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bad rotor front driver side

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Old May 15, 2011 | 10:02 AM
  #1  
trauch's Avatar
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Default bad rotor front driver side

Over the last week my wife's S-Type 2000 has had a progressively worsening grinding noise on the driver side front brake. I have been out of town and just returned to take a look.
I replaced the front brakes less than 2 years ago and when I removed the tire the frontside brake pad looks good and the front surface of the rotor is fine.
I cant see the backside brake pad but when I feel the back surface of the rotor I can feel that it is severely grooved.
I am not sure what caused this but know it has to be replaced. (fyi, the front passenger rotor is fine).
I cant find the detailed instructions that I used to replace the brake pads and am not sure how to replace the rotors.
Does anyone have detailed instructions (with or without pics)?
 
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Old May 15, 2011 | 10:42 AM
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Mikey's Avatar
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Get a copy of the JTIS if you're going to undertake this job- BUT! Simply replacing the rotor and pads won't cure the basic problem. The caliper is designed the slide laterally on a pair of pins to accommodate pad wear. Yours is seized in place and using only the inner pad for braking.
 
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Old May 15, 2011 | 12:59 PM
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What Mikey said. Your pins are not doing there job. So your gonna have to redo the pads and get a new rotor that way you will be all good again. Oh yea and fix the pins. I'd just get new ones and make sure you grease them and they are working properly.
 
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Old May 16, 2011 | 08:32 AM
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Yeah, if you didn't grease the pins the rotors can't "float" and yours are stuck on the inside position wearing down the back side of your rotorand your inside brake pad.
 
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Old May 16, 2011 | 12:49 PM
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trauch's Avatar
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Thanks guys for your replies.

I replaced the brakes and rotors and all seems well (no squeeling and neither side seems to be sticking). However, I am a bit confused as to which bolts are the "pins".

The smaller bolt that you need to remove to access the brake pads was a bit rusted but not too bad. I cleaned this bolt, added lubricant, and reinserted.

Likewise, the 2 bolts that keep the caliper in place were removed. They were somewhat difficult to remove but were in relatively good shape. I cleaned them, applied lubricant, and reinserted.

Are these two bolts the "pins"?

The only other bolt was one that ran down the backside of the caliper.
 
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Old May 16, 2011 | 01:20 PM
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I havent seen the regular S types brake to know exactly how they are but when you turn in the piston then remount the caliper you should be able to move the caliper back and forth after being tightened. Whatever its sliding back and forth on is the pins.
Hopefully this helps the longer portion is your pins that sit where the rubber boot is on the bracket for the caliper you should be able to push these back and forth. You can pull them out and clean and lube them. Reinstall them and slide the boot back into the grove so they will protect them. Then the small bolts there are what bolt the caliper on they actually screw into the pins.
Hope this helps.
 
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