectors just for fun. Not sure which one failed, since they all looked like crud.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...0e6db7466c.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...d0e0e47b82.jpg

Thanks for this. I have a cylinder 1 misfire and might as well replace the bank.

If I'm doing that, do I only need to buy the tools and the injector?

Thanks Silverstones!
For bringing this thread back from the dead.
I have run out of BG products and need some more (especially the 44K) but for the life of me I couldn't remember where I got them last time just over a year ago, and all the details I need are in my previous posts in this thread.

This set is a bit pricy, but it is useful for many other tight applications, and the long , slender handle works very well for coil bolts.

https://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.co...CABEgKHAPD_BwE

Also, is there a reason to get new injectors or use this service instead?

https://www.injectorrx.com

Hi

Great write up, Thanks for the info. I do have a question. Is there a way to avoid injector problems? If you use recommended fuel and fuel system cleaner like BK 44 on a regular basis can this be avoided
altogether?

The other question I have BK 44 is expensive and I plan on using it once a year is there another product close to that I can use more frequently to keep on top of fuel system cleaning?
I would like others to chime in on products they feel might be reputable...and really works.

Look for products with the most PEA. (No, I'm not telling you which veggies to eat...that's your Mom's job.) :icon_rolleyes: :icon_crackup:


Here's an article I found
https://utilitywallet.com/best-fuel-injector-cleaners/

Don't know if these products are available where @OzXFR hangs out...

Thanks for the link.
I don't recall ever seeing any of those products "on the shelf" at the four or five auto parts stores I have been to in Adelaide. Maybe the Lucas but def not the rest.
Anyway, I bought three tins of BG44K from my "supplier" yesterday and they are getting two cans of the CRC intake valve cleaner for me.
No-one but no-one in Oz sells BG44K on Fleabay, and the last time I bought some from the US the sale was reversed coz they can't ship this type of fluid OS (something to do with dangerous/hazardous/flammable chemical malarkey). I would guess the same applies to all the products at your link.
So as I said earlier I was very lucky to find a local supplier just 10 km down the road (so no postage cost) and at a good price.

If you can get all the injectors out without damaging them, then that might be an interesting way to go.
Looks like you'd save about $50-60 per injector before shipping costs. I don't know about reusing the gaskets
or finding new ones. I'd say to first remove the injectors, then make the call. I was unable to remove the one
closest to the firewall without destroying it. The other 3 probably could've been replaced, but I don't know if I
would've wanted to chance it.

As a side note, my new ones have been running great. I only replaced one bank, but did a BG 44K flush right
after install for the non-replaced side. Hopefully they'll hold out. Good luck with the replacement.

So I'm replacing the passenger side injectors. I got as far as the coil packs before the lack of space gave me pause.

Is this really possible on an 8 cyl? My hand can barely reach in that far back to unplug the coilpack, much less use any kind of tool with leverage

The passenger side is the Easy side :) Try getting the E Z Red socket set I recommended earlier and the coil bolts will be easier to remove.

I am actually on x351 XJ platform. Looks like the electrical box would somehow need to come out, the F type looks much more open. I'm not sure as the workshop manual only can be found for the diesel XJ not the 5.0 SC.

I was able to do it on the driver's side of a 2012 XF 5.0. That last one by the firewall is a bear. I had to remove some of the firewall to get the plastic shield out. Once I did that, it became easier, but by no means easy. The puller tool wouldn't fit snugly on the injector, so I ended up pulling it out with only partial grip. The remnants of that injector are shown in a photo earlier in the thread.

If you can spread the job over several days, it helps. I would get tired, take a break, then go back to it. It can be done, but definitely not as easy as depicted early in the thread.

I just got my diagnoses from the local dealer For my 2014 SV8 . It needs injectors and plugs to correct a misfire problem. Total estimate? Well, $6234! That is crazy! That’s about 10 months of car payments!

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...8bb9b5cd2e.png

If you clean the carbon buildup in the injector port, wouldn’t that fall down on the piston? Is there a possibility of scoring the piston or cylinder wall? $800-$900 vs $6200 for the dealer service. I think I will invest a day or 2 and save $5300

yes im sure it could but id be more worried about it scoring the valve seats if it got caught, most of the injector carbon comes outs with the injector on the tip.

Sorry to retieve old thread, I have 2011 XKR 70k miles and seems like i may have the same issue with bad injectors, was driving on highway and got blinking check engine light, with reduced performance message, took a exit ramp stopped on red light and when light turned green tried to give little gas to pull over to the side got white/gray smoke from exhaust and little knock from the engine. stopped the car truned off the engine. car smelled like gas... run code scanner and got missfire on one side of clinders.

cleared codes, called towing, tow guy tried to start the engine but it wouldnt start, it knocked for few seconds and would not start... when i opened the oil cap i could smell fuel in the oil

Is it safe to say that i need to replace injectors??? is it normal that engine would not event start? or the cylinders seized because of fuel in oil and my engine is gone?

I doubt you've ruined the engine. I limped mine home after having the issue, and after I replaced the injectors and changed the oil, everything worked fine. I wouldn't read anything into the engine not starting either. I'd just change the injectors and oil, then diagnose any further issues at that point.

I have XKR do I need to remove supercharger in order to access fuel injectors?

This forum is for the X152 (F-Type).

If your X150 has the AJ133S, there is no need to remove the supercharger if the injectors need to be removed.