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Using my Haynes manual I'm down to unbolting the driveshaft and removing the gear box cross member. I used a washer and rod through the dowel as instructed. I then unbolted the cross member to hopefully give me better access to the drive shaft bolts. My question is how does the cross member attach to the mount so I can remove it? This is my first foray into a Mark 2 so please be patient. Car is a manual no overdrive.
Haynes takes bits and pieces from the Jaguar service manuals to condense things.
While this may seem like a money saving feature, it makes the Haynes manuals incomplete, and the missing bits can make things very frustrating.
Ordered a factory manual. In the mean time I've gotten my engine out. Question is when I was trying to remove engine and gear box out the top the engine stabilizer kept fouling on the throttle cross shaft. After bending the crap out of it I finally got the engine out. What's the correct manner to deal with this? I ended up taking the throttle shaft loose on the right hand side to lower it?
The easiest way to get the engine in and out (albeit more work) is to remove the front suspension crossmember and drop the engine out of the body onto a trolley, raise the body and then lift the body up higher and remove the enginer from the front.
This is dependent on circumstances. Engine & gearbox come out of the top with little difficulty. No need to disturb the front sub-frame & suspension unless it requires attention. I do hope Cass shows you his most civilised arrangement. You need someone under the car to guide the tail-shaft of the gearbox so you don't dent the scuttle/firewall. No pictures of it actually going into the car as I was acting as ballast on the engine hoist. Seat belt webbing worked for us. Sliding through a hoop/hook to adjust angle.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; May 5, 2022 at 05:57 AM.
Dropping the engine out the bottom is far easier, especially if doing it on your own and the fact the OP has bent the shaft at the rear of the engine for the automatic gearbox/throttle linkage removing his shows why.
The front subframe drops out with little trouble, if you leave the callipers piped up and just unbolt from the hubs and hang up inside the inner wings you don't even to have to bleed the brakes.
I've taken 5 engines out of these type of cars over the years and after taking the first one out of the top I would never do that again as its a heavy old lump to have swinging around, especially when refitting into a nicely painted engine bay.
This my engine going in the top using an engine hoist and an adjustable cradle that allows the engine to be tilted from the vertical to horizontal. Made it really easy for two of us to lower the engine into place with the gearbox attached. Sorry I do not have one of the engine in the vertical position but was too busy worrying about its precarious state to bother with photos at that stage.
Dropping the engine out the bottom is far easier, especially if doing it on your own and the fact the OP has bent the shaft at the rear of the engine for the automatic gearbox/throttle linkage removing his shows why.
The front subframe drops out with little trouble, if you leave the callipers piped up and just unbolt from the hubs and hang up inside the inner wings you don't even to have to bleed the brakes.
I've taken 5 engines out of these type of cars over the years and after taking the first one out of the top I would never do that again as its a heavy old lump to have swinging around, especially when refitting into a nicely painted engine bay.
Just my 2p.
We found it dead simple and easy to do from the top. Horses for courses. I have never done one from below. It's not necessary ~ Refer the Jaguar Service Manual.
If you don't have lots of vertical space above the car and a solid hoist point or engine crane then the dropping the front end and engine out through the bottom is the way to go.
However make sure you have a couple of friends, preferably rugby or gridiron football players to lift the front of the car over the now grounded engine.
Been there and done it both ways. Depends on your circumstances.
Cheers
My engine is out through the top. My question was how do you keep from fouling the throttle cross bar by the engine stabilizer? Now that it's out no worries except I have to put it back in. The stabilizer kept hanging up on the cross bar. I was barely able to reach in and remove the stabilizer. Not sure what to do going back in.
My S Type is right hand drive with the BW35 Auto box and does not have the throttle cross bar going across the bulkhead so I did not encounter this problem.
If this is a problem then why not do a bit of both. Chock the body up and remove the front cross member and wheel it out from under the car. This will now allow the engine to drop in from the top at a steeper angle with the gearbox going in steep and deep. Once in deep lift the tail of the gearbox up and into place whilst lowering the front of the engine on to the engine mounts. This should keep the back of the engine away from the throttle linkage. Once in wheel the subframe back into place and bolt it up. In the past I have used this method successfully being able to adjust the height of the body in relation to the engine by use of jacks which means you can lower the body to the floor to allow the engine to go over the grill then once the engine is hanging in the engine bay lift the body up to the height that suits you best. The engine and gear box are so big and heavy it can be very daunting but as long as you have a decent engine hoist it should not be a problem.
As for the rear stabiliser you just have to struggle with it. There is little or no room to get at it and I have no idea how they did it in the factory although if you have removed the battery heater box and pipes you do have a lot more room to get down the sides. I had to change the upper bush last year on mine with the heater box in place but pipes off which was doable with the bonnet off lying across the engine but the bottom bush would have to be an engine out job just for sanity. So attach the bottom bush with the cross bolt to the top of the bell housing whilst the engine is out of the car then when you lift the gear box up you can thread the top of the stabilizer through the top bush and do it up with small hands and a lot of patients.
This shows the engine in place with a close up of the stabilizer top bush at the back of the engine.
My S Type is right hand drive with the BW35 Auto box and does not have the throttle cross bar going across the bulkhead so I did not encounter this problem.
If this is a problem then why not do a bit of both. Chock the body up and remove the front cross member and wheel it out from under the car. This will now allow the engine to drop in from the top at a steeper angle with the gearbox going in steep and deep. Once in deep lift the tail of the gearbox up and into place whilst lowering the front of the engine on to the engine mounts. This should keep the back of the engine away from the throttle linkage. Once in wheel the subframe back into place and bolt it up. In the past I have used this method successfully being able to adjust the height of the body in relation to the engine by use of jacks which means you can lower the body to the floor to allow the engine to go over the grill then once the engine is hanging in the engine bay lift the body up to the height that suits you best. The engine and gear box are so big and heavy it can be very daunting but as long as you have a decent engine hoist it should not be a problem.
As for the rear stabiliser you just have to struggle with it. There is little or no room to get at it and I have no idea how they did it in the factory although if you have removed the battery heater box and pipes you do have a lot more room to get down the sides. I had to change the upper bush last year on mine with the heater box in place but pipes off which was doable with the bonnet off lying across the engine but the bottom bush would have to be an engine out job just for sanity. So attach the bottom bush with the cross bolt to the top of the bell housing whilst the engine is out of the car then when you lift the gear box up you can thread the top of the stabilizer through the top bush and do it up with small hands and a lot of patients.
This shows the engine in place with a close up of the stabilizer top bush at the back of the engine.
As far as i'm aware the factory put the engine in from underneath and I assume it had the stabiliser already on it, thats how i've always done it and putting the engine in is easy and risk free whereas dangling it off the end of a crane trying to get the engine at the right angle is more difficult, there is more risk of damage to the paintwork and you really need at least two people to do it, ideally more.
If the OP wants to put it back in the way it came out then the balancing tool that cass has is the tool for the job, for me I would never do it that way as its just making life difficult and in my experience of the one I did and the OP's experience it ends up bending the throttle linkage.
Each to their own and all that, of course the best thing to do is to pay someone else to do it.....
It all depends on the equipment you are using/have at your disposal & the ceiling height above your workspace. Auto or Manual, LHD or RHD.
We used a standard engine crane, wheels off & the car on axle stands. RHD, Manual with Overdrive. Cass has a RHD Auto.
We were ultra careful with the pristine new paint job. Both engine compartment & body. Zero damage done. One person under the car to guide the OD tail-shaft flange.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; May 5, 2022 at 01:50 PM.
Take the throttle cross bar out, it takes a bit of contorting though. There may be some rivets to drill out, you'll see when you get in there.
Removing the seats makes it easier, once the seats are out, use lots of packing blankets to lay on.
My engine is out through the top. My question was how do you keep from fouling the throttle cross bar by the engine stabilizer? Now that it's out no worries except I have to put it back in. The stabilizer kept hanging up on the cross bar. I was barely able to reach in and remove the stabilizer. Not sure what to do going back in.
Remove the stabaliser rod from the assembly ~ 1 bolt
Remove the stabaliser assembly from the gearbox/bellhousing ~ 4 bolts.
Those are your options or increase tilt of engine/gearbox. When putting engine & gearbox back in the car. Replace the stabaliser assembly while engine/GB is tilted adequately for easy access to mounting bolts.
The manual tunnel is narrower than the Auto tunnel. The Auto tunnel allows more working space.
We installed my Engine MOD with the stabaliser & rod already mounted ~ no problem whatsoever.
It sounds as if you have your car standing on it's wheels which restricts tilt. Put it on axle stands at appropriate height to achieve adequate tilt. I suspect the Service Manual Pic I displayed above was with the car standing on it's wheels but over a working pit which was the norm back then. Although a trolley jack is shown. Depends where you are over the pit.
BTW ~ ours we made a 3 man job with one under the car, one operating the engine hoist & me as ballast as we were at the limits of that specific hoist.
Good luck!
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; May 6, 2022 at 07:43 AM.
Engine Removal Jaguar 340
