One of the reasons to either not jump straight to the dead battery, or at least connect the ground lead to the chassis not close to the battery - a dead battery with a lot of charging current going into it produces hydrogen gas. Not that compatible with sparking. Best practice would be to disconnect the charging battery first, so any sparking is away from the battery being charged.

IMO, if you’re going to own jumper cables, they should be heavy duty with good connectors. When I jumped a friend’s SUV, the alligator clips were so worn on her set I had to hold it on the ground terminal - not ideal. I carry a set in the XE, but no room in the F-type.

 

If this is your first time hooking up jumpers to a car, I suggest you find a knowledgeable shade tree mechanic to show you how it’s done properly. It’s not difficult, but requires the right sequence of connecting to the right terminals to be done safely.

 

Oh for sure, I'm fairly confident with normal engine bay jump points, but I'm talking about hooking to the battery in the trunk.

 

Most jumper cables they sell at Walmart or parts stores are cheap low gauge thin wire lightweights. they don’t work worth a ****. If you can hold your jumper cables out at arms length, your cables are junk. Find some heavy ones. They actually work And the only time you need jumper cables is in an emergency so the last thing you need in an emergency it’s crappy equipment

 

+1. For cables in the 15-20' length range you want at least 4 gauge cables, preferably 2 gauge. Get rubber insulated cables (rather than vinyl) as they are more flexible and easier to work with.