Just picked up a 2017 F-Type R yesterday with 12K miles on it from a Jag dealer 360 miles away from my home. Carfax read clean and the only questionable item on the CPO checklist was the rear brake pads were at 9mm and fronts at 11mm. I already posted another thread asking if this was normal as i've never heard of rears wearing faster. The dealer told me this is common for these cars?
This morning I notice this misalignment on the drivers door. Operation is fine and rest lines up fine. I inspected the underside of the car on a lift before receiving and it honestly looked like a brand new car. Almost spotless! Same goes for rest of car. So far everything else looks and performs great as well. I've sent an email to the dealer and waiting response. I think anyone that has purchased a pre-owned worries about being sold a bad car. Or am I just being paranoid?

 

I can speak to the mis-aligned door. That is common and easily remedied. Sometimes a mis-aligned door is just that, nothing more.

 

The misalignment between the door bottom and skirt is so common as to be "normal"...and with regard to the brakes:. The rear pads wearing faster than the front is also "normal" (it was the case also with the XK) and does not indicate any fault.

 

There's another common misalignment spot that frustrates people but if you haven't noticed, maybe you're better off not looking for it...

 

I didn't have the door alignment issue, but as noted, it's common enough that I'm aware of it from here.

The "Torque Vectoring by Braking" could account for the rear brake wear. It uses rear braking to control attitude in some situations. In any case, the difference between 11 and 9 is not much and there's still plenty of meat there. You may end up replacing them before they wear out anyway, once you see how much dust the stock pads generate.

 

What is the "easy" fix for the door? Or better off left to the local Jag service dept?

 

On the door jamb of each door you will see the door latch retainer, sort of U-shaped with a dent in the middle.
Each one is held on with two Torx T40 bolts.
Loosen those two bolts off a bit, not a lot, just enough so as you can move the retainer up/down in/out a mm or so.
Then push the retainer in (towards the seat) about 2 mm then tighten the bolts up and test.
Pushing the retainer in should bring the bottom edge of the door shut in closer to the panel.
This worked for me but of course YMMV.
You may have to play around with moving the retainer in and out a couple of tenths of a mm at a time to get the best possible fit, and even then you may not achieve perfection.
I suggest you also mark the edges of the retainer (eg with a felt tip pen) before you start so you can set it back to how it was originally if you need to.

 

All my life I knew that front brake pads wore faster than rears. That is, until I got the Jag. With all the braking intelligence, the rears often wear faster.

 

My lower edge of both doors is proud of the sill. The door edges are flush though. Brought it to dealer after early ownership from new. Was told "normal" Door edges could be tighter possibly on yours, but that is not gospel.

 

Makes sense. Thanks.
I took a quick look and will get more into it tomorrow. But at first glance it seems the flat head bolts sit in countersunk holes in the retainer. So unless its a through-hole with a nut plate on back, it will go back to center as soon as it's re-tightened. No?
I see how the retainer is closer to the bottom 1/3 of the door (where the misalignment is), but would making the adjustment as recommended pull the whole door in creating a misalignment on top? Not trying to question your experience, I just tend to try and think things through before picking up a wrench and getting myself into trouble.

 

No. It's designed to be adjustable, and will stay where it's tightened.

 

+1.
Mine definitely stayed where I moved it to and didn't "spring back".
I suspect there is a mounting plate behind which moves with the retainer.

 

Welcome to the club! I was too super nervous but i've learned to live with a lot of the gotchas of this car!

 

The front brake pads do most of the stopping work. However, back in the day, the place where I worked had a fleet of Renault Alliance cars. The rear brake shoes always wore out before the front pads. Go figure. Could have been an adjustment
issue, faulty materials or just plain stupid engineering, who knows. But it happens. If it's a CPO they are giving you some sort of warranty anyway.

 

Happy Thanksgiving to all and thanks for the suggestions.
Tried it earlier today. End result is the vertical seam along back edge of door and top horizontal body line gets thrown off a little, with minimal effect to the bottom. Think I'll take it by a body shop and see what they say. I've heard aligning doors can be a bit of an art.

 

The alignment issue is not with the door - it is with the skirt below which needs to be massaged outward a bit. Your door was probably perfectly aligned with the rear fender, right? It is very, very common - almost the rule, that there is a slight misalignment at the door/skirt area. After examining many, many of these cars I came to the conclusion that it was virtually "normal" if not desirable. It is a non-issue on dark colours but more noticeable on white and silver.

 

just took my 2018 F-type 400 Sport in for its annual maintenance. Has 11,800 miles. Front pads at 10mm, rear pads at 8mm. This car has been nothing short of perfect. ENJOY.

 

The panel I have marked as skirt? I notice screws holding the ground effects in place, but are you saying the Skirt has screws under sill plate and under car that can be adjusted?

 

Yes, there is some adjustment for the skirt, apparently. I have not needed or felt the need to do this on my BRG car but I think there was a tgread on this some time ago.

 

So I know these cars have some alignment issues, and that from what I've heard is fairly normal, but don't hesitate on judging the dealer, my CPO 16 S was involved in a collision that the dealer knew about, I mean they were the ones that did the repair ffs, LOL, and never reported it to carfax, and sold me the car has perfect never having been in any accident or any paint work done, even going as far as showing me a chip in the rear decklid that was never repaired cause the PO was so paranoid about doing any "paint work/body work". they also told me CPO covered the same things as factory warranty besides interior trim pieces, imagine my surprise when my exhaust valves started rattling last week and they told me I needs to fork over 4 grand for a new exhaust system. Moral of the story, do not trust dealers, always do your due diligence and if they did do something wrong, do not let it go, fight it.