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What size spacers will fit with Gyrodene 20" wheels without altering the wheel studs, don't want any cutting. Just want wheels flush with wheel arches, anyone fitted spacers with these wheels.
Most use 15mm spacers - as do I. However, you will have to cut approx 2mm off the end of each stud. The results are worth it.
In the meantime, I do not think you are going to find spacers in 13mm. You will likely have to opt for 10mm spacers.
Think i saw a post somewhere that someone used 17mm but cant find it and don't see them for sale, would eliminate cutting, have you pics with these wheels and spacers.
Last edited by powerhouse; Dec 30, 2017 at 01:12 PM.
I have the MotorSport 17mm spacers and 20" Gyrodynes.
Still had to grind the studs although there was a couple people on here saying that wasn't necessary. Without a doubt, they rub/touch if not ground down.
So, if Motorsport, I believe all will need grinding. VERY easy 20min all around job at most it the car is on a lift with all wheels off. Grind the indentation flat, done. Nothing is done that is detrimental to the car, you are still far from where the threads start.
You will know something is wrong with the 17mm spacers and fitment as the 'touching' is enough to throw the wheels ever so slightly off 'center' - drives like unbalanced wheels + a whoosing sound at low speeds.
That said, when done right, the 17mm spacers are the best mod for the money for these cars (IMHO).
Last edited by Burt Gummer; Dec 29, 2017 at 06:34 PM.
Sorry. I went the wrong way in spacer size to avoid cutting the studs.
I do not know if the 17mm spacers will eliminate the need for cutting the studs. Further, I do not know if 17’s will work with the stock 20” Gerodyne rims.
Most use 15mm spacers - as do I. However, you will have to cut approx 2mm off the end of each stud. The results are worth it.
Some use 17mm w/o any stud trimming/issues.
You could also grind off 2-3mm at the bottom of the sockets on the back side of the Gyrodynes. Grinding aluminum is 10 times easier than grinding hardened steel.
yes that is where I got mine and they claim to have made a lot of them for F Type owners - they fit perfect - I ordered mine in black which was a little bit more money
While I agree that grinding aluminum is easier than hardened steel, the indent on the studs makes for a perfect marker to know where to stop, how much to take off. As soon as it is flush and shiny, and the letter/marker is gone.
I would surely screw up a set of wheels 'guessing' how deep to go .
Any shop should be less then $50 to add this to a tab or buy a Dewalt 4" spinning wheel corded or cordless driver refurb on Ebay for about the same amount. Put on rubber gloves AND safety googles and have at it. It is actually a FUN project. Done in under 4-5 minutes per corner even if you are super picky.
Anyone in the Portland area is free to borrow my race jack, car jacks, grinder for such a project. Just leave a deposit - as in, no good deed goes unpunished these days.
I did mine when I took all four wheels in for powdercoating. Never had a car on all four jack stands before but it seemed very stable due to the car's low stance I suppose.
Last edited by Burt Gummer; Dec 31, 2017 at 01:50 AM.
Put on rubber gloves AND safety googles and have at it. It is actually a FUN project. Done in under 4-5 minutes per corner even if you are super picky.
The DeWalt is certainly the answer. I ground down the studs with a 1/8" drive Dremel and it took all day. LOL!
Burt do you have any stone chipping due to the spacers been on, this is what i was wondering, you get a good stance look but debris been thrown up would be an issue. Also had you to get the wheel alignment checked after fitting.
No stone chipping. Tires (factory size) still are within the fender well. There is a little plastic black lip behind the rears on my 2015R that might help also.
The 17mm spacers are perfect with 20" Gyrodynes and factory size wheels. Other wheel/tire combos I cannot say.
No stone chipping. Tires (factory size) still are within the fender well. There is a little plastic black lip behind the rears on my 2015R that might help also.
The tires are pushed out further so there is going to be more stone chipping. I already get some along the side skirts/rear quarter, so I can only imagine it will be worse if you push the tires out over a half inch.
Burt do you have any stone chipping due to the spacers been on, this is what i was wondering, you get a good stance look but debris been thrown up would be an issue. Also had you to get the wheel alignment checked after fitting.
You need to clear wrap the rocker panels in order to avoid stone chips from rocks being thrown from the front tires. The rear tires do not appear to cause an issue for the rear fenders.
with H&R spacers 15 mm i go easy with 19'' propellor ?
thx
I have a set of 15mm spacers I got from Amazon on my 19" Propellers, with no grinding or modification required. The wheels have pockets between the lug holes that allow the stock lugs to seat with no issues.
Spacers with Gyrodene wheels
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- as in, no good deed goes unpunished these days. 
