Yes, you are correct, my memory failed me!
The Wortec "sun cut" rotors for the F-Type were both front and rear.
But ONLY for the "super performance" brakes 380 mm front and 376 mm rear.
High performance brakes = 380 mm front and 326 mm rear and Wortec never did them for the 326 mm rear brakes.
And the 376 mm rear brakes vs 326 are different in four ways - different rotors (duh!), different calipers, different brake pads and different splash shields.
I know coz I DIY upgraded my 326 mm brakes to the 376 mm ones.

 

ok so it seems that the fronts are both 380mm so there would be no difference in the front if wortec was to fit the 'high performance' brakes. I dont see upgrading the rears from 326 to 376, I dont really track or race or anything crazy...just want to be able to get to 70mph in s shorter amount of time and take turns faster :-) No clue what the brake upgrade from 326 to 376 would cost, but I would have to imagine 1000 US per hub.

 

Yep, the bigger rear brakes most likely make SFA difference outside of the track but I went that way coz I already had the slotted and drilled rotors (barely used) from my old XFR to match the fronts and I lucked onto a set of rear calipers going real cheap, and the 326 mm rotors just look too weeny.
$2,000 US all up sounds about right if you DIY with all new OEM parts, add another $500 if you pay someones else to do it.

 

Funny and that is totally the right description for how the 326mm look 'too weeny'. Better for rear brakes to look 'too weeny' then.....

 

I’m adding sport cats, not sure of weight savings but there light as can be holding them. Next is signature wheels, about 40lbs weight savings there, I contacted paul at wortec and I think I’m just going with front rotors for cost reasons, that’s a good 30lbs saving, the rear don’t save much and %75 braking is done with front anyways. The batteries were to expensive for me to rationalize.

 

What did he quote you for the front rotors? Do you have stock on there now or are you going with slotted/drilled on front and solid on rear?

 

Very amusing thread

 

without converting it was around $1500 USD, I have stock now on my R, ill keep the rear the same since the wortec only save maybe 5 lbs at most, its the front they save a whole 30LBS (according to wortec).

 

that seems to be about what he quoted me....I think he will offer discounts at 5 sets. Not getting many bites from the group buy for fronts and backs....will let it run a while longer

 

Agreed...

 

And what is so amusing about this thread? Is it the fact that a bunch of us V6s owners are looking for ways to improve performance since we do not have V8s?

 

You do know who ftype17 is dont you?

 

vengeance? I cant quite get as involved as his 600+ HP V6, this is more of a poor-mans vengeance

 

Let's not treat him like a god, he's the same as anyone else.

 

Oh i know that Stohlen

 

Ordered pulley and tune, for a V6 base model F-Type. Currently in transit but looking forward to the install!

 

I have a base V6 and have the VAP pulley and VTech tuning unit sat in its box. I've pulled the ECU file from the car and sent to VAP and am just now waiting for the tuned files to arrive which I'll flash to the car within a day or so of receipt. I'll probably do the stage 1 tune first (without the pulley) and get the pulley installed by a local shop at a later date and then flash the stage 2 tune for that. So I should be able to get some impressions on coming from a base V6 with the tune only and then the tune and pulley.

Just bear in mind I'm one of those weird people who think the 340BHP F-Type is plenty fast enough so I'm probably just going to be straight up terrified by any more oomphf. :-)

 

The tune alone will generate a bit more adrenaline. If the 340 is plenty for you now, adding the pulley will require a change of underwear.

 

LOL. Well the lovely folks at VAP sent me my new tune files tonight so I'm that much closer to white knuckle terror now. Looking forward to it!

 

Just flashed the stage 1 tune (the one without the pulley) on my base V6 and went for a quick trip. My impressions:

The flash process was easy, very very DIY. I did hook up a small 12V battery maintainer to the terminals under the hood whilst the flashing was in progress. The file copy to the car takes about 5 minutes. You'll get a check engine light that'll stay on for 5 or 6 six engine start cycles but I believe the car is fine to drive. Same happens when you first read from your car's ECU, the check engine light did eventually disappear as expected.

Overall it's a subtle change imo. I did a 60mph to (not saying) mph overtake and that definitely felt quicker than I was used to. I dunno, the car also seems a bit smoother to drive, does anyone else know what I mean? The gear shifts seem a bit nicer and the acceleration seems smoother and more consistent. In fact that was the thing I noticed the most just driving about and I have to say I really really like that. So I would say don't necessarily focus all on the power on the VAP tune, also consider that it seems to improve the quality of the drivability too. Very subjective though. Exhaust note on the upshift has changed slightly (a tiny bit less snorty) but the pops and burbles as you let off the gas seem much the same which we all love.

In a nutshell I'm very happy, there is a definite boost in power (it's not woah crazy though), and a nice uplift to the quality of the drive. Given how easy it is to install, for out of warranty cars this seems like a very nice upgrade, particularly if you're a skin flint like me and you bought a base model lol. I'll get the stage 2 done probably later in the month, haven't decided yet.