My coupe powered tailgate refuses to power close.
It opens OK, but when closing, it stops and gives warning beeps.
At first, I would pack the grocery bags down a little and it would then close. Lately, it refuses to close at all, even when I empty the trunk completely. I don’t know how the sensors work or where they are (not obvious) but they seem to be falsely triggering an obstruction. It makes no difference if I use the interior or exterior release buttons or the smart key button.
Any suggestions? Is it perhaps time for a system reboot (disconnect and reconnect the battery)?

 

My trunk is manual only on the vert. but I have powered up/down on my Jeep.
Occasionally, it gets out of synch.
Closing it manually (pushing it down) seems to correct the issue.
It will then operate normally.

 

If a hard reset doesn't resolve it, time to suspect the Smart Key battery needs changing.





Graham

 

GGG's advice is worth considering, but wouldn't that mean the hatch wouldn't power-down at all? That's how I read it.



I'd suggest a drop (only a drop!) of a light oil on the tailgate latch mechanism.

Perhaps it sticks a bit, and doesn't fully close (that is, enough for the switch inside to tell the car that its closed).

Worth a try...

 

Not sure if you've resolved this already.
Have you manually shut the tail gate and cycled it through an open and close cycle ?
I know that when I disconnect the battery it requires a resetting of limits by way of physically manually lowering the tail gate so that it engages and locks, then cycle the tail gate through an open and close cycle to reset.

 

I second what P416 says above. I've encountered this issue when I have had to reset the system after the OBD drain issue. The hatch won't close automatically and just beeps until I manually close it 1-2 times. Then it is fine. Good luck, and hope this simple fix solves the issue.

 

This tailgate problem seems to have cured itself. I was planning doing a system reboot this week, but after cycling through the open and close cycle a few times in the course of daily use, the tailgate function has normalized.
My garage has a 4-post lift that I’ve got to be careful of. I must stop the tailgate or it could hit the overhead structure if allowed to fully open. Perhaps repeatedly stopping the tailgate confused it, not overpacking the trunk.
Still, it’s a mystery to me how it senses an obstruction in the trunk. Jaguar magic, I guess.
Thanks for all the replies!

 

I have exactly the same scenario in respect to parking the car under a 4 post.
When I need to access the tailgate, I physically stop the tailgate from going full lift as it really does go very high given the length of the gate.
Physically, and gently lowering the gate manually just until gravity seems to take it home and lock, seems the best way. The gate locks automatically and seems to maintain its limits so it 'knows' where up and closed is.

 

Yes, I see you have the same concerns.
Lovely Jaguar! And, is that one of those "4-door Corvettes" on the lift?


The previous fleet. The TR6 and the X-Type are gone now.

 

Love that SS. Even more stealth than my CTS-V manual. Ahh, miss that car.

 

That is a wagon version of the Chevy SS (you wouldn't see those in the US).
Its a very capable car and I've done lots of track days, drag racing and hauling stuff in it.
A bit longer than the Jag, but narrower and able to carry 5 people and stuff.
Nice fleet you have there and thank you, the Jag is as beautiful standing still as it is in motion.
That a BendPak 4 post lift? Mine is a HD-9ST (narrow version - would have preferred HD-9, wider, but space is an issue)
I find it interesting that the FType has a wider track than the SS - which is a full size 5 seater wagon.
Getting the Jag onto my lift requires more focus as it just barely fits. The rear track is wider than the front by quite a bit.

 

We'll be saying that a lot shortly, as interesting cars go the way of the dinosaur.

 

It’s a Quality Lift, sold and installed by Tool & Equipment Connection, Inc. The Black Jag hibernates up there during the winter months.
I took a deep breath before putting it up the first time.


4” of top clearance. Whew!

 

If the powered tailgate is the same system as fitted to Landrovers then the opening height can be set by pressing and holding the button on the hatch when the desired height is reached. Also the struts give trouble. The first symptom of this is clicking noises during operation. Then the hatch will refuse to close, give a double beep then open again. Manually force closing a hatch with faulty struts can bend the hatch out of alignment.

 

Interestingly I've just started having this exact issue with my tailgate about a month ago on my MY18 R coupe. I've got it in at the dealer tomorrow to look at under warranty... I'll report back any updates they give

 

The real question is if the MKZ is the 400HP version. That's a sleeper no one knows about. I liked it better than the BMW 5 series, and it was significantly cheaper than the 5 series.

 

Whoah. looks great. You're a brave man 4 inches of clearance! Don't you have to lift the car off the locks then drop? That would leave you even less room!
It does take some deep breaths when first you start to raise the car to an unfamiliar height. Brilliant for working on the car and beats working on your back.
I also got a bridge jack which is great to work on brakes and suspension. I installed everything myself and got some help when needed to lift the heavier pieces.
Took some time, but was really enjoyable to slowly figure it out. Like most things in life, I find.

 

Quick update on mine... it's been kept in at the dealer for 3 days now (and now over the weekend... according to InControl the trunk is "open" (i.e. they've left it off over the weekend!), they did the same when they took my hood off last month because that wouldn't close properly either). Apparently they're having trouble with the tailgate repair... they've ordered new parts from JLR and also opened a case because they think there's a software problem?! How is that even possible that there's a software problem that hasn't manifested itself in any other car before now...?

This is all kind of mind boggling...

 

Ok so another update... per diagnostics and Topix they're now going to have to replace the entire Body Control Module as well as the Gateway Module which they are waiting for now. On top of that, they need my second key to reprogram the Gateway Module (I did see elsewhere that this was a change JLR made around 2015 for "security"? Requiring keys to be programmed to Gateway Modules and the programming requires a minimum of 2 keys, sounds right up there with the worst decisions ever) but I can't find my second key so now I've had to buy a second key to get it program and cut (cheap!)

I have to admit, this is not endearing me to the car! Getting closer and closer to selling it...

 

You might get a quote from an automotive locksmith for the 2nd key.