Hi there
I am here in Belgium and last week acquired a 65 daimler v8250 in relatively good overall condition but non running,,,,,problem is the battery was connected backwards I replaced the fuel pump and it works with ethe ignition turned on
but nothing else works,,no lights,,,indicators,,,blower and no instrument panel lights work etc the engine turns and am checking the spark tomorrow,,, also there appears to be fuel leaking down one of the 2 metal pipes, attatched to the carb pots as if something is blocked and leaking down via the pipe under the car,, most importantly wondering did the reverse polarity do much damage? Thanks

 

I'm not familiar with the Daimler's, but it's possible it was converted to negative ground. That's not difficult to do, assuming it's a generator, not an alternator. Again, assuming original specification I think the fuel pumps are not polarity sensitive. For sure the lights and starter are not.

If you have fuel coming out of the overflow tubes on the SU carbs that means either the floats have sunk ( common), the float level is out of adjustment, or the float valves are leaking. Depending on the age, that is also common. If thy are unknown, I'd probably overhaul the carbs and replace the jets and float valves and clean and reset everything properly.

 

re-polarize generator and voltage regulator to Negative Earth so it doesn't happen again. Easy procedure.

Procedure here:
https://starautoelectric.com/instruc...ing-generator/

 

In addition to Jose's recommendations I suspect you have a blown fuse.
The Daimler 250 is basically a MK2 body (with modifications) and similar electrical systems.
There should be two fuses under a cover adjacent to the voltage regulator. Note that these are the only fuses in the car.
I would check there as the symptoms you describe are typical of a blown fuse.
Cheers

 

Thanks to you guys for the replies and expert help,,,Ive checked the fuses and both are fine,,,, still nothing works,,,,,my proirity is getting it started and moved into my garage as it is baking hot here in Belgium,,,over 32 some days and the inside of the old girl is suffering,,, Re positive earth issues,,,,am I right in assuming that the dizzy rotates anti clockwise and if the battery is connected corrected for positive it would accordingly turn thus on cranking ,,, which it is? another issue is the coil Ive just noticed there is a brand new lucas coil fitted,,, with plus and minus terminals,,,,found a box in the boot with old 3 old coils,, and with a multimater I see both the primary and secondary windingins are fine,,,the thing is these old ones have sw and cb on them,,,I presume the wrong coil is therefore on it as I read somewhere positive earth cars need a higher ohm coil that have sw and cb on them,,,,very confusing,,,,still am perservering it trying to move her today,,,,,thanks againg to you all for the help,,, cheers for now

 

Have you put a continuity meter across both fuses? Sometimes fuses look OK but are broken under their end cap & not making connection. Otherwise check earth strap/s (between body & engine) & wiring on under hood/bonnet starter solenoid. Prove to yourself that you have spark at the plugs.

The coil is unlikely the problem. sw and cb are just power/ignition switch & contact breaker (points). Today just marked as + & -. The car will run either way although not ideal.

 

From memory, the lighting circuit isn't fused or isn't on my 1963 Mk2. I think the supply comes off a terminal on the control box. If there's been some electrical problems, there may be some disconnections there.

 

Thanks Peter I will check that tomorrow,,,still trying to get it started as there is no spark from the distributor,,, I suspect the points arent insulated correctly via the washersand finding it impossible to get a diagram ,,,but will check out the control box first thing tomorrow and again thanks for the help,,,,

 

Fit & gap new points and capacitor as a matter of course. Check that the centre brush in the distributor cap is in good order & making contact with the rotor.

 

Peter is correct. The lights are not fed via the fuses. I was focused on the blower which is definitely fused via the 'ignition auxiliary" fuse.
Check that you have volts at the B terminal of the regulator which is a major junction for everything.

 

RB340 Voltage Regulator. See B - B that Bill refers to i.e. No1.

 

Thanks Glyn and peter for your expert help,,,, ok checked the B terminal and do indeed have 12v with ignition on,,,, however Alll the remaining terminals have 0 V is that normal?

 

To my knowledge yes without the generator/dynamo running. Let's get confirmation from Bill. I'll do some checking in the meanwhile. I would expect voltage at the WL (ignition light) terminal with ignition on.

 

 

 

Just took a photo of something strange,,, theres a black wire with copper flex on the loom just below the starter solonoid that was obviously connected to something and has been cut,,, I suspect someone was fiddling around trying to figure this out before me,,,plus the 2 feeds to the coil someone has put a red collet on one ,, which of these goes to the points?

 

As I said earlier check connections at under-bonnet starter solenoid. That looks a bit of a mess. I will check wiring diagram.

 

I would expect to see a white line to the coil & then a white & black line to the distributor/points. That is S Type. I don't have a high res diagram for a Mk2/Daimler. What colour line do you have to the coil? (SW)

Do you have a Daimler Service Manual? Mk2 Service Manual also shows a white line to the coil & then a white & black line to the distributor/points. I would replace engine compartment sub harnesses ~ Not main harness.

 

I suggest
1/make sure the wires to the coil are not touching any earth.
2/turn the ignition to on.
3/using your multimeter check that one wire has 12 volts. That should be connected to the sw or + terminal of the coil.
4/once you have determined this you can turn the ignition to off.
4/using your multimeter set to the ohms (resistance measuring) connect to the other wire and rotate the engine using the push button on the solenoid. That should give you a pulsing effect of going from short circuit to open circuit if the points are working OK.
5/that wire can now be connected to the CB or - terminal of the coil.
cheers

 

Listen to Bill's wise advice and do that first.

But I want to get back to the subject of harnesses. I replaced EVERY harness on my car right down to the interior lights. The insulation was in poor condition especially the plastic covered wiring from the heat of the African sun ~ under hood/bonnet replacement is a no brainer.

A friend did a beautiful restoration on his Mk2 only to lose the whole car to a fire caused by the electrics because he went cheap and left the old & rotten harnesses in place. The entire Mk2 wiring is only protected by 2 fuses. The car was hopelessly under insured vs. it's true value & he got paid out a pittance for all that hard work, by his insurers.

Then there is the matter of fuse values to consider.

Warning ~ Fuse values


Remember that Lucas fuse values of 35 & 50 amp etc are old British 1 second blow standard.

Fuses you buy today unless you order specially are American Carry Current rating.

In modern fuse values you should select a fuse of approx half the value of the Lucas rating shown in Jaguar Manuals on our era of cars.

e.g. Lucas Horn fuse on an S Type = 50 Amps. In modern US rated glass fuses you should fit 25 to 30 amp max.

Failure to do this could cause a fire in our car's wiring in case of a short.