I'm new to the F-Type and want to change oil and filter myself when the car is laid up for winter. I've been working on cars for >40 years, and am familiar with the process for the F-Type (thank you YouTube!), but have a couple of questions:

1) is it necessary to replace the drain plug with a new one at each oil change?
2) should the oil pan drain plug threads be coated in anything (eg anti-seize) prior to installation?
3) is my local Jaguar dealer a reasonable place to obtain parts (filter, drain plug, air filets, etc.) or would you recommend another source - perhaps for pricing or other reasons?
4) do you have any advice?

Thanks!
Steve

 

While I have not done an oil change on my F-Type, I believe the consensus is to suck the oil out via the fill position using a MityVac.
Much easier than draining. Also, to measure the oil sucked out and refill to the same volume to avoid the dreaded overfill.
MitVacs are about $100 or so.
I am still expecting my dealer to do my changes for free for the next 5 years!!
My understanding is that it is expensive to buy the correct JLR spec oil from your dealer and almost impossible to find the correct Castrol version in the US.
I purchased which meets the JLR spec.
I used 1 pint for a minor top-up during the break-in period, since when it has used no oil..

 

What year is your F Type ? Newer models are designed to have the oil extracted out the top through a tube that is in the center of the fill hole. I wouldn't be jacking up the car, pulling all of the underbody shroud parts off and pulling the drain plug unless there is a compelling reason too. Most people are using a Mityvac extractor pump which costs around $100.

Oil and air filters can be obtained online as can the Liqui-Moly oil which is one of only a couple of recommended oils. For the newest models, Jaguar recommends Castrol Edge Professional EC5 0W-20 that meets either the 51.5122 specification or the newest 03.5006 specification. But that Castrol Edge Professional EC5 oil is only available through dealers.

 

In reverse order:

4) use mityvac 7201 or something similar
3) FCP euro: they have a lifetime warrant on parts. After paying for 1 (well 2 kinda.. then its credited) your changes simply become shipping costs

 

So a 2015 (manuf. 2014) would be the drain out the bottom option then I take it?

 

I'm an 'Old Gummer' so I prefer draining via the oil sump bolt. Tradition!!!

If the drain bolt's o-ring seal leaks due to age/compression, there will only be a small drip visible at the next change. If you have one on hand (the bolt/seal are available at Rock Auto) you can put it in at that change. "If you have a replacement part, the original will NEVER fail", LOL.

There is always residual oil on the threads so as long as you torque to the proper valve ('two grunts?") the o-ring will seal without excess compression.

++++++++++

While sucking the oil out via the tube with a MightyVac is a perfectly good procedure, I have a lift in my garage and I inspect/lubricate a LOT of underbody stuff while I wait for the oil to drain. I'm not under the time constraints of a dealer. Keeping all the rubber boots/bushings supple with silicone spray has paid off for me over decades of car ownership.

Draining into my marked drain pan tells me how much I oil I got out, thus the amount to refill. (Of course I verify and reset the average readings as noted in the many Topics here.)

My first oil change, I bought ACDelco and Mahle filters and compared them visually. Nothing stood out (same # of pleats, bonding styles, BOTH made in Mexico, etc) so I'm happy to spend 1/2 the price on AC filters. If you can't find my post from 2018 I could re-post the pictures.

 

My early production 2014 has the tube to suck it from the filler opening. Never had to remove my drain plug.

 

My F-Type is a 2014s V8, and there is a tube in the centre, under the oil fill cap...

 

My F-Type is a 2014 S v8. Per the Castrol site, the recommended oil is Castrol Castrol EDGE Professional E 0W-20. A quick scan of the internet shows that it's not easy to find in my area. There is a UK supplier, and the minimum package size is 20L, which might explain why its generally not available in regular retail quantities, like 1L or 5L....

 

Does anyone have a recommendation on an oil filter?

 

Loads of other oil brands have the correct 0w20 to JLR spec , google the spec , Mahnn filters are easily available even in Canada . Ps get shot of that Guy Trudeau he's a control freak

 

OEM Filter: Amazon: $30.64 +Tax


Oil: I have found the proper Castrol on eBay, but not consistently.
Check out FCP Euro as an alternative:

F-Type Oil

Get a MitVac pump - MUCH easier than going from below.

 

I nearly always get my oil filters from Rock Auto, even with postage from the US to Oz they are muuuuch cheaper than what I can get here in Oz other than for the occasional Fleabay special (and even then ONLY with a quality brand name filter and not any no-name Chinese cheapy).
The exact same oil filter is used across a wide range of modern Jags, OEM part # C2D3670 but see here for the Rock Auto listing for the 2014 F-Type V8S: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...il+filter,5340
I buy which ever of the high quality ones is going cheapest at the time, and you can't go wrong with the Wix 57279.
Other quality brands are Mann, Mahle and ACDelco.
As others have said get a vacuum/extraction pump such as a MityVac and use the extraction tube in the middle of the oil filler hole, infinitely quicker and easier than faffing about underneath removing plastic splash shields and the sump plug. I poo-pooed this method for years until I did some research and worked out that the extraction pump method removes the same amount of old oil as the sump plug drain method and now I will never go back to the old method.

 

At age 66. I have been crawling underneath my jacked up or pulled up on ramps vehicles for the last 50 years to do oil & filter changes. I like working on my cars and have the satisfaction of not only saving some money but knowing that the job was done right. But I'm actually looking forward now to doing the first oil & filter change on my Jag using a Mityvac. And I won't need a handful of Advil for 24 hours afterwards like I do after laying on the garage floor underneath the car while I remove the underbody cladding, drain plug and filter and then putting it all back together again.

Regarding the Castrol Edge Professional EC5 0W-20 oil that meets the newest 03.5006 specification, I contacted Castrol to see if they could supply the names of any online sellers where I could order the oil and have it shipped to my home. They responded within a few hours, and the answer was that the oil was only sold through authorized Jaguar dealers. I did buy 1 quart of the old 51.5122 specification oil from my dealer when I took delivery of the car to have on hand in case the car burned any oil during the break in procedure, so there probably still is a lot of the older spec oil on hand at parts departments in 1 quart bottles. I'm sure they are using the newest oil from bulk 55 gallon drums to do oil changes in their service departments.

 

Dwight at 63, I agree. Looking forward to changing the oil in the spring with my Mityvac. Worked great adding new differential fluid on the wife's CLS.

 

Walmart $27.47 for 5L, Topsider oil extractor $50.23

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Castrol-E...AAAAHQAAAAAQBw

 

That's a helluva cheap price for the oil and as an added bonus it is ILSAC GF-6A.
But of course it's not available here in Oz at any of the normal auto parts stores and even then I can only find it in 20 litre drums.

 

Did service myself on my 2.0 I'm sure not much different to other models, go to post #10
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/f...ricant-250161/

 

That's excellent oil for a good price. But it isn't the same formula as the Castrol Edge Professional EC5 0W-20 oil that meets the newest 03.5006 specification from Jaguar. There is something slightly different in the mix that Castrol makes for JLR applications.

Will your engine grenade if you use the other high quality oils available ? Probably not. You may see wear problems after many tens of thousands of miles though. The decision is up to each individual.
I plan on using the mixture that is JLR approved. It isn't unobtanium, it just isn't as easy to find or as inexpensive as some top quality synthetics that work great in most other high performance engines these days.

 

Agree with all of the comments on the mitivac and will get one for future oil changes. This fall I’m also replacing the air filters so I might as well do the oil from underneath while I’m there. I have a lift so I won’t need the Advil. FCP Euro has a kit with oil, filter and drain plug for decent price. Just out of curiosity, what does a dealer charge for an oil change?