MK2 bracket identification
#1
#2
That part belongs on a car with a standard transmission.
It does use the nuts on the head, of the head studs to hold it place, but has nothing to do with the air cleaner.
It's used to connect the solid and flexible hydraulic clutch line that goes down to the clutch slave cylinder.
It's mounted at the back on the studs nearest the firewall.
It does use the nuts on the head, of the head studs to hold it place, but has nothing to do with the air cleaner.
It's used to connect the solid and flexible hydraulic clutch line that goes down to the clutch slave cylinder.
It's mounted at the back on the studs nearest the firewall.
#3
#4
You're welcome, remember to add some proper Jag washers when you remove the unnecessary part.
You don't want the head nuts biting right into the aluminum, plus they also need to be there to get an even torque spec. when tightening down the head.
The threads need to be clean as well (clean enough so you can thread them on with your fingers)
Don't forget to grease them as well.
You don't want the head nuts biting right into the aluminum, plus they also need to be there to get an even torque spec. when tightening down the head.
The threads need to be clean as well (clean enough so you can thread them on with your fingers)
Don't forget to grease them as well.
#5
washer placement
The engine was rebuilt. The washers which resemble a "clipped oval" are under each nut. But should the washer be on top of the engine lifting fitting? The builder has the washer on the top of that lifting fitting. Originally they were round washers on top.
Examining the pictures of the engine prior to disassembly and rebuilding, there is a round washer under the acorn nut and the lifting fitiing. While the air cleaner mounting fixture has round washers under the tabs of the fixture and the nut only on top of the tab.
It may be possible that there is a washer under the lifting fixtures but it appears there is none. The other nuts (without fixtures) have the clipped oval washers under the nut. Where there is contact with the head.
To further complicate this issue I will be adding a bracket under the two front left head nuts. This is to hold the bolts and spacers for the A/C bracket. The complication is that I will have to balance the lifting fixture as the left leg will now have a 1/4" metal plate under it. The right side leg will have to have "shim" washers to level out the fitting. I have some 7/16 washers that are through hardened. I wonder if I will have room (stud height) for a washer on top or on bottom of the plate to spread the load.
Bob
Examining the pictures of the engine prior to disassembly and rebuilding, there is a round washer under the acorn nut and the lifting fitiing. While the air cleaner mounting fixture has round washers under the tabs of the fixture and the nut only on top of the tab.
It may be possible that there is a washer under the lifting fixtures but it appears there is none. The other nuts (without fixtures) have the clipped oval washers under the nut. Where there is contact with the head.
To further complicate this issue I will be adding a bracket under the two front left head nuts. This is to hold the bolts and spacers for the A/C bracket. The complication is that I will have to balance the lifting fixture as the left leg will now have a 1/4" metal plate under it. The right side leg will have to have "shim" washers to level out the fitting. I have some 7/16 washers that are through hardened. I wonder if I will have room (stud height) for a washer on top or on bottom of the plate to spread the load.
Bob
#6
Don't get too carried away with this, just so long as the acorn nut doesn't come in direct contact with aluminum.
Weather that aluminum is the head or the lifting hooks.
And the washers should be on top of the engine lifting fittings.
Torquing down the acorn nut directly on the aluminum lifting hooks will cause them to "mushroom" a bit and some slight "galling" may take place.
I suppose you could put a thinner steel washer between the head and the lifting hooks if you want, but I don't think that will be necessary.
While I'm here too (as you may know ) after the engine is driven and temperature has reached to normal operating specs, it will be necessary to re-torque the acorn nuts once the engine has fully cooled.
I usually repeat this process as many times as necessary until they no longer torque to what is specified in the manual.
I'll check my lifting hooks and see how they are attached.
As for you bracket, you may be well advised to make some studs that are a 1/4 inch longer or have some made.
Weather that aluminum is the head or the lifting hooks.
And the washers should be on top of the engine lifting fittings.
Torquing down the acorn nut directly on the aluminum lifting hooks will cause them to "mushroom" a bit and some slight "galling" may take place.
I suppose you could put a thinner steel washer between the head and the lifting hooks if you want, but I don't think that will be necessary.
While I'm here too (as you may know ) after the engine is driven and temperature has reached to normal operating specs, it will be necessary to re-torque the acorn nuts once the engine has fully cooled.
I usually repeat this process as many times as necessary until they no longer torque to what is specified in the manual.
I'll check my lifting hooks and see how they are attached.
As for you bracket, you may be well advised to make some studs that are a 1/4 inch longer or have some made.
Last edited by JeffR1; 04-17-2015 at 08:28 PM.
#7
head studs
I have not seen any reference to replacing the studs when installing the A/C head bracket. I will ask several parts sellers if they noticed the two front left studs being of greater length.
I thought that would be necessary as the acorn nut is a fixed thread length and the plate is a rather thick 1/4".
I examined the JCNA judges guide for a/c and I did not see any reference to replacing those studs. I may have missed it.
I will post my progress. The plate is out for powder coating and the standoffs are at a machine shop to be faced off and made equal length. The length dimension I have seen on other installations is 2.255". I will get my standoffs square and as close to that as possible. They did crush or wear unevenly at one end. It is a possibility they are a bit soft.
Bob
I thought that would be necessary as the acorn nut is a fixed thread length and the plate is a rather thick 1/4".
I examined the JCNA judges guide for a/c and I did not see any reference to replacing those studs. I may have missed it.
I will post my progress. The plate is out for powder coating and the standoffs are at a machine shop to be faced off and made equal length. The length dimension I have seen on other installations is 2.255". I will get my standoffs square and as close to that as possible. They did crush or wear unevenly at one end. It is a possibility they are a bit soft.
Bob
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