So I have done some research and batteries seems to be an issue I figured would pop up in the future. Drove the car home from CA and ran good. Car only has 15K so it sat alot.
Wife of previous owner drove and she has been out of the country alot in the last year. Car sits I am sure. Drove it out to the lake the other day to see how she does on the twisties
on my road. Ran fantastic. One thing I noticed that was not working was the illuminated door sills.

2 day later the battery is totally dead! Maybe an interior light was left on or the door slightly open? Didn't see a light on but can't rule it out either. OK read up on jumping from the front
and not the rear battery. Read there is two actually but hatch is latched and can't get it open yet. I have Smart Charger/Starter 12V/6V 3Amp Mat., 5Amp Charge, 20Amp Fast charge,
75Amp start. Hooked it up the front passenger terminals and set it on 5 Amp and she fires up but is only pushing 6V to the system. Doesn't do much after an hour so I try 20 Amp and 75Amp.
Still showing only sending 6 VOLTS. 20Am does nothing but 75Amp starter setting lights up the car. Everything comes on so I try to fire it up. It can not read the key. Say to put it down low near the sensor
but it does not see it. Ok Progress. I turn it back down to 5 Amp and leave it for a few hours and doesn't seem better. Running just 6 volts it says battery 100% but it is still running and the auto shut off is not triggered. I try 75Amp start again- car lights up but does not see key again. Funny thing now the Illuminated door sills are lit up and working!

Sounds to me like the battery might have been going. I will leave it on 5 Amp over night. With enough juice will it be able to read the key again or will it need to be reprogrammed. Why only the 6 Volt charge? I might get a plain 12 Volt charger to see if does any different. If I can get it fired up I can get it to the dealer but I hear they want like $800 for a battery. Car still has CPO warranty and battery would not be covered. My Maserati I can change the rear battery myself and it is easy. Not the Jag. Any help or advise would be appreciated.

 

I'd definitely consider getting the battery changed. I think many of the 2016s are going to need a fresh battery fairly soon, mostly because of age.

My 2016 had a flat battery from the OBD port disconnect issue about 7 or 8 months ago after getting a state inspection. It took a while at the dealer to get it fully charged - and I expect they have a powerful charger.

I sourced a new battery from Advance Auto Parts -

DieHard Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size H8, 900 CCA

it was about $220 or so. Unfortunately, even though they offer free installation, when I picked it up the rep didn't want to touch the F type. I brought it into the JLR dealer and they charged me for the install, but I guess it was a "corkage fee" of sorts. Still potentially cheaper than the JLR dealer quote, and certainly less than $800.

 

Yes, you almost certainly need a bew battery but note this: the new battery MUST be fully charged before or at installation. Otherwise you will eventually have random electrical issues. The best thing you can do is to fit a CTEK battery minder permanently - the easy instruction are in several threads here. After that it is simply a matter of taking 3 seconds to connect or disconnect it whever the car is not in use. Your Jag will thank you and you will have no further problems. Connection at the front (that is, underhood) points sometimes seem to be problematic. Connections made near the battery work well all the time.
At this point, with your battery partially charged, you should be able to access the trunk area, no?
if you like, you can go to your Maserati dealer and get the Maserati-branded CTEK unit, or the Jaguar dealer for the Jaguar-branded CTEK unit or the Bentley dealer and get....you get the point. All of the luxury car manufacturers market the CTEK unit because it solves the electrical needs that all these cars have...or you can get the same CTEK unit branded as CTEK from any auto supply source.

 

Changing the battery is not difficult. I had issues also. So I first replaced the OEM battery with the same AGM platinum battery. It continued to be an issue after 1 month, I had a dead battery. I took the battery over to advanced and charged it for two days, because it wasn't ready after one day.
I was eyeing the Antigravity batteries for a while and finally pulled the trigger. I ended up getting the H8 antigravity battery free, which is $954 (long story) but totally worth it.
It only weights 20lbs which is crazy for an H8. And comes with 2 keyfobs that you can press a button that will provide a handsfree jumpstart. It's also 1800cca.
I ended up having the problem again and having a dead battery, hit the keyfob on the side of the road and was back up and running.
I attribute it to not driving the car much, because it didn't start happening until my daily commute began to only be a few miles.
Previously I was driving long distances to and from work. I now take the car on the highway every few days just to make sure it gets a nice charge.
If you are gonna drop $800 you can find a Antigravity battery that will suit the needs of an f-type and knock off a ton of weight, plus never leave you stranded.
I only found out about them because of this website.

 

If testing the voltage at the charging terminals shows only 6 volts the battery is probably very deeply discharged. A smart charger won't even try to charge a battery discharged that far. Try a dumb charger for 5 - 8 hours and if the battery is not faulty you should be able to sucessfully charge it.

 

I have a large smart charger. 3 amp Mat, 5 amp charge, 20 amp fast charge and 75 amp start. When hooked to the front engine charging points it is only sending 6V. Tried all settings. It just switches automatically and I have never seen it use 6V before. 75 amp start setting does light up the car but it doesn't recognize my key now to start. Charger says 100% charged on lower settings but keeps running and auto shut off does not kick in as the battery is obviously not fully charged. Left on 5 Amp all night so I will check it shortly and try getting the boot hatch open using the dash button. If I can get at the rear battery there is an interstate battery center close by to test or charge it. New battery is $280 there. Will the car recognize the key again once fully charged?

 

The voltage you are reading is probably the battery voltage not the what the charger is sending. Smart chargers usually refuse to try to charge a battery that is badly discharged (I don't remember what the voltage threshold is). Hence my suggestion to try a dumb charger since they will try to charge a battery in any state. Alternatively try connecting a good car battery with jumper cables for a few minutes and then try the smart charger.

 

I was thinking just get a basic 12V charger and give it a try too.

 

You Tube

 

Wonder if your smart charger supports 6V batteries in addition to 12V. Perhaps your battery is so low it thinks it’s a 6V?

 

If it really reads such a low voltage, that battery is TOAST!!!
Try a decent basic charger on the front terminals.
If that fails, you might consider buy a new battery and connecting it via the front terminals.
That might enable you to open the trunk to access/replace the dead battery.

 

More lights are on and the battery is charging slowly. Still can not get in the boot. If I press the dash I hear click but I think it is locked as it still doesn't recognize the key. Does need too reach a certain voltage before that comes live? Any other ways to get into the boot. If it unlatches I can manually push it up but so far successful. Love to bitch slap the engineer who came up with this f'd up program. Maserati has a battery in the truck. They even put a switch there so you can take it off line of the car for charging. Easy to remove and install too. So the Italians got the wiring right for once?

 

More like it's a common occurrence that they couldn't fix so fitted an easy workaround!

 

At least they have a hidden key hole for the boot too.

 

There is a good chance that your car isn't going to sleep after shut down. If the hazard lights button and the door lock indicator lights stay lit after about 30 minutes after shut down, the car's electronics aren't going to sleep hence drawing power. I recently had this issue and it was the gateway control module that was staying awake and pulling 2 amps which is enough to drain a battery pretty quickly. Dealer reflashed the module and installed a fresh battery. Haven't had the issue since.

 

I have had 2 dead batteries in my 2016 V6S convertible (the original battery and one bad factory battery 9 months later). I was able to use the jump terminals in the engine bay connected to either a running car battery as one would for a jump or a jumper pack. This provided enough energy to the system to open the trunk (although it was not enough to start the engine). However, if your battery is at 6 volts it is possible that your battery will draw off enough power to prevent the electronics from working. I would try to connect your car to a running car battery like you are jumping it and try to open the trunk. If it doesn't work immediately, leave it connected for a few minutes to see if enough energy is transmitted to your battery in the trunk that you can power the electronics to at least open the trunk. With the trunk open, you have many more options.

A mechanical trunk release would have been a good idea.

I now have a trickle charger and use it when the car is parked.

Good luck!

 

Exactly what is happening

 

I got enough juice to open the boot. Yes. Pulled the battery. Went to Interstate and they said it was to low to load test. They really didn't want to charge it either. They are out of this batteries he said on back order for months. Trying to charge it direct now. Bought a cheaper 12V charger from Wal-Mart. Of course it was bad right out of the box. Back out for a different product. Battery guys said to charge it at 5 Amp for 5 hours and check it. My smart charger is seeing only 6V so I found a 12V only charger. Also found battery at several stores. AGM batteries are starting to get restocked. I get home and now my charger is pushing 12 amps and she is 35% charged. It might be ok if not I have a battery source. I will load test it before it goes back in.

 

C’mon guys, a good battery that is fully discharged won’t ever drop to 6V. That 52 pound brick is dead.

 

I think the smart charger made that assumption, not that the battery was giving 6 volts ....