Thanks. I totally missed listing that. I have a V6 380HP S.

 

I know I'm not the only one currently going through this - dealer quoted me $828 for the 'isolator repair kit', and around $2500 total to replace it and the suspect cooling pipes underneath. Whew. Haven't asked if it's a redesigned isolator/bearings, or if I should expect to replace it again (by which time I hope to be able to do it myself.)

Here's a video of startup, idle and shutdown...
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1m09fqw9cn..._3149.MOV?dl=0

 

this came in and it was around 100 bucks for everything, it replaces the problem in the supercharger snout (the torsion spring), i would do this upgrade rather than putting in another spring to eventually eat up your snout/be noisy again.

 

My response to this would be look for another dealer or an independent service garage.

The parts prices seem excessive

I am sure there are US based suppliers of parts for Eaton TVS repair.

 

Yes, I found tons of repair kits for our supercharger (including on Amazon.) I think the dealer is quoting list price on everything - I may see if they'll negotiate, as they're doing a bunch of stuff at the same time. May start another thread (SC snout, brake pads + rotors, tires, diff fluid change, etc.) Ordered Porterfield R4-S from VAP, MP4S from Tire Rack, may source rotors too.

Hope to have a pole barn with lift in a few years, so I can start doing a lot of this stuff myself.

 

I'm starting to think we should start a group buy on SC snouts. Stuart?

 

thanks for posting. I have heard a slight noise every once in a while when shutting down - sounds like the SC just stopping from spinning - but was a bit paranoid that maybe I was missing something. That said, listening to the rattle in that video confirmed that I have nothing like that going on. If the dealer can Listen to that noise and say it’s okay, they need to have their shop closed.

 

I too have had a clicking noise coming from the snout when the engine comes to a full stop. But it’s been like that for the past 35,000 miles and isn’t getting any worse. I’m hoping I have the upgraded coupler.

 

I have bought parts from these guys. They sell oem parts. I believe this is a complete replacement snout $345. Their shipping is very reasonable usually.
You can cross ref the part on line to check.
Just an fyi I buy parts for both my gmc vehicles from these guys as well.

Part number C2D38553

https://www.suburbanautoparts.com/oe...Y4LWdhcw%3D%3D

 

I have recently discovered Suburban. They frequently come up as the cheapest source for OEM Jag parts.

 

The superchgarger needs to removed to make this repair?

 

Most say yes, some say no.
Either way the snout needs to come off to access the coupler.
There is a bolt on the underneath of the snout which some say you can juuuust get to by loosening the SC mounting bolts and tilting the SC back a bit, and then you can remove the snout and change out the coupler.
If (more likely when!) I change my coupler again I will get a full service kit from Powerhouse including bearings and SC oil then take the car to my preferred mechanic to get it done. If you are going to change the coupler then it makes sense to renew the bearings and the oil while you are at it.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Jaguar-F...from=R40&rt=nc

 

That's been my experience as well. I also found their shipping to be reasonable and timely.

Some of the Jaguar dealers that sell parts online the parts seem reasonable until you go to checkout the shipping was crazy expensive for even a small part.
I always check 2 or 3 sources. But have found suburban to be cheapest 99% of the time. They carry many car brands parts.

 

+1 on the Jaguar Dealers and their shipping! I had the small rubber wheel arches (two strips of rubber) in my basket from a Jaguar dealer online and the part total was minimal....THEN I put in my zip code for shipping (from Nevada to Illinois....Not Bosnia or anything).......Shipping was $237.18...Not kidding. So I ordered from BritCars in the UK to US and shipping was only $16???

No idea why these dealers gouge on shipping or think anyone would pay it??

DC

 

so i brought my car to my friends mechanic shop and they removed the whole supercharger to replace the blown coolant line, while he was in there i had him change the coupler. it was reletavely easy to pop off the snout and place that in there, costs around 100 bucks for that little piece. it took my mechanic from start to finish 4 hours to take off the supercharger, replace the coolant lines, pop off the snout and replace the coupler and bolt back everything together. the car is actually quiter now and no weird knocking when turning it off. i'm pretty happy with it!

Does anyone know how long i'll have to keep topping up coolant? we burped the system as much as we could and then i drove 40km home and the line in the coolant reservoir went from max to min. I'll check again tomorrow morning when the car is cold to see where the line is and top it off again.

Apart from that it cost me 250 bucks for my mechanics time for all of this! amazing guy!

 

I had similar experience with buying the new start button. part was $28 at checkout shipping was $130 thru Harper I believe. Bought from Ft Myers same price $12 shipping!
same with my 3 piece front splitter about $100 for parts shipping was over $200! That's when I found suburban Auto, same price and shipping was like $20
Ft Myers Jag online was ok on price,shipping and time.

 

That seems very reasonable for the amount of work.

 

That seems very reasonable for the amount of work.
I would suggest after you drive the car and let it completely cool down, you check it and keep topping it off until it
the level doesn't drop. also make sure the cap is tight on the reservoir the 3 click rule!

 

In my experience, it takes around 5 - 10 drive cycles (warmup>cooldown) for automotive cooling systems to purge all their air.

A few high RPM bursts will help also purge the system. (It's FUN, too!)

 

Where do you get the solid isolator? What is the cost?
How much to do the job?
I am looking at buying the V6