Go to post #10 for the undate and new build with pictures.






SO I;ve started with the build. 3" alum 45 deg bend. 5/8" hole for breather hose with gromet. I used a 3 down to 2.5 coupler on the TB. Still need to weld the two halfs togeather then I'm gonna powder coat in flat black. I've also opened up the stock air box and duct. This keeps it a true cold air over a cone flter in it's place. The k&n panel filter I used has a CFM over 450 and that's more then enough for this engine. The stock CFM was about 300. More picures to come once I finish it.

 

Nice Job!!!! Thanks for sharing!!

I know the mods frown on this but, you should consider posting in the S Type Section as well. I say this because very few 3.0ers make it down here to the engine section.

 

Thx joycesjag, I'll post a link and see if the Mods poke me in the eye for it or not. I think this is good info for a DIY kind of person.

So I've finished the build, physically anyways and I can say that there is definitely a noticeable improvement in throttle response. After a few more miles I'll do some math on the MPG. Please keep in mind for anyone going to do this that there is only a negligible gain in HP. This is done mainly for economics, as well as cosmetics. Butt-dyno says this was a good idea though. lol

 

What does it sound like? Any different?

Feel like making another one?

Let me know...

George

 

It sounds much deeper then oem that's for sure, and you get the nice "wooshup" imediatly when you put for foot down, then the nice rumble.

As far as makeing another one, would not be a problem but I'm not sure if it's economical for you or not. I don't mass produce anything so I have no connections on a cheap powder coater or parts supply, I could always use a high temp paint color of choice? Most people could do this build. Of course I'd be more then willing to make a buck building it for you. lol But then comes the price...

Fittings, couplers, pipe w/ mandrel bend, gromet. I'd have to charge at LEAST 50 just for parts then like 20-30 for my little bit of labor, cutting, welding, surface prep & paint. Then shipping. You'd still have to buy the high flow air filter and mod the box, or send it to me N have me do it but then you'd be out.

Like I said, I'll do it no problem. But I can't see this as a "cheap" option. But to each there own. Let me know what you think.

Lucas

 

IF you don't mod the airbox and just do a K&N drop in you can go back to stock right? I really don't want to hack up the airbox.. I think we might be able to work something out.

Ironically I have access to a powder coat oven BUT not a TIG (I'm assuming that's what u need to weld aluminum) welder. My brother has a typical mig wire feed @ the shop but I've never really learned to weld. He tacks up stuff and then sends it out or gets one of his buddies to do the finish welds.

Let me know what your thoughts are on just replacing the tube / filter. Any CEL's BTW?

Take care,

George

 

No SES light yet, I've put just over 100 miles since I put it on. But yes you can leave the air box as is or mod it like I did. Either way it is easy to put back to stock, or appear stock. Don't change much at all just opens it up a bit, and you can't even tell from the outside. I don't chop holes or anything, just remove baffles and ribs. A K&N drop in is what I use as well.

So I guess at this point I've got no problem doing this. Just let me know how you want the finish to be, i.e. as is, prepped for paint/powder coat or painted to a color of choice.

Please keep in mind I'm not a production shop. lol I'm a Airframe Engineer with 12 years structural repair experience with metals and composites and I'm currently as Advanced Composite Materials Repair Instructor for the Navy and Marine Corps. I’ve been building racecars my whole life so I’ve got that as well. I’m sure it would not take more than 2 weeks at the most from start to finish. I’ve got to order some parts online. No local shop has a mandrel bender.

I’ll start putting numbers together to get a solid price I can do this for, to include a flat rate shipping cost.

 

I'm an EE, although I'm wasting my life away in IT.

Let me know when you have something concrete in terms of pricing etc and we'll go from there.

Also, any noticeable change in MPG or any side effects? CEL's etc?

Thanks again,

George

 

Sorry for the delay. I'm waiting parts. After doing some more digging, I've found a MUCH cheaper yet very nice way to do this. So I've ordered the new parts, going to fab it up this week and I'll post new picts to see if you are still interested. This changes the price from around $100 down to $50-$60 plus shipping.

Oh, and as far as the CEL's, aka SES lights. nothing with 250 miles on saince. MPG increase negligable, + .5-1 mpg. (Can't keep my foot out of it, I Avg. 20.5 90% city with the parking lot they call front gate Base traffic 5 days a week) IAT's drop much faster from idle to cruising. The biggest change is throttle responce, much better over stock. Idle in gear is also improved and much smoother. Plus as an added bonus is the sound. Nice low rubble with the "wooshup" upon WOT.

 

Here is the new design. Let me know what you think. I can get the parts much cheaper, plus I don't need a mandrel bender or welder. Just cut, chop, drill, fit, and assemble. All real basic metal working stuff. Then I can Paint to your choice, or you can paint or powdercoat to your choice. I'm going to go flat black powdercoat on mine to 1 match the engine covers, and 2 to help with heatsoak a little bit.

So the price, I've got just shy of $60.00 in parts on this design. If I'm going to do this I've got to make a buck or two. I think $30.00 for my labor would be more than fair. $90.00 pluss shipping, or $100.00 shipped which ever is lower. How's that for a deal? Let me know what you think.

Lucas

 

Good Job!!! SchultzLD. Deal's good to me. Let me in.

 

Just an FYI. I don't know why guys ben stuff them selfs. You can buy the tube already bent with the 45' in it online and most places sell it by the peice already bent & polished very affordable, well within the prices your paying now all you have to do is cut to fit. They also sell the boots and clamps so you could save in shipping.

This is what I use building headers and intercooler piping on the race cars. Nice stuff!

 

That is exactly the opposite of what you need to do. There is a reason people are advised to wear white in order to stay cooler.

 

qikcat~ FYI, If you actually read what I've posted then you'd realize that I ordered ALL parts online. Please read post in entirety before attempting to poke someone in the eye.

plumsauce~ What are you talking about? White is "cooler" because it reflects LIGHT, not heat. The powder coat regardless of color is primarily cosmetic, however it does add one more layer of a PHYSICAL barrier the ambient engine heat will have to penetrate, and outside are can keep cooler longer.

I've been very honest with the prices I've paid, where I got the parts, and what I'll charge if someone really wants me to build this for them. I've even said I really don't see this as an economic option as it is a DIY job with basic tools. But some people will pay for the convenience of someone else doing the work for them. To each their own. I've got plenty of experience and the tools. I don’t mind helping someone out. I didn't start this thread to get rich. If you actually read my posts you would see that it was intended as a DIY (Do It Yourself) custom intake build with pictures.

So with that being said…
I’m still up for building this kit for anyone that is interested. I don’t need a minimum group buy or anything like that. I’m not a shop or manufacturer, just a guy with experience and tools. Just send me a PM and I’ll get back to you ASAP.
Right now it looks like smkjunior and androulakis? If you two could get back with me and confirm, I'll get on it. I've got all parts supplies saved on contacts.

 

qikcat : I AM DIY person who had experiences like brake rotors and pads replacement, AC compressor replacement and etc. To me, the deal's still not bad. 3" to 2.5" 45 degree bent coupler is over $20 on ebay. A decent 3" to 3" hump coupler is $20 - 30. I need 3" metal pipe which I have to measure, cut and make an 5/8" hole. For sure, you can go with cheaper one with risk though. At least, SchultzLD prove himself that his system won't hurt our car.


SchultzLD : Somehow, I can't PM you now. I have a paypal account, so let me pay with it. My personal email is smkjunior@hotmail.com. Please send me an email with your paypal account.

 

You are still on new guy status so you can't PM yet. (3 posts) No biggi. You can use my email for "PM'ing" me. lol I'll send you my Paypal as well.

It looks like you did some good research, and it sounds like you know exactally what you'll be getting and that's good. But if you have ANY further questions, please feel free to ask before I order parts. ;-)

 

I did read your post hence my reading your comment in one of your post of doing it the new way so you didn't need a mendrel bender. I was simply stating you could buy the pipe pre bent. If you already knew this great. I wasn't "attempting to poke" you anywhere FYI.

Thank you though for the reminder that being friendly and trying to help someone out is always a bad idea.

 

Looks like a good set-up! Do you have any pics of the inside of the air box and what you have to it? Thanks.

 

I could if you really need them, but really all I did was remove all the baffels, foam, and random plastic ribs. (like a port on the intake box, lol) I did the same with the intake scoop, and I'm currentlly fabbing up a solid intake tube getting rid of that perforated one.

I also modded the plastic "L" tabs that hold the top box down so they are just streight tabs. This makes it SO MUCH easier to remove and replace air filter.

Still no issues, and I'm sure they never will be.

 

being a noob I can't send PMs,

but if you are still interested in making these for the 3.0, I'd be interested in buying one