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heat is generated by internal resistance the harder it is to push air the more heat it dosent matter what size blower you have here's an example take a 12v air compressor and plug the end with your finger it's going to generate heat very wick even melt the hose the take your finger off the compressor hose an let the air flow it will run hours without overheating. The problem here is alot of us only think in performance parts pulleys tunes never think on supporting medications. Number 1 thing to do when targeting hp is to upgrade the exhaust larger diameter pipes catless, and headers you should look up on Google how small the manifolds are in these engines is a joke doing that is going to massively drop intake temps and boost. 2nd these engines can only hold about half a gallon inside the supercharger cooling system very small amount it will get hot very quick that will get you high aits you need to expand the cooling system more water atleast a 1.5gal capacity the more water the longer it takes to heat up and the faster it cools down. These cars are build to last along time at the stock hp and most importantly emissions. So dosent matter which size blower you get you are just wasting your time and money without doing these 2 things the stock blower can make over 900hp some very full effort builds have reach 1000hp the efficiency range in these blowers is measured by pressure not rpm i can have 1 blower pushing 20psi at 15,000 and another same size lower pushing 15psi at 20krpms the 20krpm blower is flowing alot more air because is spinning fasters but at the same time is running more efficient 15psi less boost less heat. So at the end it all comes down to the time of engine you are modifying the aj133 flows decently well in opinion cooling capacity is what I recommend to everyone. Here's a trick you can do to see how important more water capacity is in plug your supercharger water pump when the engine is cold and driver kt for 15min dont give it any boost just cruise normally and then look at your intake temps shut up to 200+f while driving normally 😂 thats how important water cooling is people dont run massive 5gal water intakes just for fun it has a purpose
I'm not sure I fully follow this due to numerous typos/spelling/lack of punctuation, but there are definitely things as an industry professional, I do not agree with. If you (anyone on this forum) are planning to modify your vehicle, do the research, educate yourself, and make informed decisions from verified sources. Too much misinformation on forums.
My current fi interchiller set up I have recorded fluid temps as low as -11c pre chargecooler and -9 post chargecooler
i have Banks sensors on my chargecooler flow and return pipework
My current fi interchiller set up I have recorded fluid temps as low as -11c pre chargecooler and -9 post chargecooler
i have Banks sensors on my chargecooler flow and return pipework
which components did you choose when buying the FI Interchiller… the website has quite a bit of items to choose from in the universal kit section. I know it’ll be stage 2 but not sure about the other options.
I scrapped my intercooler and went for the universal kit plus stage 2 and added the cwa400 pump and had a reservoir made
i also replaced/rerouted the flow and return lines and separated my system from the engine coolant and had a fill and vent tank made as well
since this picture I have spun the interchiller 180deg
much better for routing the pipes
u can’t do stage 2 if u are keeping your intercooler as there isn’t enough space
I’ve seen in this forum that the AWD FTR is about 3950, and I’m closer to 3900 with VAP’s 2-piece rotors. I’m assuming it’s 3850 once you add the 200 cell cats/downpipes and CF intake required by VAP for the TVS2300.
10.8-10.9 is based on others’ times, including VAP’s, with the same Stage 3 set-up, less the 2-piece rotors (to my knowledge). I’ll never know if it’s 10s because I’ve been based in Colorado since going from Stage 2 to 3 and adding rotors/TCU tune. I’m definitely not your guy for baseline data lol. My best 0-60 (sea level) was 3.3 seconds (done multiple times) at Stage 2 (no rotors or TCU tune) using Dragy on an unprepped surface - that’s really the only “official” time I have.
My curiosity around times is as a means to compare changes in the car’s performance and performance relative to other cars. If VAP, who ran a 10.9 at Stage 3, tells me this package (+cams!) takes it into the low 10s, that’s surely impressive, and not too far off a 911 turbo s, which is absurd. Especially given the 911 makes up most of its time 0-60, so 60-130 in the Jag would likely be terrifying - I want that…take my money.
Just about every model year FTR has a different reported weight. Now factor in driver weight. While that may remain relatively the same before and after mods, it still changes the actual baseline weight and would provide a more accurate estimation.
As far as times, I’m saying the more data points the better, regardless of elevation because it will still provide the community with valuable information. If data was openly available it’d be easier to see that 10s are the outliers rather than the norm with dual pulleys. VAP ran a 10.98 per dragy in actual street conditions. That’s one of few credible actual data points, rather than a conflated stars aligned time.
I understand that it would be way more enticing to buy a kit if it magically promised 9s. I completely agree with that. But also it’s important to support brands, within reason, that continues to develop our platform. A lot of us want more power, but a lot of us don’t really know **** about RND or engineering. VAP has consistently and continually developed our platform, so even if it’s not 9s now, who knows about the future. That being said, I’d encourage supporting them as much as possible so they continue to develop. It’s symbiosis, other car communities do it with great success
I'm not sure I fully follow this due to numerous typos/spelling/lack of punctuation, but there are definitely things as an industry professional, I do not agree with. If you (anyone on this forum) are planning to modify your vehicle, do the research, educate yourself, and make informed decisions from verified sources. Too much misinformation on forums.
Definitely is important for everyone to do their research, so let me do mine 😂.
As an “industry professional” what do you disagree with?
His post was probably written by talk to text, but with minimal effort his points are discernible
Definitely is important for everyone to do their research, so let me do mine 😂.
As an “industry professional” what do you disagree with?
His post was probably written by talk to text, but with minimal effort his points are discernible
Supporting modifications are 100% critical to getting the most out of a powertrain; that being said, they must be the right supporting modifications. Upgrading an exhaust by default isn't always the best move and can often make the engine less efficient. On non-turbocharged engines, often exhaust backpressure is a finely tuned tool for engineers to get exhaust velocity correct and subsequently assist in evacuating the cylidners of exhaust gasses. Go too big and you lose this benefit and can actually hurt efficiency/power. This goes beyond just exhaust systems and into all aspects of modification.
His comments on the efficiency of the 1900 series supercharger and RPM vs. boost pressure are just incorrect in my opinion. I'll need to dig up the pressure map, but as I recall, adding pulleys to this unit quickly spins the unit beyond its efficiency range which starts to starve the system for air and generates excess heat. This is a critical reason to upgrade to a larger capacity supercharger to get back into that efficiency range. Fundamentally you can lower the supercharger RPM while maintaining the same airflow and boost pressure because the unit can physically move more air per rotation. This gives you thermal benefits in addition to airflow efficiency. I don't see the 1900 unit ever reaching 900-1000 hp on the AJ133 because it simply won't be able to flow enough air.
For context, I work for Stellantis as a synthesis engineer and deal with thermal concerns all the time, but I'm hardly a thermal expert.
As far as times, I’m saying the more data points the better, regardless of elevation because it will still provide the community with valuable information. If data was openly available it’d be easier to see that 10s are the outliers rather than the norm with dual pulleys. VAP ran a 10.98 per dragy in actual street conditions. That’s one of few credible actual data points, rather than a conflated stars aligned time.
Since I'm in the process of doing dual pulleys, I'll post the "pre" data.
2017 F-Type R w/ new Pilot Sport 4S tires, on unprepared concrete road surface. Unfortunately, I don't know the fuel load, but the driver would have added about 210lbs. Hopefully, I will be able to do a run in the same location, post pulleys. Note that I will not be going to the TVS2300, at least not any time soon. Honestly the stock power is plenty for what I do with the car. The pulleys and tune are pretty simple "just cause" upgrades. Were I to jump to the TVS2300, it would be the end of the car as a daily driver and the start of its life as a dedicated race car.
Just about every model year FTR has a different reported weight. Now factor in driver weight. While that may remain relatively the same before and after mods, it still changes the actual baseline weight and would provide a more accurate estimation.
As far as times, I’m saying the more data points the better, regardless of elevation because it will still provide the community with valuable information. If data was openly available it’d be easier to see that 10s are the outliers rather than the norm with dual pulleys. VAP ran a 10.98 per dragy in actual street conditions. That’s one of few credible actual data points, rather than a conflated stars aligned time.
I understand that it would be way more enticing to buy a kit if it magically promised 9s. I completely agree with that. But also it’s important to support brands, within reason, that continues to develop our platform. A lot of us want more power, but a lot of us don’t really know **** about RND or engineering. VAP has consistently and continually developed our platform, so even if it’s not 9s now, who knows about the future. That being said, I’d encourage supporting them as much as possible so they continue to develop. It’s symbiosis, other car communities do it with great success
Not really sure where all of this is going but I have always been, and will always be, a supporter of VAP’s. I have a lot of their products on my car. I’m asking for performance data here to help support an understanding of the product’s benefits. If a kit costs $15k+ (parts and labor) and offers a few tenths, probably not for me. But their pricing was set based on R&D expense and expected demand…if that’s the market price, then it works and they technically don’t need me to purchase. Every company is symbiosis.
If the current pricing couldn’t sustain them, then they wouldn’t be able to give away margin via the Black Friday sales.
If they say low 10s is feasible (I never expected “magical 9s”), that changes my cost-benefit.
Supporting modifications are 100% critical to getting the most out of a powertrain; that being said, they must be the right supporting modifications. Upgrading an exhaust by default isn't always the best move and can often make the engine less efficient. On non-turbocharged engines, often exhaust backpressure is a finely tuned tool for engineers to get exhaust velocity correct and subsequently assist in evacuating the cylidners of exhaust gasses. Go too big and you lose this benefit and can actually hurt efficiency/power. This goes beyond just exhaust systems and into all aspects of modification.
His comments on the efficiency of the 1900 series supercharger and RPM vs. boost pressure are just incorrect in my opinion. I'll need to dig up the pressure map, but as I recall, adding pulleys to this unit quickly spins the unit beyond its efficiency range which starts to starve the system for air and generates excess heat. This is a critical reason to upgrade to a larger capacity supercharger to get back into that efficiency range. Fundamentally you can lower the supercharger RPM while maintaining the same airflow and boost pressure because the unit can physically move more air per rotation. This gives you thermal benefits in addition to airflow efficiency. I don't see the 1900 unit ever reaching 900-1000 hp on the AJ133 because it simply won't be able to flow enough air.
For context, I work for Stellantis as a synthesis engineer and deal with thermal concerns all the time, but I'm hardly a thermal expert.
Here's exactly the problem in this forum people worry about spelling,grammar and clearly dont know nothing about the main subject the moment I read the backpressure part that told me everything I needed to know lol im not going to explain how airflow works because obviously is a waste of time for me but just so you know instead of me doing research like you did ive taken the time an done things myself I had a cts v supercharger and have applied everything i learned from that car and guess what I have the 5.0 jaguar platform running 10.1 in the 1/4 almost traping 140mph so all these supporting mods you say are worthless seem to magically be working for me while you'll out there struggling to run 10s
If the current pricing couldn’t sustain them, then they wouldn’t be able to give away margin via the Black Friday sales.
I just want to highlight, that several of the components of the 2300 kit, are not things we have substantial margins on, and were not included in our sale for that reason. Just don't want people thinking they didn't get a sale price on something. For example, the tensioner, 2300 itself, water meth kit, etc. are all standard priced items.
you want parts developed for your car
but moan/critisize when a company spends time/money and research and development and then needs to recoup all the unseen costs before they actually make any profit
Vap are producing tried and tested products that are all then covered by their ecu tune for free after your first tune
why should a company have to explain why some of their products need to actually make them money???
you want parts developed for your car
but moan/critisize when a company spends time/money and research and development and then needs to recoup all the unseen costs before they actually make any profit
Vap are producing tried and tested products that are all then covered by their ecu tune for free after your first tune
why should a company have to explain why some of their products need to actually make them money???
Seems from Stuart’s comment that nobody was actually complaining. He just wanted to add transparency.
Not really sure where all of this is going but I have always been, and will always be, a supporter of VAP’s. I have a lot of their products on my car. I’m asking for performance data here to help support an understanding of the product’s benefits. If a kit costs $15k+ (parts and labor) and offers a few tenths, probably not for me. But their pricing was set based on R&D expense and expected demand…if that’s the market price, then it works and they technically don’t need me to purchase. Every company is symbiosis.
If the current pricing couldn’t sustain them, then they wouldn’t be able to give away margin via the Black Friday sales.
If they say low 10s is feasible (I never expected “magical 9s”), that changes my cost-benefit.
Simply put, Your expectations are off, and I’ll provide an example. If the tvs2300 ends up not being for you, go dual pulleys. The cost to power ratio is excellent. And when you’re done please share your 1/4 mile, which more than likely, will NOT be 10.8-10.9.
As times passes, there is a good chance low 10s and better will be more readily achievable. Boosted Ricky has proved it is possible without the tvs2300. With the tvs2300 who knows where it will land. But what we do know is two companies are developing it, so even if it’s not slap on 10.1 right now, it may get there in the near future. So let’s continue to support
Simply put, Your expectations are off, and I’ll provide an example. If the tvs2300 ends up not being for you, go dual pulleys. The cost to power ratio is excellent. And when you’re done please share your 1/4 mile, which more than likely, will NOT be 10.8-10.9.
As times passes, there is a good chance low 10s and better will be more readily achievable. Boosted Ricky has proved it is possible without the tvs2300. With the tvs2300 who knows where it will land. But what we do know is two companies are developing it, so even if it’s not slap on 10.1 right now, it may get there in the near future. So let’s continue to support
Dude, I’m stage 3 - please read the posts. I have the dual pulleys, and the TCU tune, and the rotors (to save weight). I want more. My decision as to whether or not to pull the trigger on the next level (TVS2300) comes down to the increase in performance. If increase in performance is X, I’m in.
And saying the dual pulley 1/4 mile won’t be 10.9 when VAP accomplished just that is a perfectly dumb comment. You’re just presuming that I can’t pull it off. Yes, you need the perfect launch and right conditions to do so, but it’s in the cards, and I’ve spent considerable time perfecting the launch…I don’t just smash the gas.
Last edited by ftype_rick; Jan 10, 2026 at 09:25 PM.
Dude, I’m stage 3 - please read the posts. I have the dual pulleys, and the TCU tune, and the rotors (to save weight). I want more. My decision as to whether or not to pull the trigger on the next level (TVS2300) comes down to the increase in performance. If increase in performance is X, I’m in.
And saying the dual pulley 1/4 mile won’t be 10.9 when VAP accomplished just that is a perfectly dumb comment. You’re just presuming that I can’t pull it off. Yes, you need the perfect launch and right conditions to do so, but it’s in the cards, and I’ve spent considerable time perfecting the launch…I don’t just smash the gas.
Slowdown buckarooo,
You know VAP isn’t the only one with that set up right? Most people with it are NOT running 10.8-10.9, like you were saying. That is my point.
In regard to your car, I am simply presuming you are most people. You said your best 0-60 at sea level was 3.3, with everything aside from rotors and TCU tune… with that data it is borderline audacious to think you’ll be at 10.8-10.9 under the same conditions lol
But by all means, please go check so we can step out theory and into practice
Slowdown buckarooo,
You know VAP isn’t the only one with that set up right? Most people with it are NOT running 10.8-10.9, like you were saying. That is my point.
In regard to your car, I am simply presuming you are most people. You said your best 0-60 at sea level was 3.3, with everything aside from rotors and TCU tune… with that data it is borderline audacious to think you’ll be at 10.8-10.9 under the same conditions lol
But by all means, please go check so we can step out theory and into practice
3.3 was Stage 2 (crank pulley and ECU tune) on unprepped surface. No SC pulley, TCU tune or rotors as I now have. I would be shocked if that didn’t shave 1/10th off. So 3.2 seconds on an unprepped surface. 3.1 or less on a prepped surface. This all seems very reasonable to me.
I’m not sure what the 0-60s are on these 10s runs but if they are 3.0 or higher, think you could assume 10s is immediately in the cards for me. The difference between people in and not in the 10s is practice and conditions, both of which we all have control over.
Regardless, as I stated at the beginning of this chat, I’m not interested in my ultimate times. I’m interested in what VAP, with a day of testing on a prepped surface, can get out of the car. If they can go from Stage 3 at 10.9 to TVS2300 at 10.X, that tells me the relative improvement via a controlled exercise. Further, if someone else has a similar before/after, I’m interested as well.
I’m done arguing over whether or not you think I’m personally capable of getting the Stage 3 setup into the 10s. I will, however, run a Rocky Mountain 1/4 mile with my VAP Stage 3 setup (+TCU/rotors) as a baseline…then we can argue in the future over the correct way to adjust for sea level.
Last edited by ftype_rick; Jan 11, 2026 at 11:20 AM.
