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Old Mar 27, 2017 | 07:43 PM
  #61  
Stohlen's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Unhingd
Use an impact wrench. It'll loosen the bolts without rotating the engine.


EDIT: On second thought it would have to be a right angle driver...not common.
Also not great for torquing them. But it may have to do.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2017 | 08:18 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by Stohlen
Also not great for torquing them. But it may have to do.
Yeah...pretty certain I would find a different way to torque them back on again.


Here's another thought: Raise one of the pistons to top dead center and fill that piston with motor oil and replace the plug. That will hydro lock the engine. After the job is done, you can vacuum the oil back out. Might get a bit of smoke out the tailpipe when you fire it back up.


Another: hold onto the center bolt while loosening the pulley bolts.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2017 | 09:07 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Unhingd
Use an impact wrench. It'll loosen the bolts without rotating the engine.


EDIT: On second thought it would have to be a right angle driver...not common.
Short of removing nose and radiator you are not getting any power tool in the area of the pulley. Trust me. I have 90 degree tools. As far as an automatic 48 ft lbs of torque is really not that much force. The engine compression alone would likely hold.
 
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Old Mar 27, 2017 | 10:09 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Stwsam
Short of removing nose and radiator you are not getting any power tool in the area of the pulley. Trust me. I have 90 degree tools. As far as an automatic 48 ft lbs of torque is really not that much force. The engine compression alone would likely hold.

So the crank pulley bolts are torqued to 48 ft lbs?
 
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Old Mar 28, 2017 | 05:09 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by NigelW
So the crank pulley bolts are torqued to 48 ft lbs?
Yes
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 06:31 AM
  #66  
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I have an XE V6 but Stuart has told me this below spec for the lower pulley but I think the XE has an advantage for the install since the hood opens normal, and there is a huge gap it seems to fit tools in from the top since the motor sits back far enough from the fans, etc.I could be wrong though as I didn't install mine just yet.

The torque spec on the crank pulley bolts is 200Nm.*

For the installation you’ll need to remove the front under-tray to access the front of the engine. Remove the pulley bolts, that’s a T50 Torx. There is a spring loaded tensioner for the supercharger drive belt and for the Alternator belt.

Remove the plastic cap from the idler pulley, unbolt (15mm socket) and reinstall the smooth idler pulley provided. Installation is the reverse of the above. Recommmend some loctite on the crank pulley bolts
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 07:02 AM
  #67  
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Is my math wrong because 48 ft lbs equates to 64nm and if Stuart is saying it should be 200nm that would be 147.5 ft lbs?

What are you tq ft lbs the 15mm idler pulley bolt to?

Something is not adding up.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 07:59 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by BigCat09
Is my math wrong because 48 ft lbs equates to 64nm and if Stuart is saying it should be 200nm that would be 147.5 ft lbs?

What are you tq ft lbs the 15mm idler pulley bolt to?

Something is not adding up.
200 nm is for the huge harmonic balancer center bolt (don't bother removing). 47 NM (35 ft-lbs) for the idler center bolt.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 08:44 AM
  #69  
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Agree.

I was also told 200Nm on the "crank bolts" (note plural) which suggest the 6 T50s, but as a few of you have said that is the center crank bolt.

48 ft lbs appears to be the correct value.

Perhaps VAP will weigh in at some point.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 09:41 AM
  #70  
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I doubt you could get that much torque on the torx bolts...
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 09:48 AM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by stmcknig
I doubt you could get that much torque on the torx bolts...

Indeed, which I assume is why we all balked upon seeing the number. Just didn't seem right for those bolts.
 
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Old Mar 29, 2017 | 01:42 PM
  #72  
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Stuart confirmed it was a typo, 48 ft lbs is correct.
 
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