Watch this before you switch:

 

Yep, maybe the same here.
I still have two tins of BG 44K on the shelf but I found the Redline brew on Oz Ebay for fairly cheap and free delivery, what's not to like.
I will try the Redline in a couple of months' time and see how it goes, although I suspect I won't notice any improvement (engine runs great other than for the loud rattle at idle which I now suspect is the damn SC coupler gone bung again), but you never know!

 

I've done a heap of research on the interwebz and the Redline brew has the highest concentration of PEA in fuel system cleaners that I can find, 25-30%, see here:
https://w3apps.phillips66.com/NetMSD...SubFormat=USDS
I've also looked for straight PEA but without success, and it might not be a great idea anyway.

 

Well, I have a couple bottles of Techron Concentrate now.

I'll give it a go and change over to 0% Bio-Etanol content fuel as well to see if anything (MPG/General crispness feeling) changes...

 

Redline all the way. Every time I take plugs of I put an endocam and check the piston head and combustion chamber. Redline does an amazing job. PEA is specifically designed to remain effective at very high temperatures. Redline has the highest content % of all.

 

Double post - phone app not so friendly. Sorry.

 

I agree by trial and error! Poured BG44K into about a quarter tank of fuel, roughly 4 gals, my Z4M started missing badly! Fueled up immediately as I left my neighborhood, restarted, and about a minute later, no more misses. Don't know what issues if any this caused, but car still runs fine now. Sputter sputter peanut butter was a bit concerning for sure. Talk about a rich mix!

 

I'd like you to qualify that statement.

Because after endless searching I cannot find the PEA concentrate in Techron (of course the MSDS needs not note it as it's a secretive blend) to have done your comparison.

 

so whats the final consensus here? Ive got an X351 3.0 XJ that i want to run some techron through, is redline better?

 

Short answer - no one here knows for sure (although FType17 reckons Redline is the best).
Long answer - those "in the know" reckon that PEA is the most effective ingredient and it appears (not proven though) that Redline has the highest concentration of PEA, so putting two and two together and yes Redline is the best.

 

I used to use BG44K Platinum but after this thread I checked all of the SDS I could find for the products in question. For BG44K I found old SDS that listed PEA as an ingredient but all of the latest revisions of the documents don't list any (but curiously the listed ingredients only add up to ~70-75% balance PEA?). For Techron the SDS lists a trade secret ingredient that is 25 to 35% of the product (PEA?). For Redline Sl-1 the June 2020 SDS says the product is 25 to 30% PEA. Since Redline was the only product that actually listed PEA that is what I use now.

 

The short answer is that any of the products mentioned in this thread are better than none. Use whatever is convenient for you (i.e. what's easiest for you to obtain).

 

Can anyone give me the information for what oil, or at least the JLR spec I'll need, for the P300 4-cylinder? I am trying to buy oil for my car and am having the hardest time finding what I need to get.

 

Hey guys if you use a half of a can of Boostane or VP racing octane booster per 10 gallons of fuel you will be golden when it comes to clean injectors and valvetrain and safe because of the added octane... Buy a box and you are good for the year of driving if this is simply a weekend warrior like mine!

 

A New Oil Specification for GDI Engines This year brought us a new specification for motor oil; ILSAC GF-6 / API SP. One of the primary goals of the new oil spec is to reduce incidence of two problems gasoline direct injection (GDI) engines have been experiencing.

GDI blasts the fuel directly into the combustion chamber at high pressure. This leaves less time for the air and fuel to mix together. The resulting air/fuel mixture may burn unevenly which may generate a lot of soot. As the pistons move up and down, the soot gets mixed into the motor oil. The soot travels with the motor oil through the engine and causes wear.

The most noticeable wear often occurs between the pins and bushings that hold timing chains together. As the bushing holes wear and enlarge, the timing chains stretch. Eventually the timing chains may stretch to the point that they slip across gear teeth or otherwise are unable to correctly connect the crankshaft to the camshafts. The computer generates a trouble code, the engine goes into limp-in mode and/or the engine stops running. GF-6 / SP oil resists collecting and circulating the harmful soot.

GF-6, API SP and API SN PLUS on labelThe second problem, low-speed pre-ignition (LSPI), is also related to the uneven burning of air/fuel in GDI engines; specifically, turbocharged GDI engines. When running at relatively low RPM and under heavy load, like when moving away from a dead stop, severe knocking may occur inside the cylinders. Scientists figured out that traces of engine oil mixing and burning with the air/fuel mixture contributes to the damaging engine knock. GF-5 / SN-Plus spec oil was released a couple of years ago to combat this problem (watch for the “Plus” after SN). The new GF-6 / SP oil helps with both the soot and knock problems.

Ford has produced the most turbocharged GDI engines. Small 1L, three-cylinder Ford EcoBoost engines power Ford Fiestas, and big 3.5L, six-cylinder EcoBoost motors are in work trucks that rack up a lot of severe-duty (towing, dust, etc.) miles. The soot and knock problems have been studied most thoroughly on EcoBoost engines. The new specification actually requires that new GF-6 / SP oils pass tests running in Ford EcoBoost motors!

GDI / Direct Injection in part descriptions and Info pageThese new oils, higher fuel injection pressures, intake manifold port injection coupled with GDI, etc. help solve these problems on older engines and prevent them on newer engines. GDI engine owners may be able to help the most by simply changing their vehicles' motor oil frequently and always using the correct oil. Instead of waiting for the longest, light-duty, oil change interval (often 7,000+ miles/11,000+ km), change the oil closer to the severe-duty interval (often 3,000 miles/5,000 km).

You can check to see if your specific vehicle's engine uses GDI by looking at the “Info” pages and part descriptions for the engine's Fuel Injectors found under “Fuel & Air” in the RockAuto.com catalog. Find the correct engine Oil for your vehicle under “Engine.” Oil is also listed by viscosity/weight under the “Tools & Universal Parts” tab.

Note: The “A” in GF-6A means the oil is a viscosity/weight compatible with existing engines. The “B” in GF-B means the oil is only to be used in recent engine designs that require completely new viscosity/weight oils such as 0W-16.

Tom Taylor,
RockAuto.com

 

"A New Oil Specification for GDI Engines"

Thank you very much for sharing this, Unhingd!

 

This new spec oil came out in around April 2020 IIRC and so far very few makers offer it in the correct weight for our F-Types, I vaguely remember that Pennzoil is one of them. I have search here in Oz for it for a few months now and it simply doesn't exist here yet.

 

Thank you for the information on the GF-6A spec.

Does anyone have a 0w-20 oil that currently meets this spec and works for our vehicles? For reference, I have a 2.0 F-Type with the Ingenium engine. I'm also having a HELLUVA time finding oil for my car.

This search finds Castrol Edge: STJLR.03.5006 0W-20
That said, it shows as available in the UK, not here. What's the deal?

 

Update for Oz members.
We can now get ILSAC GF-6A engine oil here in Oz, I bought two 5 litres bottles yesterday from Supercheap Auto of all places for a discounted price of $57 a pop.
The latest just released Penrite Full Synthetic 0W-20, see here: https://www.penriteoil.com.au/produc...0w-20-full-syn
I prefer 5W-20 over 0W-20 but the 5W-20 is still GF 5 and from my research this Penrite 0W-20 is the ONLY GF-6A available in Oz.
I have never put 0W-20 in my F-Type but I will try it in July 2021 (winter time) and report back if it makes any difference at all to my very rattly engine.
My next oil change is due in two weeks time (I change the oil every six months) but I will be using the 5W-20 I have on the shelf as it is mid-summer here.