Description:

The time has come to move on. I bought this car in 2019 and have put about 16k miles on it over the 4.5years. The car was regularly serviced by previous owners, but had deferred repairs which I've spent these years progressively fixing. These have all been typical issues that these cars suffer from. It has served my family as a weekend transport, but now I need more seats (or more parking space depending on your perspective). I will take more pictures this weekend, but wanted to get the add up now (wet your pallet so to speak). 

I’m asking $10k OBO. Maybe the market is softening, but the long term trend on BaT (https://bringatrailer.com/jaguar/x306-xjr/) is showing an upward trend over the last 5 years. This car has some gaps (although I think you are getting more detail here than a buyer on BaT), but is a solid CA car. I’m located in Yorba Linda.

Basic car history:
I am the fourth owner with the 2nd and 3rd being one family and all being in CA. The original owner traded it in at around 30k miles where it was purchased by a lady that then gave it to her grandson. He didn't have it too long as he wasn't a car guy (replaced with a rav4 or something like that if I recall correctly). I bought it from him. There are decent service records from the grandma until I bought it (30k --> 92k). I totaled up the part cost over that time and it was ~$14k (excluding labor). I made an excel summary of the records they gave me if anyone wants it (plus the original records). I didn't plan to sell and performed my own maintenance so I don't have such a nice paper trail. However, I can answer any question about the work performed. 

Overall this is a good driver. I think I've fixed almost every annoying issue and the next owner should be guilt free in putting more miles on her. This is a strong place to start if you want to enjoy the last and increasingly rare Jaguar I6!

Things I've upgraded/replaced/fixed:

-        Crank position sensor mount is the upgraded version for more power and fuel economy (advances timing)

-        Sunroof: there is at least one thread on this forum showing some of what I did. In short I bought a used full assembly and combined the best of both. I also reinforced a few weak points in the design. The only issue remaining is the motor pauses mid-way and needs a second push of the button. I'm not sure if it just needs more lube or a stronger motor. I have a few spares, but never tried swapping it as everything works otherwise. I also added some sound insulation on the inside of the roof while I was in there.

-        Headliner: recovered in an upper mid-grade Alcantara like material. I assume it's not really Alcantara, but it's similar in feal and appearance.

-        Windshield was replaced due to a crack. The new one has the blue tint at the top. I had called a number of shops to try and find the non-tinted (XJR OEM), but was unsuccessful. In hindsight I think the tinted version is better. 

-        Side and rear tint: 70% ceramic (this is the good stuff for heat rejection without being really dark)

-        Wheels refurbished: The finish was failing so I had them all powder coated. When I bought the car one tire would lose air over weeks. It turns out there was a bend in one of them which the shop was able to repair at the same time. The process they used was to strip the wheel, powder coat champaign for the center and between spoke color, machine a few thou off the front surface, and clear coat. This leaves an OEM look with machined aluminum main surface. They are perfect and look OEM to me and was $850.

-        New tires last summer. These are narrower than factory (245 vs. 255), but are quiet and help smooth the ride due to the taller side wall. Interestingly the original spare tire (which I have) is about the same overall diameter (and much heavier).

-        Replaced water pump, alternator, and crazy octopus radiator hose under the supercharger. This is the classically painful service. One of the hardest parts is removing the intake manifold due to an electrical connector that runs down through the center. I relocated these wires so that future service will be easier. This turned out to remarkably easy. The only thing it required was moving one ground wire. The rest could just be moved to the ends of the wire channel running over the manifold. I carefully wrapped everything with super 33+ electrical tape. I've had no issues after thousands of miles. This should just make someone's life easier later.

-        Replaced all 4 shocks 

-        Installed the XK8 rear suspension/diff support

-        Built a reinforcing bracket for the tilt motor on the steering wheel. The motor is held together with a crimping between the steel body and the plastic end. This joint appears to weaken with time and the motor stops working. I made a bracket that is sort of an exoskeleton to make sure it stays together. I don't claim it to be perfect, but it has been effective.

-        Replaced spark plugs

-        Annual oil changes with Mobil1 synthetic 0W40 and Hengst filters. I wasn't familiar with these, but they are large (larger than what I found at autozone for these cars). I only know about it because that is what was on it when I bought it. So, it seems to have been serviced well.

-        Replaced drive-shaft center bearing and guibo. I was hunting for a vibration at around 75mph which turned out to be the bent wheel that was repaired. The parts I removed weren't obviously bad and probably perfectly good, but I replaced them anyway.

-        Replaced many of the interior lights with LED's (center console and and dash mainly). 

-        Replaced the clock ribbon cable that always fails. Combining this with LED's means it should live a long life due to less heat to fail the glue

-        Headlights and taillights are LED's now. This does throw the warning light when braking or with lights on due to the taillights. I can swap it back if this is of concern. The taillights were inexpensive, but I did splurge for good LED's from Precision LED (no $50 amazon special)

-        Replaced both power steering hard lines and the soft line up to the reservoir. It now has mobil1 synthetic fluid and in total cured an occasional stiff steering I would get and a slow leak that had turned into a drip

-        The middle exhaust hanger was missing so I made one out of Delrin

The not so good:

-        Brakes have some shudder. It has been there since I bought it. It's not terrible and seems to come and go. I inspected the rotors on a lathe and they seemed it good condition. Since the problem never got worse I just figured I would replace the disks at the next brake job, but never got there. I would say it tends to be more prevalent when the brakes are hot. 

-        The paint was redone by the grandma. It's a single stage paint that I've struggled to keep shiny. A good buff by someone who knows what they are doing should do the trick. The exception is right below the driver's read door where paint has started to fail. It wasn't an expensive pain job. I was entertaining the idea of wrapping the car. When they painted the car they didn't remove the door handles. This meant paint was covering the gasket behind the door handles. These gaskets were also in various levels of failure so I carefully removed them. This required cutting the paint seam which went well (door handles look good and no damage to body). However, this left an imperfect surface on the body. To make this work I took some sticky back foam rubber and applied it to each door handle. This foam had enough extra width to cover the imperfections on the body. I bet you wouldn't even notice these weren't factory if I didn't mention it and it hides the corners cut in painting

-        The rear diff has a slow leak out the pinion. I bought the seal and replacement nut, but never got around to installing it. I did replace the diff oil so it's not at risk of running dry soon, but this does result in a thin layer of dirt on the rear cross brace

-        The oil pan has a slow leak that results in a few drips when parked. I’ve also replaced the oil pressure switch at least 5 times. It seems to leak after a year. I tried a different brand last time which seems to be holding so maybe all is well finally.

-        The exhaust connection joint between the down-pipe and the rest will come lose over time. It looks like someone at some point ground the factory weld off to enable this clamp to be free. I can only guess that this was in an attempt to prevent the exhaust from coming lose, but it didn't work. I have a shim between the clamp and the exhaust to try and provide more clamp load, but inevitably it pops lose after about a thousand miles. I've become good at laying on the ground and reconnecting it. There is probably an easy fix that has eluded me.

-        The radio is on the way out. I bought the cable and adapter that will allow an aftermarket radio to plug-n-play, but didn't find the radio design I like. This is now up to you

-        The rear heated seats don’t heat up. Electrically everything works (buttons turn on 12V at the connector to the seat). So, I assume the coil is bad in the rear seat. I never dug deaper.



 I’m sure I’ll think of something else, but that’s a good start. Thanks for looking.

Daniel