So after my driver's motor mount failed and caused my inner cv axle boot to rip(engine flexes so high that the axle hits the tunnel on top, ripping boot). I decided to take matters into my own hands and create my own motor mount. Since there aren't any aftermarket mounts and the fact this ripped while being stock and I plan on modding my car, there's no way another stocker would last long. I did this to driver's side(left side) only as that's the problem child. If the passenger side fails, I will make another. So when this failed, I happened to be changing mounts in my c6 corvette. To my surprise, the vette's mount seemed like it could work with some modification to the original jag mount. The vette's mounts I have are the vulcan mounts made by AMT. These are a very robust mount and almost solid FYI. You can read more about them on their site.

I scribed right where my pen is pointing. Where the mount meets the base. Drain all fluid in mount and cut the ring on both sides. The sides will break off. After that gut the mount completely until only the bottom dish is left. Now grind the base portion down to where your scribe is. There is also a small ring at the bottom of the base that is slightly raised. I ground this smooth as well.

After cleaning the modified base I drilled a hole into the center of where the new mount bolt will go through. I believe this was .480\"-.483"(measure new bolt just in case). The new bolt is bigger than stock so you will have to drill the plate attached to the motor as well. I drilled my plate in car from top as I did not remove it when replacing mount.

I then put a small amount of self leveling urethane at the bottom of original mount base for sealing purposes. Found some billet aluminum round stock on ebay that was almost the exact size I needed. All I had to do was drill the center hole(went .488\"-.490" I believe as it's basically just a spacer, you could also go a little bigger). The aluminum dimensions are 2.5" diameter x .75" long. After that's done, I filled the outer space ring with some high temp sealant for keeping dirt/dust out etc..

Finished product of the new modifed mount!

Bottom bolt was not tightened yet. But it fits!

Sealant applied with small bolt to compress everything until it cures enough. I didn't completely let it cure as I wanted to get the mount on and torqued so it could cure in it's final position.

Final install and torqued. This mount gets torqued to 125 ft lbs. I went to 130 as I had extensions and a swivel attached. I have drove 4 full tanks of gas and have launched it etc, mount is holding great. There is a little more vibration(keep that in mind), but it's hardly noticeable. The speakers vibrate more lol. Hopefully this helps someone else and sorry I didn't take more pics, I was caught up in the work.

 

2nd pic from bottom somehow jumped down, so order is a little off. Not sure how that happened, but oh well.

 

Update on this and a correction. The mount bolt torques are 25 ft lbs and 30 ft lbs for above picture caption NOT 125 etc... that would be an insane mount of torque. I've now driven the car over 20k miles(yes I drive that much) and everything is flawless still with the mount. Hard launches and lots of 1st gear rips and absolutely zero problems. 👍

 

Aside from the CV boot ripping, were there any other signs the engine mount was/had failed?

Your engine mount solutions looks very nice and seems like it's working very well! Kudos

 

Thanks! So in my situation, I didn't have any other signs, and the only reason I checked the cv was from hearing a clunking sound with other metallic grinding on harder acceleration. And this was all from the axle hitting the upper tunnel. During easy driving it won't hit and so I didn't hear the sound, only when the motor was flexing enough is when I heard the noise. I turned the steering wheel all the way to the right or left(think it was left) and it gives just enough space to see the boot ripped with grease everywhere. If you catch it in time, you should just be able to replace the mount and re-pack the boot, saving you 1k+ dollars for another axle. Unfortunately I didn't, so had to replace the axle. The axle situation seems to be only happening to awd models from what I have researched.

 

Thank you for your feedback.