My subframe is broken (fractured). Wondered why I had a clonk on the rear. Now I know why!
Does anyone know if it is possible to fit the later s-type subframe in my early model please? I can’t seem to find a decent early replacement.

 

the diff cv and spindle has to moved over 100%

some of the subframe mount bushings are different but it should still bolt in

 

Thanks. That is helpful.
Has anyone actually tried it?

 

is there a photo of this fracture? Thanks

 

 

I’ve bought a later one in excellent condition. Now I must wait for it to arrive from the USA. Thank goodness for the dry states! All the UK ones are quite rusty.

 

Looking forward to the next episode too

 

It arrived by Fedex today! Amazingly fast delivery. Part cost: $140+Tax
Postage: $388
total cost to me £575


Looks in great condition
I’ll paint it in 95% zinc galvaniser, then 2K gloss black, followed by a thorough waxoil inside and out. That should stop it rusting like the old one!

One thing I noticed is how thin the steel is. No wonder the old one fractured after a little rusting. I would have thought it should be made in metal at least another millimetre thicker. Also the quality of finish isn’t good; it has weld spatter all over it and only the thinnest coat of paint. Poor show Ford/Jaguar! Try harder next time.

 

Excellent, though I am still wondering how you missed the deterioration of that one. Looks like it took a while for it to get that bad. Anyway, you have the replacement and I am sure it will be fixed soonest. Post cost more than the part?

 

I new it was rusty (bought it like that) didn’t realise how thin the metal was. I had planned to remove the rusty one, clean, paint and waxoil it. Since I had previously looked underneath it had obviously deteriorated. It only started clonking for a couple of weeks. If I had jacked her up for a looksie I would have spotted the problem, but I was too busy. My mistake; I should have looked before assuming it was a worn bush!

Yes postage was way more than the part cost. But when you look at ones in the UK it is nearly £500 for a rusty one! It was worth getting a non-rusty one considering how thin the metal is. If it was an Audi or a Merc it would not be so flimsy! But an Audi or a Merc would have less character. I guess that is the price you pay for valuing style over function.

 

i think it is normal to assume worn bush, or hope it is just worn bush

 

By the time I have finished fitting it, all the rear suspension bushes will have been replaced by polyurethane ones (another major hit to the wallet!). I won’t bother replacing the subframe and diff bushes; they look and feel practically perfect.

 

Sportston: Just curious... Where in the States did the replacement sub-frame come from? It looks to be in really good shape!

 

I don’t know. Noma Auto parts was the seller. Found it on ebay. After looking at the pics I thought I won’t find another like it, so bought it.

 

I got my vernier gauge out and measured the subframe. Most of it is made from 2.5mm metal with the odd bracket made from 3mm. No wonder they rust and fracture easily! Methinks they should have made it all from at least 3mm thick corten steel, possibly 3.5mm. It might weigh more and cost more to produce but at least it would be stronger and would last a reasonable while. Judging by the amount of negative replies to my parts queries, it seems half the S-types in the scrapyards are there because the subframe is beyond redemption.

 

good to know, thanks. will have to check mine

 

Looking at the import slip, it says it came from Wills Point, Texas.

 

Mine was surface rusty so wire brushed it and applied Fertan; waiting for a chance to apply primer and top coat.

 

Looks good. I haven’t heard of Fertan before. It sounds interesting.

 

It is supposed to convert rust into ferric tannate. I do not know what ferric tannate is but have seen this in action years ago, and it seemed to work. Mate used it to fix his floorboards.

Chemtech: Other Products - Fertan