Paint and Leather Protection
#21
#22
The only argument for not applying the film over the nano-coat is that the film will peel from the surface too easily. That is only an issue if the film is not applied properly, and a quality that is desirable when it comes time to replace the film in several years.
Achieving the "nano-shine" on the film can be accomplished with a <5 minute application of a spray polish after each wash.
#23
If this finish is so good, why manufacturers are not applying it at the factory (volume and process discounts driving price down) and then pushing this as a breakthrough in paint technology via marketing?
I am highly skeptical of these products because of that.
My detailing guy applies multi-stage hard wax every spring. It lasts until the next year. It costs me way less than these per year. It looks and works as good.
I am highly skeptical of these products because of that.
My detailing guy applies multi-stage hard wax every spring. It lasts until the next year. It costs me way less than these per year. It looks and works as good.
Last edited by jaguny; 04-07-2017 at 02:14 AM.
#24
1. Unless you have the nano-coat on the entirety of the paint surface, the chemicals in the film adhesive can attack the paint. 2) the nano-coat is a very hard material. Applying it over the top of a very flexible surface (such as the film) leaves it with an unstable base, and the coat will micro-fracture and haze over time.
The only argument for not applying the film over the nano-coat is that the film will peel from the surface too easily. That is only an issue if the film is not applied properly, and a quality that is desirable when it comes time to replace the film in several years.
Achieving the "nano-shine" on the film can be accomplished with a <5 minute application of a spray polish after each wash.
The only argument for not applying the film over the nano-coat is that the film will peel from the surface too easily. That is only an issue if the film is not applied properly, and a quality that is desirable when it comes time to replace the film in several years.
Achieving the "nano-shine" on the film can be accomplished with a <5 minute application of a spray polish after each wash.
1- I've never heard of PPF damaging paint. Any I've used, when removed/replaced, reveal paint that looked as new. Certainly with age, film and film adhesive can be hard to remove. But the underlying paint finish isn't impaired.
2-Everything I have read and had recommended by professional installers is opposite to this. All have said that it is a common practice to apply a ceramic coating on top of PPF in order to create a hydrophobic surface that is easier to clean and maintain. This way you still get the impact protection from the film, while also receiving the easy maintenance and environmental protection that comes with a coating. None have mentioned your micro-fracture issues. Do you have a reference to that issue or specific product used?
3- Film not sticking to a ceramic nano coating I think is less about improper installation and more about the inability to bond effectively to the slick nano-surface.
I'm planning to investigate more with PPF and nano-coating pros on the weekend and will inquire on these points. I appreciate your point of view.
#25
1- I've never heard of PPF damaging paint. Any I've used, when removed/replaced, reveal paint that looked as new. Certainly with age, film and film adhesive can be hard to remove. But the underlying paint finish isn't impaired.
2-Everything I have read and had recommended by professional installers is opposite to this. All have said that it is a common practice to apply a ceramic coating on top of PPF in order to create a hydrophobic surface that is easier to clean and maintain. This way you still get the impact protection from the film, while also receiving the easy maintenance and environmental protection that comes with a coating. None have mentioned your micro-fracture issues. Do you have a reference to that issue or specific product used?
3- Film not sticking to a ceramic nano coating I think is less about improper installation and more about the inability to bond effectively to the slick nano-surface.
I'm planning to investigate more with PPF and nano-coating pros on the weekend and will inquire on these points. I appreciate your point of view.
2-Everything I have read and had recommended by professional installers is opposite to this. All have said that it is a common practice to apply a ceramic coating on top of PPF in order to create a hydrophobic surface that is easier to clean and maintain. This way you still get the impact protection from the film, while also receiving the easy maintenance and environmental protection that comes with a coating. None have mentioned your micro-fracture issues. Do you have a reference to that issue or specific product used?
3- Film not sticking to a ceramic nano coating I think is less about improper installation and more about the inability to bond effectively to the slick nano-surface.
I'm planning to investigate more with PPF and nano-coating pros on the weekend and will inquire on these points. I appreciate your point of view.
#26
I have local detail guy coming out next week to give estimate for prep and cert. C-Quartz app. for me. He also has app. for interior and wheels/tires. Early est is about $400 for ext. only if I remember. Will see how close this is when final est. is in. He says this will be for about 2 yrs. and he has wax for touch up, or recommends any pure wax with no additives, esp. any with abrasives. I am still trying to decide what to use on interior.
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frank james (04-09-2017)
#27
If you think about the purpose of the nano coating in the first place, it is to allow the particles to migrate into and fill the tiny microscopic crevices in the paint. There is no way a film could do this. After film nano coating would then just sit on top of any film, flex with the film maybe add a little shine to the film, but eventually flake off as it expands and contracts due to temp variations.
#30
My nano coating was applied over the film. Not that you should be left with any bubbles if properly installed, but I believe the nano over the film does not allow bubbles to dissipate easily. (Mine was not well done). Bubbles were supposed to dissipate I believe the nano essentially seals the film surface, whether right or wrong, I don't know. I believe this likely reduces the flexibility of the film in some way. Only time will tell.
#32
I've yet to see a single example of a modern product like XPel Ultimate or SunTek causing any problems upon removal. On the other hand, putting a ceramic coating on top of the film provides added gloss, easy tar removal, and superb water shedding properties without the need for waxing. To cover that with paint protection film is to nullify most of the reasons you would apply ceramic in the first place.
#33
I've yet to see a single example of a modern product like XPel Ultimate or SunTek causing any problems upon removal. On the other hand, putting a ceramic coating on top of the film provides added gloss, easy tar removal, and superb water shedding properties without the need for waxing. To cover that with paint protection film is to nullify most of the reasons you would apply ceramic in the first place.
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Jagged Wire (08-11-2017)
#34
#36
Same. In the past, I never liked to use any product on the interior on my cars and would only use a lightly damp towel but I feel that the interior in this car scuffs easily. I just want to use something to help protect from or minimize the scuffs!
#37
I've been using this stuff and think it works great!
#38
Wasn't sure if your question was directed at me? Regardless, film was applied to full hood, all front pieces, fenders, mirrors, side skirts and below does, rear quarters. Areas with and without film were coated with cquartz U.K. (Cold weather formula).
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RoonieQ (04-12-2017)
#39
I've opted for basically the same, not full rear quarter though, rather just the strip along rear wheel arch plus lower area behind rear wheel itself, plus the trunk lid (spoiler) and A-pillars. I intend to then follow-up with Ceramic Pro on all exterior surfaces (9H on full exterior, glass, wheels and calipers). Should be very well protected and easy to maintain thereafter. I'm leaving the interior alone and will detail it and maintain the leather myself without any leather coatings.
#40
From what I know and have read, just using water on leather is the worst thing you can do. Adding lanolin occasionally is necessary to keep it from drying out. For my " around town car" I have an '89 Cadillac Allante' that was washed once a month and likely wiped down with wet cloth on the leather interior by the elderly owners. I have been soaking the leather in conditioner for 2 weeks to soften the leather enough to keep it from cracking when I drive. Great driver, just not cared for for 112,000 miles.