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My Manual/Overdrive rear mounting. Excuse the dust. Totally rust free car. Total interior respray. Very light coat of stonechip on floor only, as an extra anti-drumming agent prior to full Dynamat.
Example of short spring ~ mine had 2 more curls that I settled on.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; May 30, 2023 at 12:25 PM.
Thanks. For that information. I do not remember why I did that. Could be the incorrect part. I assume that rod is threaded at both ends. I also had to add threaded holes in the BW66 bell housing to attach the front mount on the firewall. The XJ6 mount was attached to the bell housing at the transmission case. I assume that the current mounting will be OK. I just realized part C30177 is the XJ6 rod threaded at both ends. That is why I used the nut and washer at the rear mount. Will source the unthreaded pin.
Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
Your rear mounting is going to transmit vibration into the car. The centre rod just floats in the lower bush. No nut, no washer ~ no splitpin etc.\
Thanks. For that information. I do not remember why I did that. Could be the incorrect part. I assume that rod is threaded at both ends. I also had to add threaded holes in the BW66 bell housing to attach the front mount on the firewall. The XJ6 mount was attached to the bell housing at the transmission case. I assume that the current mounting will be OK. I just realized part C30177 is the XJ6 rod threaded at both ends. That is why I used the nut and washer at the rear mount. Will source the unthreaded pin.
The rod/stem should not be threaded at both ends. A threaded stem would wear the rubber bush in no time. I just have a dub of rubber grease on my stem although not required ~ belt & bracers.
A few very early S Types used the virtually straight mount. They were crap. They then moved to the deep dish, longer spring as did late Mk2's, 240 & 340 for manual & auto. NVH peace ensued.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; May 31, 2023 at 08:58 PM.
Glyn, in your photo from the underneath I'm curious as to what that black coloured mounting is behind the Gear Selector Bracket. The BW66 parts diagram I have, just shows the lever, washer & nut?
Is that an electric wire running to it?
I think I've dug myself into an expensive hole with this XJ6 rear mounting bracket, should have got the MK2 S Type rear mount!!
I'm sure I've read somewhere where a guy fabricated a rear mount utilising the old DG & XJ6 mounts, fabricating a unit to pick-up the 4 mounting holes.
Not sure on the BW66 box but on the BW35 you will have the reverse immobiliser switch in that area. On the older cars with the DG250 box this was under the dash but for the BW35 gear box it was moved on to the side of the gearbox. What you are referring to with the electric wires is possibly the immobiliser unit and corresponding wiring.
This is the inhibitor switch on the BW35 as seen through the inspection panel with the gearbox in place. The switch is just above the gear lever but on the BW66 it might be the item you can see behind the gear lever.
Glyn, in your photo from the underneath I'm curious as to what that black coloured mounting is behind the Gear Selector Bracket. The BW66 parts diagram I have, just shows the lever, washer & nut?
Is that an electric wire running to it?
I think I've dug myself into an expensive hole with this XJ6 rear mounting bracket, should have got the MK2 S Type rear mount!!
I'm sure I've read somewhere where a guy fabricated a rear mount utilising the old DG & XJ6 mounts, fabricating a unit to pick-up the 4 mounting holes.
Pierre
Take picture into MS Paint & point out what you mean (right click and it will say open with. Once you have placed your arrows save as another picture & post). That is a BW DG250 gearbox (DG = Detroit Gears. The DG250 preceded the Model 35 on the S Type and the Model 8 followed on the 420 due to torque considerations) with hill holder/anti creep solenoid. It holds the back brakes on, on a hill or before you pull away by maintaining pressure in the rear brake line. It has a throttle switch at the carbs for release.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; Jun 1, 2023 at 02:18 PM.
rsddi, still following your lead on this conversion.
I’ve now got all my components together & just waiting for my mechanic to allocate a slot for me in his busy schedule, hoping for next week.
The only thing left to do is to sort out the speedo cable.
Have you looked at this yet?
I assume the speedo end of the cable will remain as is but the BW66 speedo drive end of the cable will need to be reworked to suit that drive.
Length of the cable will also need to be checked as well once the vehicle it’s up on the hoist & the BW66 is fitted up.
Again, assume there are instrument shops that can do that work.
Any comments/suggestions appreciated on this point
cheers
Pierre
My memory is vague. The BW65 used a different speedometer drive than the BW66. I believe the BW65 used a cable and the BW66 an electric sender. The drive gear ratios are also different. I am planning to use the BW65 speedometer drive. I am planning on using a rebuilder who will also provide the correct speedometer drive. Unfortunately I cannot find the contact information. It has been years. He may be out of business. I will look at my notes. If I find the information I will post it.
My BW66 definitely has the cable drive with the right-angled gear attachment. at the tranny. Don't worry rsdssdi, I was just curious as to what you did.
I'm sure there is an instrument tech in OZ that will have the knowledge on converting this cable to suit.
cheers
Pierre
