UPDATE:
Thank you for all the help:


After working on this for few days. I managed to replace 4 injectors and 4 spark plugs on drivers side of the engine, What a major PITA, with wire loom getting in the way all the time. It was my first engine work project before I only replaced car stereos and bulbs in cars .... :D

So car started right away , there were clouds of smoke coming out from exhaust , and slight griding noise from the engine, I had it running in a garage for maybe 1 minute and shut down because of the smoke..... then I scanned the codes, and got no codes no misfire, but there are couple things that worried me in that 1 minute of running the engine,:
the white smoke, I know that when my car broke down it puffed a white smoke, and then it smelled like gas, i noticed gas smell in the OIL ... I wonder if there are still letfovers of old oil in the engine, I extract the old oil using a pump and replaced the oil filter but I'm sure that some of it still was left in the engine..
Slight grinding noise.... not sure if this will go away after some time , or maybe because there was fuel in oil something happened with the inside of the engine...

thoughts?
video below:

The white smoke is some of the excess fuel and water vapour coming out. I couldn't really hear any grinding noises from the engine in the video. Perhaps letting the engine run outdoors for a few minutes will allow the white smoke to dissipate.

Did you resize the Teflon seals on the new injectors with the special tool prior to installing them?

@Peterek82, it appears you have two threads going on this issue.

In case it wasn't mentioned elsewhere, change the engine oil and filter prior to operating the vehicle for any length of time to avoid possible damage to the rod and main bearings.

yup, I already changed oil and filter before I started the car and will change it again to flush any leftover fuel .. thanks for all your comments and help I really appreciate it :)

Good write up. I just got an quote from the dealer that they want $2,100+ tax to replace 1 injector and $3,168 + tax to replace all four injector on the same bank.

It's false economy to replace only one injector on either bank. What is the issue with the engine?

What can I do to get the injector out???? :(((((((((((((((((

Its broke now... whats left is in the head... Next to it is one that we got out

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...da94b86ae5.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...9222ed34dd.jpg

If I order 8 injectors from the link provided do i still need to buy the seal/clip kit?
If so do i need to buy 8 of these kits? https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...elw/12109118-P

To replace the injectors, you need to use the special tool for resizing the Teflon seals at the tip of each injector, and install new retaining clips. If you reuse the retaining clips, there is a possibility of compression leaks around the injector tip.

Here a typical listing of the seal and retaining clip kit for an AJ133:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/26542827881...Bk9SR4T3qLunYQ

Prior to attempting to remove the injectors from the cylinder head, it's a good idea to spray around the injector bores with a penetrating solvent to avoid having one snap as is the case above.

It's also not uncommon for some injectors to require over one hundred strokes with the slide hammer to get them to dislodge from the head.

See this recent vid from Samcrac:
Removing the fuel injectors from a Range Rover - same AJ133 SC as our F-Types.
Spoiler alert - his trick was to use an engine hoist and ratchet straps with the factory injector removal tool.

Impossible to get the injectors out of a cold engine ? The engines I've had to do this on have always been days cold. and I've never had more than 50 pulls on the tool.
Using an engine hoist to pull the rail? I just pull a little here and a little there and it eventually pops off. All mine have been on Jaguars.

We have also been told that a warm engine can help getting them free. It has been suggested to that cars that have been driven hard will also release the injectors easier.
Will it help? I don't know.
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Thanks for the write up, attempting to do both sides, the offset ratchet trick is definitely a life saver, the coil pack bolts near the fire wall will be impossible to remove without it. I stripped one of them pretty badly and it was quite rusted when finally removed, any suggestion on how to clean the thread on the block?


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...779e2ca9c.jpeg


pulled all coil packs out without much fuss, I’m ready to go on the next step but 2 things are on the way:


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...465a95c2f.jpeg
How do you remove this fitting? Can’t get to the fuel line bolt without removing this.




https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...21ce48863.jpeg
How does the plastic piece holding wires come out at the rear near fire wall? I have undone the 3 clips and the rear is not budging. This is the side with oil filler cap.




thanks!


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also found where the coolant went, and possibly the cause for the rusted bolt and possibly my misfire issue??

Might as well let a shop handle it at this point…😭


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...a20b015d7.jpeg

To remove the plastic pipe, squeeze the serrated part of the clip at 3 and 9 oclock and lift off. If that doesn't release it, take two pocket flat blade screwdrivers and insert at
12 and 6 oclock, very gently, until the clip is released. Careful, you can break the plastic clip if forced.

Thanks! will try the screw drivers, it did not release with the squeeze.

I can't tell from the picture? Where do you think it's leaking coolant?
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https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...7fb91733f.jpeg
US passenger side near windshield. Is this not dried coolant? I’m not sure if this is the source, i will monitor it once i put things back on, hopefully today. This spot is also coincidentally the closest to the only rusted ignition coil hold down bolt.
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...e11214031.jpeg
The other side is clean.





also some ignition coil boot/seal thing came out like this, is it normal?

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...9d0d8adfd.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...e81ed3cc6.jpeg
Some of them are fine.

Tedious tedious tedious $&!&?&&! work..

how did people get the last fuel injectors connector out with the shock tower brace in place??? Practically 0 room to put my fingers in let alone squeezing the release trigger at the same time, a flat head and pliers worked wonders for the other 3.

The fuel rail is also not coming out, any tips? I have the 4 bolts loose and disconnected the fuel lines, it’s budging when i pull it straight up but it refuses to let go?



arghhgggggg

edit:

last connector came out, reverse pliers to the rescue, but fuel rail still refuse to come out, seems fused on the windshield side, am i missing anything?


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...cf546418d.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...2367d5f16.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.jag...215d6f0d5.jpeg
Is this thing supposed to be disconnected? It’ss very thin hex nut at the stuck end of the fuel rail.