Hi Friends,

I Have a 2006 S Type R here in Brazil and my air condioning is only blowing cold air, very cold air.
I Have the touch screen in my car.

The air conditioning gas é ok as the oil in the compressor.

Do you have any guidance on where to start ? And how to check sensors, etc

 

check if someone installed a block off on the heater core lines.

if no both valves on the dccv are stuck closed which is a lot less common than it being stuck open. climate control module traces are burnt up regardless. easy fix

 

Welcome to the forum.

Cold air only? This is unusual. The typical fault is poor cooling, or often hot air (warmer than ambient) on one side. So even though your specific fault isn't covered in much detail, take a look at this troubleshooting guide:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/

What happens when you increase the desired temperature until HI is displayed? This is manual mode for maximum heat and bypasses most (but not all) of the automatic controls. This mode is very helpful for troubleshooting.

 

Ooh, this is an interesting take! I had never thought of this. Consider this scenario:

Owner A experiences the common DCCV failure, with full heat at all times on one or both sides. A quick and dirty "fix" would be to plug the coolant lines feeding the heater core. Full AC is now the only option. There's no way to adjust the duct temperature, but full AC may not be a problem in a warm climate.

Owner A forgets all about or hides this "fix" when he trades in or sells the car. Owner B purchases the car, totally unaware the coolant flow to the heater is blocked off. He investigates the lack of heat, and even throws a few parts at the problem, not knowing the system has been jury-rigged.

So if your car is new to you, and the heater has never worked during your ownership, consider a previous jury-rigged "repair".

 

No help but that is really cool to have a STR in Brazil!
You must be one of one.

Maybe post up a picture or two of yours?
Note you will need a few more posts before your allowed to upload pictures. But stay around as this is a great forum for a STR owner!
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Thanks for the help ! I will try to check this in a few days and I will post what happened....

 

Thanks so much for the guide. I will help a lot here... I will let you kown what was the problem afert I dig into it !

 

I really hope that is the problem... I will let you know.

 

We have 23 or 38 STR´s here in brazil. The facelifted models are minority.
Lots of then were armored when new, so they are almost garbage know due to heavy alterations.

Mine is in mint condition: 32.000 Km.
Here are some photos:

 

the link does not work

 

Now It´s working ! Sorry

 

Very nice! When you get a few more posts put a few pictures on the forum so they will stay alive. All the stuff like what your posting on will crash and burn eventually and all the pictures will be gone.

You can see what photobucket did to this forum and thousands of others when they changed things and now all those old uploaded pictures are gone! At least if uploaded to the forum the pictures will last as long as this forum does. We have a huge number of threads without pictures now because of this business model. Free is never free.
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My recently-acquired 2001 S-type 3.0 V6 in Southern California has this problem, too: great A/C but no heat. How do I check for a blocked heater core line and what is the "easy fix"?

 

My 2001 S-type 3.0 V6 blows cold air as it Is supposed to. It does not blow any hot air, neither warming the cabin nor defrosting the windshield.

As I look through the excellent troubleshooting guide, I noticed this statement: "A dual sunlight sensor is installed near the front edge of the dash, at the base of the windshield. It detects the amount of sunlight reaching each side of the car."

I understand that my sunlight sensor is not working because when I turn my headlight switch to "automatic," my headlights come on regardless of sunlight. They are always on when the headlight switch is on "automatic."

Is it probable that a faulty sunlight sensor is preventing my heater from engaging? How do I repair or replace my sunlight sensor?

 

Interesting observation. I'd never considered what sensor controls the automatic headlights. I'm not aware of any other light sensors, so it must be the same one.

One minor caution: I'd have to dig through my notes, but I thought the solar sensor could only modify the temperature output by a few degrees. In other words, it can not shut off heating or cooling entirely.

Could be you have two active faults. One is with auto headlight control circuit, quite possibly the light sensor. For the lack of heat, that may be a separate fault, still undetermined.

For the heat, what happens when you increase the desired temperature until HI is displayed? This is manual mode and bypasses most automatic inputs such as the light sensor. Have you tested the DCCV yet, per post #2 at the troubleshooting guide? That should tell you if the DCCV is able to send hot coolant to the heater core.

 

Thanks. I have been working on the assumption of a faulty DCCV because ... well, that's always the problem, right?? ;-) But caught this piece of information and want to accept or reject that possibility. I'll check heat again, but last time I was playing around, I believe I turned heat all the way up without any difference.

 

[For the heat, what happens when you increase the desired temperature until HI is displayed? This is manual mode and bypasses most automatic inputs such as the light sensor. Have you tested the DCCV yet, per post #2 at the troubleshooting guide? That should tell you if the DCCV is able to send hot coolant to the heater core.]

Driving long enough that the temp gauge hits top dead center (as it always does), I turned up heat to HI, turned on AUTO, turned off AC, vented to dashboard vents. No heat. The vents blow out room-temperature.

I've gone through the troubleshooting guide when I first encountered the problem during winter a few months ago (winter isn't hard to deal with in Los Angeles), then have been putting off the inevitable. I'll go back and look at post #2. I was hoping it could be something simpler and cheaper.

I understand a little bit that on my 2001 S-type 3.0 there is a valve system reachable by removing the glove box, and it's supposed to be possible that a vent door is stuck. I haven't tried that yet.

Winter is returning, so I better get at it. :-(

 

the headlamps have their own sensor this isn’t a GM.

dccv is stuck shut or heater core’s been bypassed

 

Keep in mind the temperature gauge is deliberately misleading. From approximately 180-230F, the needle is centered. If the actual coolant temperature is at the low end of that range, you may not feel a whole lot of heat.



I highly recommend one of those little thermometers, inserted in the center dash vent. Some numbers will really help with troubleshooting, for comparison to ambient. You may be getting a little bit of heating but that would be tricky to discern with the back of your hand.







Please run the full test of the DCCV. Specifically, you'll want an infrared thermometer to confirm two important things:

The temperature of the coolant hose feeding the DCCV

The temperature of the hoses downstream of the DCCV when commanded to send hot coolant to the heater core

Please note the specific instructions of how to test, starting with a cold engine, etc. That test was written in response to the more common condition of full heat at all times, but will also help with no heat.



No valve system under the dash, at least within the engine coolant system. There are some flapper doors that direct airflow to the various outlets, but those don't control temperature. They can change where the air exits into the cabin, but not the temperature.

 

Right you are. I did a little digging through the wiring diagrams:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource


Figure 06.1 shows a "Dual Solar Sensor" for the climate control system. Connector SL1.

Figure 08.1 shows an "Autolamp Sensor" for the exterior lighting. Connector SL2.


No idea which sensor is which on the top of the dash. The locations for both are listed as "top of fascia".

Back to the no heat problem. I think the failure of the autolamps is a separate fault.