Time to Replace Battery...?
#1
Time to Replace Battery...?
My 2017 R vert has just past the 5 yr mark.
Although I haven't had any issues with battery yet, except for a few dead battery issues with the first 2 years' OBD experience after annual inspections.
Only has 13K miles, daily short commutes to the office, & it starts right up every time, even in this cold weather & lots of convertible up & down cycles, about 6 - 8 per day.
However, is it good idea to pro-actively replace the battery, now that it's past 5 yrs old?
Also, quick sugg on where to best buy replacement battery, so I'll start preparing to check around...
Thanks,
Although I haven't had any issues with battery yet, except for a few dead battery issues with the first 2 years' OBD experience after annual inspections.
Only has 13K miles, daily short commutes to the office, & it starts right up every time, even in this cold weather & lots of convertible up & down cycles, about 6 - 8 per day.
However, is it good idea to pro-actively replace the battery, now that it's past 5 yrs old?
Also, quick sugg on where to best buy replacement battery, so I'll start preparing to check around...
Thanks,
#3
#4
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Unless you travel to remote places, or where you may be stranded, I would not replace it until it shows signs of failing. (I.E. It will usually start slower, or get a low battery light before it just outright dies. I said USUALLY).
On the other hand, if you do not want to risk it, or the potential inconvenience, they are not that expensive (everything is relative and subjective). These are nothing special. Just Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) batteries, so as long as you find the right CCA and form factor that is an AGM, any quality battery is fine.
The Group Size is H8, OEM is 90 Amp and 875-900 CCA is plenty. You can (as an example) get one at Advance Auto parts for ~$220.00.
Or Jaguar Part# (C2D23134) - List $416.15
There may be some variance by year and/or model, so verify before purchasing.
DC
On the other hand, if you do not want to risk it, or the potential inconvenience, they are not that expensive (everything is relative and subjective). These are nothing special. Just Absorbed Glass Matt (AGM) batteries, so as long as you find the right CCA and form factor that is an AGM, any quality battery is fine.
The Group Size is H8, OEM is 90 Amp and 875-900 CCA is plenty. You can (as an example) get one at Advance Auto parts for ~$220.00.
Or Jaguar Part# (C2D23134) - List $416.15
There may be some variance by year and/or model, so verify before purchasing.
DC
#5
My svr is also just turning 5, Mine was showing the occasional odd error and the dealer recommendation was to replace the OEM battery. I am in Las Vegas so the heat could have something to do with it, but 5 years out a battery is LONG time here. I would get nervous at 4 years :-) and had to replace a few at 3 years getting partial warranty credit. The new battery cost made me miss the days of the $60 battery (with exchange) days.
#6
#7
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
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In the past and on both of my previous Jags (2010 XFS and 2010 XFR) I replaced the battery once it hit four years old.
But they were all old-fashioned flooded cell lead acid batteries and the F-Type is the first car I have ever owned with an AGM battery.
I am still going strong, never a single battery related issue, on the original now over seven years old battery.
And I rarely do a decently long trip any more almost all my driving is occasional short trips, one or two km (down the shops) or 10-15 km.
That pattern of driving should be hard on the battery and cause it to conk within four years but as I said it is still going strong after seven+ years.
I put that down to regular use of a battery tender/maintainer, I whack the car on the tender quite often at least once a week and every time I expect not to drive for a couple of days.
I bought a new replacement battery some three years ago now just in case the current battery suddenly conks out but have not needed it yet.
The secret is regular use of a battery tender!
But they were all old-fashioned flooded cell lead acid batteries and the F-Type is the first car I have ever owned with an AGM battery.
I am still going strong, never a single battery related issue, on the original now over seven years old battery.
And I rarely do a decently long trip any more almost all my driving is occasional short trips, one or two km (down the shops) or 10-15 km.
That pattern of driving should be hard on the battery and cause it to conk within four years but as I said it is still going strong after seven+ years.
I put that down to regular use of a battery tender/maintainer, I whack the car on the tender quite often at least once a week and every time I expect not to drive for a couple of days.
I bought a new replacement battery some three years ago now just in case the current battery suddenly conks out but have not needed it yet.
The secret is regular use of a battery tender!
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#8
The OEM Varta battery appears to be high quality and heavy duty. But I couldn’t see paying $500-600 for one when I replaced it.
Here are the specs, at least for early models…
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5tvrtsxpyl...5D852.pdf?dl=0
Here are the specs, at least for early models…
https://www.dropbox.com/s/5tvrtsxpyl...5D852.pdf?dl=0
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NavyBlue (03-01-2022)
#9
My MY14 F-Type battery never failed, but I replaced it proactively in June 2020 - basically because it's not a high cost item and the potential PIA is high. Costco Interstate $211. Other than it being in a fairly tight space, there's nothing special to replacing the battery yourself - other than doing the automatic window reset.
Meanwhile, the MY17 F-Pace battery dutifully failed 2 months before the warranty period ended, so I got an free OEM.
Meanwhile, the MY17 F-Pace battery dutifully failed 2 months before the warranty period ended, so I got an free OEM.
Last edited by uncheel; 03-01-2022 at 11:35 AM.
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NavyBlue (03-01-2022)
#10
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My MY14 F-Type battery never failed, but I replaced it proactively in June 2000 - basically because it's not a high cost item and the potential PIA is high. Costco Interstate $211. Other than it being in a fairly tight space, there's nothing special to replacing the battery yourself - other than doing the automatic window reset.
Meanwhile, the MY17 F-Pace battery dutifully failed 2 months before the warranty period ended, so I got an free OEM.
Meanwhile, the MY17 F-Pace battery dutifully failed 2 months before the warranty period ended, so I got an free OEM.
And I understand there is one thing special about replacing it - 90lb weaklings need not apply.
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uncheel (03-01-2022)
#11
One thing in its favour is that the placement is much more "back friendly" - in my previous XKR the battery was located at the front of the trunk just behind the rear seats so is a lot of a stretch to reach. And the battery, as you know, is heavy. i ended up having to actually get inside the trunk to lug it into position, and that was after removing all the bracing that's in the way!
#12
I agree that battery maintainers like Ctek or Optimate are the answer. Motorcycle batteries are the worst for longevity - they are TINY to keep weight down and for convenient fitting, yet still have to fire up and run 1100cc or bigger engines. On my VFR 750 battery I used an optimate - battery was still operating 13 years later when I sold the bike
#13
Make sure to inspect the replacement battery before taking it home. I discovered mine had a cracked case, so I got to lift it in and out of the trunk an extra time, swapping it for a good one. They are indeed heavy.
#14
#15
I put in an Antigravity 60a. 13lbs or so....so huge weight saving. Added bluetooth "meter" and with an app I can check it. Its been superb in single digit temps at 94% not moved for a week at a time this past month (new). Shocking how much weight it saves. Not cheap...but for that much weight saved...to me worth it.
Works fine - probably better than before in terms of start up. I long since disabled s/s...
Kept the car on a maintainer up front so no resets or issues popped up. Simple. Lifting the old battery out of the car without hurting my back was the hardest part of the whole thing.
(
Works fine - probably better than before in terms of start up. I long since disabled s/s...
Kept the car on a maintainer up front so no resets or issues popped up. Simple. Lifting the old battery out of the car without hurting my back was the hardest part of the whole thing.
(
#16
Thanks for comments info above.
So maybe the Costco Interstate battery sounds like a good AGM replacement at $178.
This is the right one for my 17 R, correct?
https://www.costco.com/automotive-batteries.html
https://costco.interstatebatteries.c...438&Country=US
So maybe the Costco Interstate battery sounds like a good AGM replacement at $178.
This is the right one for my 17 R, correct?
https://www.costco.com/automotive-batteries.html
https://costco.interstatebatteries.c...438&Country=US
#17
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NavyBlue (03-01-2022)
#18
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#19
Yep.
Finally happened.
Vehicle wouldn't start yesterday.
Dead battery.
No warnings.
Had it jumped, limped to the office.
Wife went to Costco, bought battery, $210 total after taxes & core charge, will return old battery later for $15 core charge refund.
Spent 30 minutes last night installing the new Interstate battery, after watching 2 minute YouTube video, wasn't hard, just 10 bolts to loosen & re-tightened.
Runs great now.
Guess I'll just proactively replace battery at 5 yr mark from now on...
Finally happened.
Vehicle wouldn't start yesterday.
Dead battery.
No warnings.
Had it jumped, limped to the office.
Wife went to Costco, bought battery, $210 total after taxes & core charge, will return old battery later for $15 core charge refund.
Spent 30 minutes last night installing the new Interstate battery, after watching 2 minute YouTube video, wasn't hard, just 10 bolts to loosen & re-tightened.
Runs great now.
Guess I'll just proactively replace battery at 5 yr mark from now on...
#20