F-Type ( X152 ) 2014 - Onwards
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  #21  
Old 08-10-2017, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Matttheboatman
And, yes, even experienced drivers are 100% exhausted after running - it is the most focus your eyes, muscles, and mind will have ever done.
I will add to that - don't overdo it. The first time I completely lost control of the car (long time ago, different car) and went off the track was when I decided to push extra 30 minutes after already long 2 hour session. Was driving tired and made mistakes. Thankfully, only grass suffered any damage. I got lucky.
 
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  #22  
Old 08-10-2017, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by SinF
I will add to that - don't overdo it. The first time I completely lost control of the car (long time ago, different car) and went off the track was when I decided to push extra 30 minutes after already long 2 hour session. Was driving tired and made mistakes. Thankfully, only grass suffered any damage. I got lucky.
Great point SinF. That is the way to stay safe. When you get tired, pull in. You can quit a session anytime. And, you don't have to run every session. Or, if you get shook up for some reason, pull in to catch your breath and reset. Then go back out. Personally, If I am on the track, I'm 100% in the game. Like the quote "their's no crying in baseball", my first instructor taught me "there is no coasting on the track". If I'm not 100%, I'm on the sidelines. The car is too valuable to mess up, along with its contents!
 
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  #23  
Old 08-10-2017, 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SinF
I regularly track and daily drive the car. Here is what you want to do differently due to track use:

1. Upgrade tires to MPSS or MP4S, stock tires are garbage in track use. After installing Michelin tires you will immediately regret not doing it sooner.

2. Half your service interval for everything. I have under 20K kms on my car, and already I am on forth oil change, changed my gearbox fluid, changed brake fluid. I also did intake cleaning (chemical), as blow-by at WOT is more likely. Alternative to intake cleaning is to install oil catch can.

3. Get clear film bra installed on front end and behind doors. Rubber chunks on the track have a small chance of pitting your paint when you drive fast. Most of the time you can wash them off, especially if you have good coat of wax... but not always.

Last but not least, don't talk to the dealer about track use. They could use it to try to deny any warranty. Unless you have a dealership full of ex-racers, then they will take extra care of you, because they get it.
Thanks! I you just have to rip the band-aid off. I think you alluded to one of my questions, so to lay some out:
1. does the dealer deny a warranty repair if it happens on the track? (I thought I read the Z06 is track certified, come one Jaguar!)
2. Do you get the insurance? if so, I am seeing $525-575 per day on a 2016 R, sound about right?
3. to wrap or not to wrap, some seem to wrap, how does it look? do's or donts on that?
 
  #24  
Old 08-10-2017, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by LT Cav
Then I started reading about rocks, rubber, lights cracked, since I don't have that inevitable first scratch I got cold feet.
Rocks and such will vary based on the track. A good track with it's surface taken care of will not have rocks flying. A track where they don't take care of the surface will have you replacing your windshield. Just find some people who have been to the track and see what they say about the surface and rock chips.
 
  #25  
Old 08-10-2017, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by LT Cav
1. does the dealer deny a warranty repair if it happens on the track? (I thought I read the Z06 is track certified, come one Jaguar!)
It is very different from dealership to dealership. They certainly could, and I heard about this happening.

In my warranty brochure it includes the following statement:

"What is not Covered:

Damage Caused by Accident; Alteration or Misuse of the Vehicle

* Misuse of the vehicle, such as negligence, overloading, racing, or using the vehicle as a stationary power source."


Now, what actually constitutes racing or misuse is lengthy legal argument. Traditionally, racing requires entrance into competition. Various track days, especially with instructors present, are considered 'driver's training' courses. This doesn't mean that they won't try to deny warranty if something big breaks, say you spin a bearing. However, after lawyers get involved your chances are good. For example, Nissan settled a class action for voiding warranty on GT-Rs after drivers used launch-control feature. The argument was that if it is advertised and included, then it is fair to use it. F-type certainly was advertised being driven on track and even has track mode.


Originally Posted by LT Cav
2. Do you get the insurance? if so, I am seeing $525-575 per day on a 2016 R, sound about right?
I do not purchase track insurance, as I normally participate in track days with point-by passing and cost vs. risk with such use doesn't add up. I also have a stable run group of well-adjusted individuals and generally know my limits. Insurance might be a good idea while you are just getting started, you might not yet developed an intuitive feel for what is dangerous and where is the limit. For me, I don't run with maniacs and don't push the car past my comfort level. Sometimes this means you get passed by less capable cars with more capable drivers. You need to be OK with this or you NEED track insurance with additional at-fault rider.

I also don't completely turn traction control off, instead using track-mode. Generally, it doesn't get in the way. This does occasionally result in it cutting my throttle, but so what? I learned to work with it, except that one crest right after sharp corner that you inevitably cross diagonally. I suspect I need to pre-load front suspension to avoid slippage after cresting. For now I either coast past this crest or just consequently suffer traction intervention cutting my WOT.


3. to wrap or not to wrap, some seem to wrap, how does it look? do's or donts on that?
Personally, I did minimal front wrap with a clear film. The only don't is don't cheapen out. High quality film applied by an experienced hand is both durable and nearly invisible even when looking directly.

I also apply masking tape on lower edges of headlight while driving on the track. So they don't get pitted by debris.
 

Last edited by SinF; 08-10-2017 at 10:11 PM.
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  #26  
Old 08-11-2017, 10:56 AM
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Default Great Guidance!

Originally Posted by SinF
It is very different from dealership to dealership. They certainly could, and I heard about this happening.

In my warranty brochure it includes the following statement:

"What is not Covered:

Damage Caused by Accident; Alteration or Misuse of the Vehicle

* Misuse of the vehicle, such as negligence, overloading, racing, or using the vehicle as a stationary power source."


Now, what actually constitutes racing or misuse is lengthy legal argument. Traditionally, racing requires entrance into competition. Various track days, especially with instructors present, are considered 'driver's training' courses. This doesn't mean that they won't try to deny warranty if something big breaks, say you spin a bearing. However, after lawyers get involved your chances are good. For example, Nissan settled a class action for voiding warranty on GT-Rs after drivers used launch-control feature. The argument was that if it is advertised and included, then it is fair to use it. F-type certainly was advertised being driven on track and even has track mode.




I do not purchase track insurance, as I normally participate in track days with point-by passing and cost vs. risk with such use doesn't add up. I also have a stable run group of well-adjusted individuals and generally know my limits. Insurance might be a good idea while you are just getting started, you might not yet developed an intuitive feel for what is dangerous and where is the limit. For me, I don't run with maniacs and don't push the car past my comfort level. Sometimes this means you get passed by less capable cars with more capable drivers. You need to be OK with this or you NEED track insurance with additional at-fault rider.

I also don't completely turn traction control off, instead using track-mode. Generally, it doesn't get in the way. This does occasionally result in it cutting my throttle, but so what? I learned to work with it, except that one crest right after sharp corner that you inevitably cross diagonally. I suspect I need to pre-load front suspension to avoid slippage after cresting. For now I either coast past this crest or just consequently suffer traction intervention cutting my WOT.


Personally, I did minimal front wrap with a clear film. The only don't is don't cheapen out. High quality film applied by an experienced hand is both durable and nearly invisible even when looking directly.

I also apply masking tape on lower edges of headlight while driving on the track. So they don't get pitted by debris.
Thanks for all of this! My goal is to be a better driver, not stroke my own ego vs. keep my car intact so I think I wold take the advice of insurance while learning and picking carefully the group I drive with. I have no issues with all the Miatas in the SCCA passing me, they know if the instructor is driving what the deal is I'm sure. I want to get my wife behind the wheel too on the HPDE so she appreciates the car more. Summit Point and Dominion are my most likely local raceways. As far as warranty, I do not for now plan on even a timed (formally) run, let alone a race, just learning to be a better driver, and quench my need for speed legally.

Another question - it is a convertible and I read some orgs require aftermarket ROPS on some cars like Miata's. Is the F-Type a confirmed acceptable Roll Over Protection System for track days? I am pretty sure I read it was but can't remember where.

Thanks again to EVERYONE for such great insight. I am not even scratching 3000 miles and it had 1399 on the new to me day but I look for reasons to drive again now! I am still parking half a mile away though and the cat stays out of the water (rain).
 
  #27  
Old 08-11-2017, 08:35 PM
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Generally, F-type is OK for roll over protection. However, different tracks have different rules. Google getting meatballed for sound at Laguna Seca for entertainment value.
 
  #28  
Old 08-11-2017, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by SinF
Generally, F-type is OK for roll over protection. However, different tracks have different rules. Google getting meatballed for sound at Laguna Seca for entertainment value.
Sound! At a track? Snowflakes.
 

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