Hi Guys

Just joined the forum and I'm sure I'll be making a new thread soon as I'm loosing water from the rad overflow, i'll take a look at the weekend. Anyway a few pics of my car on this website
dissjaguar - Home


Regards

Graham

 

very nice!

you adapted a overflow tank/container? my S type has one too but it doesn't leak. Where is the water loss coming from exactly? could be something as simple as a cracked container, or a loose hose at the bottom of the container, etc. Or a bad radiator cap.

 

Hi Jose

It's coming from the rad overflow pipe, I'll take a look at the weekend, not had a chance yet.

Cheers

Graham

 

Silver Gray with Chrome Wires - that's a proper Jaguar!
Graham

 

Very very nice and classy too.

I see it takes pride of place in the garden

 

Graham she looks very nice

 

Hi Guys

Checked out the overflow for the rad and fitted a new cap, may have been overfilled/the cap as I had a small loss and now it's fine with water temp constant. Onto the next problem now, Dynamo charges when it feels like it, or the ammeter reads when it wants to, not sure which yet though.

Graham

 

if the battery is not being discharged, it's probably the gauge / ammeter. My '65 S type still has the original Lucas dynamo / generator and it works fine. If you need it rebuilt and don't have a rebuilder near, send it to Star Auto Electrics in California.

Star Auto Electric Company - Generator Lucas

 

Water loss from the rad overflow when recently refilled is not unusual it will find its own level and should then stop.

If not it sounds more serious as you are pressurising the rad usually form a failed head gasket.

Hope this helps.

 

Seems to have settled now and no leaking, temp is steady as well, thanks

 

Check your fan belt tension first. ESPECIALLY with a coolant issue that might have gotten anti-freeze on the belt. Then, check all connections on control box (regulator) and generator.
Next, if still acting up (and I'd guess not the gauge), pull the generator and check the brushes and springs. See if A) you have sufficient brush left, B) the springs are good, and C) there isn't any buildup in the guides causing the brushes to stick.
Check the ground connection carefully from battery/block to chassis for regulator grounding. Corrosion there, the regulator cannot see the proper voltages.
Dave

 

Look at the voltage regulater you will need a volt meter
To set it up check the manual they are quite easy
To play with .

Regards

 

Hi Guys

Spent some time cleaning all connections, checking grounding and cleaning the points in the regulator and now she charges, I get the odd drop now and then but not like before. Onto the next issues, horn and heater blower, I'll start with the cleaning connections routine.

Cheers, thanks for the help

 

Keep at it Graham and keep us updated

 

Quick update on the MK2, everything was working well and we were enjoying weekend trips (50-100K's), a friend asked if I would take his daughter to the end of year school dance, no problem, well disaster actually. The brakes decided to stick on, I only had 2 k's or so to go so pushed on just to get her there, that then overheated the clutch and we didn't make it, she turned up in a Fiat 500!!. Still not sure what the problem is as once we trailered it home the problem had disappeared, checked the self adjusting handbrake which seem OK so I'm looking at the servo now as all the pistons move freely in the callipers and there are no leaks......well I look after Christmas.

Seasons greetings to you all and safe driving.

 

Had some time over Christmas so I started looking at the problems, carb issue turns out to be a leaking float and a slightly bent needle in one of the carbs, I haven't driven the car yet but it ticks over nicely now so fingers crossed, one rear spring is being reset as it had sagged and I should get that back by the weekend. I'm convinced the erratic charging is due to the regulator so a new one is on it's way from the UK. I cured the sticking brakes by having the master cylinder honed and a new piston set fitted, so all in all I'm hopping for some reliable motoring this year, fingers crossed.

 

eventually one gets all the bugs fixed and the car is reliable for a good number of years, it sounds like overdue maintenance.

 

I think some is due to bad repairs by local contractors eg the master cylinder was honed before rebuilding, but obviously not very well. Rectifier probably just age, I've fitted a new one so I'll get the old one overhauled and keep as a spare. The other little nigglies are just tests set by the Jaguar God to see if we can keep faith in old cars.

 

Hi everyone

Just an update on the Jag brakes, I thought the master cylinder re-hone had sorted my brake problems (sticking on after about 50k's) but unfortunately not. Next place to look was the brake booster, but on inspection I could not find anything wrong. I took it to a specialist who rebuilt it (it was rebuilt about a year ago) and said there was a seal that was not seating correctly, I still don't understand from the conversation with him how that caused the brakes to pressurise, but I'm no expert on boosters. Anyway fitted the booster fired up checked everything and noticed the brake fluid was low, so went to the shelf get some to top up, got back to car and there was no brake fluid in the reservoir but a lake of it on the garage floor. One of the rear callipers had leaked all it's fluid.
Stripped the calliper and took it to a re-sleeving company who measured the re-sleeving that was carried out during the build and it was not in tolerance (same company who did all the sleeving on the car!!) anyway after sourcing a new seal it's all back together and we will find out this weekend if I have finally cured the issue.
The joys of owning a classic car. Mind you once out on the road all those problems will be forgotten.
Enjoy your motoring, I'll update again soon

Graham