Difficulty Level: Southern vehicles easy
Northern vehicles tougher due to rusted/seized parts
Tools Needed: Tape measure, 3/8 ratchet, 7mm and 15mm socket, 8mm 13mm 15mm 18mm wrenches (ratcheting optional), 7mm wrench or vise grips, phillips screw driver, the old 7/8" open end wrench was used instead of a 19mm or 20mm (?) open end that I do not own (used for jam nut on tie rod), a couple of zip ties.
Time: under 2 hours, but again if working on a northern vehicle allow for seized nuts, plan on alot of PB Blaster before hand.

**Remember you will need an alignment after this procedure!** The sooner the better.





After stabilizing rear end in the air (jack stands) and wheels removed. Loosen Tie Rod Jam Nut. Using tape measure, I measured from female threads on inner tie rod to the mark on the wheel assembly. Noting the measurement for later use.







Next using the 18mm box wrench (here is where a ratcheting wrench works the best) and the 8mm box end, remove the inner tie rod nut. Then move to outer tie rod end using the 13mm wrench and 15mm socket. Pull bolt out and remove tie rod assembly.






Start inner tie rod nut, align outer tie rod with phillips screw driver, push in and insert bolt.






Torques: Inner Nut 100Nm (74 ft. lbs.)
Outer Nut 55Nm (41 ft. lbs.)

Now using your previous measurement, adjust tie rod.

I purchased aftermarket Tie Rods through Motor Cars Ltd, just shy of $100.00 ea.

If you are planning to replace Rear Sway Bar Links see post #2

 

Ok moving on to the rear sway bar links.

First off there are different part numbers for the right (OE XR81692) and left (OE XR81693) sway bar links. I compared the 2 side by side and couldn't notice a difference. The above OE numbers were taking from the aftermarket package, so if they are incorrect let me know. Again the links were purchased through Motor Cars Ltd., $20.00 ea.

If you are planning on changing these and the tie rods together, I removed the tie rod then the sway bar link, replaced sway bar link then tie rod.

I used the zip ties to hold up emergency cables out of the way. Using the 7mm socket and 15mm open end wrench loosen the upper retaining nut. The rubber grommet is difficult to work with, remove nut.




For the lower sway bar link I used vice grips on the 7mm end, (I do not have a 7mm wrench in my arsenal, I know shame on me) and the ratcheting 15mm wrench.




Install new sway bar links, snip zip tie.

Torque: 48Nm (35 ft. lbs.)

 

Another great how-to write-up, Rick....

I will always remember you clueing me in to look for this issue back in the spring of 2009 with the photos you posted of joycesjag's cracked rear boots. Jan's boots looked just as bad as Joyce's boots did, which really surprised me for a vehicle that had perhaps 25,000 miles on it at the time. I had our local dealership fix it under the factory warranty that was still in effect back then. The 2009 rear boots still look good and the car has held the 4-wheel alignment that it received as part of the fix remarkably well....

Thanks again....

 

I wonder if the Lincoln LS parts are the same? They sure would be much cheaper!! They look the same.
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Can't resist criticizing the northern vehicles eh Rick? Still fighting the civil war are we ...

LOL just kidding. Good Job man... How did you know you needed them?

Take care,

George

 

Up north we use this penetrating oil called Blaster and an air gun. If that don't work just fire up the torch.

Wonder if there is a source for the boots? Ours are cracked but I can't imagine the actual end joints being shot at 20thou.

 

Got a big problem - get a bigger hammer

Take care,

George

 

Nice stuff , to be FAQed once it's completely done

 

Great write-up!

If those are what & where I think then mine are sooooo rusty you wouldn't believe

 

Mannn you guys are killin' me. I can't win, almost every thread like this, I put an approximate time and I receive flak for not allowing for seized bolts either publicly or via PMs.

In this case the seized bolt/nut vehicles could become a PIA, unless of course you are lucky enough to own a set of torches.

stars and bars baby

 

Ignore any such moans!

(Wasn't me LOL - everything rusts like crazy here, almost never cold enough or dry enough to stop it plus lots of salt on the roads)

 

Rick,

Your first four pics are just red Xs the first one I see is the one with the 8mm and 18mm wrenches, this is with IE9 I tried Firefox and nothing shows up at all.
Is it just me?

 

Thanks norri, I am working on the photos.

 

The version I know is - If in doubt use a hammer, the bigger the doubt, the bigger the hammer.

Rick, I see it's a work in progress, the first pics are good now and the others have gone.
I'll wait for the final reveal!

 

Edited now I believe and completed.....gotta be FAQ'd

I'll change the threa title to show this and one of the mods will no doubt FAQ it shortly

Nice one Rick and thanks for posting!

 

All Done.

 

The $500.00 in new Michelin Sport rear tires.

Plus they aged the vehicle when looking at the profile!

 

Thanks so much for this sweet write up! Made the job easy.

Used this today and completed the sway bar and link replacement in 3 hrs. Don't have ratchet wrenches so that is what me so long, plus had to cut one of the threads on the old sway bar as the nut was completely seized and I stripped the 7mm head. All the tips were perfect.

 

Dang Rick! Did you plagerize your write-up from Jaguar's repair manual? Nice job dude....

 

Sir Rick u r Great... great work, Great guidance...