Does anyone know, please, how to get this flap out of the heater body in a non-destructive way? So how to pull out the rod that turns the flap? Thanks.

 

I just went through this with my 420. Assuming yours is the same...
The end of the rod that you can't see had a bracket brazed to it. I used my MAPP gas torch to heat it up and pull it off.
The flap is brazed to the rod and if you heat it up with a gas torch you can should be able to work it free. I could not sufficiently heat the entire length of the rod to free it. In the end I had to cut it out.

 

I had a similar issue when I rebuilt mine, I made some new flaps in the end, my heater was totally rotten and in the end I fitted it with a large fan and heater matrix from a modern car. I've not tested it yet but i'm hoping it will be a lot better than standard.

 

In South African built cars the heater matrix/radiator & main radiator where made out of brass by Silverton and after cleaning remain as good as new. I sent mine in for cleaning & pressure testing & they said it was as good as new and sent it back with a nice fresh coat of black paint. That rod unfortunately is as Thorsen explains.

 

What fan and matrix did you use?

 

The fan is UK Ford Mondeo MK4 (I had to make the fan housing bigger to fit this) and the matrix is a Jaguar X-Type. I had to remake the front plate for the heater but it was rotten already so no great loss.

Just need to sort out a heater resistor and wire the fan to a larger power supply via a fuse and some relays to use the original switch.

Testing on the bench at full power its a huge amount better, just have to hope it doesn't blow the heater vent hoses off.

 

Thanks. I thought it would be like that. I will probably go the same way,
I'm just afraid that it is soldered with brass and it will be harder to heat up. At worst, I'll cut it out and make a new rod.

 

I ground the brazing down using a power file like this I https://www.toolstation.com/black-de...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

I then made a new flap as mine was rotten.

 

Interesting:

https://www.screwfix.com/p/evolution...der-230v/54960

I bought this one two weeks ago to help with finding, drilling out, and generally removing the spot welds in the LH rear spring hanger of my Mk2. It looks as though whoever welded it together was killing time to avoid going on to his next job. Or maybe he put a lot of extra spots because he was working with his eyes closed? The other side was much easier, though I was younger then.

 

Thanks guys. I will go the destructive route (cutting), a brass torch needs oxygen and a temperature of around 1000°C. Otherwise, I use BOSCH (picture) for small cutting and grinding. It's small, just for one hand, battery-powered, powerful.

 

Solved. Somewhere in the back of my mind I assumed there must be a non-destructive easy way. And is. I heated both ends of the rod to a red color using a propane butane torch. This burned off the rust in both the hole and the rod. I sprayed it with rust remover and reheated it after a few hours. I can already turn the flap with one finger. Tomorrow I will repeat the process and lubricate with WD. I think this could be a happy ending for this little thing. And all that's left is the rest of the car

 

As my old dad would have said, now you can jack the heater up and replace the rest of the car around it!