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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 10:49 PM
  #21  
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I don't intend to hijack this thread, but I also have a 2003 STR with 173,000 miles on it. I do not have any CELs on and I done a quick scan and have no codes. However, when I take it above 2,000 rpms, something awful happens. It seems like the car is going to explode, I take my foot off the gas right away and it stops (this is all in less than a second) and NO code stays on anywhere. I believe I get a fast gearbox light on the dash but that's all. So is my torque converter, transmission or both dying? I did get a quote over the phone to have it rebuilt for between $3,500-$4,500. In all honesty, the car is in pretty good shape other than that. Thanks for any feedback and sorry if I hijacked this tread. Please feel free to let me know if I should start a new one instead.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 03:11 AM
  #22  
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Just in case that could be a flashing MIL, that would be cat-damaging misfires.

It can't always flag codes but will try to protect engine, cats, etc & show its distress.

Could be bad coil(s), blocked cat(s), air leak etc, if it's misfires.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 07:23 AM
  #23  
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Default Bad torque converter - engine stall?

* Have to make a big repair decision tomorrow: sorry for bumping the thread again, but want to make sure my last question doesn't get buried. Appreciate insight.

P0741 is the only code showing. Can the torque converter being bad typically cause the car to stall at low RPM (what my wife said happened)? I ask this because a few months ago, it was cutting out like this and I had a bunch of codes to the ignition coil, and the Jaguar dealer did find a broken wire in the harness behind the right front wheel. Fixing that wire made the problem go away. Having this old issue is placing a seed of doubt as to what this torque converter nonsense is capable of.

It's clearly not safe to drive. I want to know which issue to go after first. Since the torque converter is such a big and expensive job, I'd hate to have that done to 'stop the check engine light coming on and off' and to clear the P0741 code only to find out that there may be something else wrong in the wiring harness since this issue could leave me stranded.

Again--P0741 is the only code. Can a bad torque converter often cause an engine stall at low rpm? (2003 STR, 38K miles).
 
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 09:07 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Scottish Chap

Again--P0741 is the only code. Can a bad torque converter often cause an engine stall at low rpm? (2003 STR, 38K miles).

As far as I am aware, no.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 09:23 AM
  #25  
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Related question: what are the fuel trims (engine hot), especially at idle?

Many stalls are due to an air leak, which will usually show in the trims.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 12:11 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JagV8
Related question: what are the fuel trims (engine hot), especially at idle?

Many stalls are due to an air leak, which will usually show in the trims.
Definitely not hot.
 
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 12:50 PM
  #27  
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Sorry Scottish Chap but it's definitely the TC. Search my previous thread and find a very qualified mechanic to perform the work for you. You can get the TC rebuilt for not much however the labor is the most expensive part. Plz ensure they mark the driveshaft position as it attaches to the transmission so they reinstall it in the same place. Good luck and post back with results. Again search my thread for fluid info etc...
 
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 01:21 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by rasputin
Sorry Scottish Chap but it's definitely the TC. Search my previous thread and find a very qualified mechanic to perform the work for you. You can get the TC rebuilt for not much however the labor is the most expensive part. Plz ensure they mark the driveshaft position as it attaches to the transmission so they reinstall it in the same place. Good luck and post back with results. Again search my thread for fluid info etc...
Thanks so much, time to bite the bullet...
 
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 01:22 PM
  #29  
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To add to that be sure and replace ALL the bolts and nuts in exactly the same position they were before removal. Jaguar uses them as a balance weight for the drive shaft. If you inspect them they are usually marked with dabs of paint too.

I also agree it's the TC. You have done a good job of troubleshooting and you have a code that keeps coming back. It's time!
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 02:11 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by rasputin
Sorry Scottish Chap but it's definitely the TC. Search my previous thread and find a very qualified mechanic to perform the work for you. You can get the TC rebuilt for not much however the labor is the most expensive part. Plz ensure they mark the driveshaft position as it attaches to the transmission so they reinstall it in the same place. Good luck and post back with results. Again search my thread for fluid info etc...
Your symptoms don't seem similar to Scottish Chap's at all, aside from the code.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 10:46 AM
  #31  
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Thanks all. I'm being quoted a price of $1800 for a Jaguar TC and a bill estimate of $3225 for other parts and labor and this is more expensive than what the Jaguar dealer quotes. Rasputin indicated that Trans Specialties Transmisisons in NJ sells the 2003 STR TC (TS-JZF26RR) for around $500. Has anyone else used parts from this place to verify quality? How did it work out for you, Rasputin?

Also, the shop recommends a new flush and filter of the transmission in case there are shards of the TC seal in there. I personally don't hear any sounds, but am happy to do this since I don't think at 38K miles this will have been done.

Please let me know your thoughts.
 

Last edited by Scottish Chap; Mar 13, 2014 at 10:57 AM.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 12:54 PM
  #32  
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I would call these guys.

The CTSC - ZF Parts

I have not found anyone who knows more and carries more ZF parts than Claus. He does not like to talk on the phone but E-mail works well.
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 09:24 PM
  #33  
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If it helps anyone, I did take the car on the freeway tonight; at 50mph, I hit the gas, and saw the rev needle fly up disproportionately to the torque felt (and I could hear the spinning of what may be an unengaged transmission below me). Probably the TC spinning independently?....even though I've not seen the "gearbox fault" and check engine light for a week.

Also, I re-read codes after my wife's engine cut out (twice) and as well as the P0741 code I'm now too familiar with, I'm also getting P0351 and P0358 which I know may be an issue with the engine coils. Recall that a couple of months ago I had the engine cut out a few times and read a bunch of codes to the engine coils (a broken wire behind the front passenger wheel arch was repaired and the issues went away). Seems like it was not quite remedied, and I actually have TWO separate issues at once now.

Last shout out to the informed: have any of you ever seen 0351 and P0358 as part of a TC issues with engine cut-out or is likely a second issue?

More to follow....
 
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 11:22 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Mikey
Your symptoms don't seem similar to Scottish Chap's at all, aside from the code.
Pre-TC install, same exact symptoms and codes...post symptoms is something I will follow up on soon.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2014 | 11:54 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Scottish Chap
If it helps anyone, I did take the car on the freeway tonight; at 50mph, I hit the gas, and saw the rev needle fly up disproportionately to the torque felt (and I could hear the spinning of what may be an unengaged transmission below me). Probably the TC spinning independently?....even though I've not seen the "gearbox fault" and check engine light for a week.

Also, I re-read codes after my wife's engine cut out (twice) and as well as the P0741 code I'm now too familiar with, I'm also getting P0351 and P0358 which I know may be an issue with the engine coils. Recall that a couple of months ago I had the engine cut out a few times and read a bunch of codes to the engine coils (a broken wire behind the front passenger wheel arch was repaired and the issues went away). Seems like it was not quite remedied, and I actually have TWO separate issues at once now.

Last shout out to the informed: have any of you ever seen 0351 and P0358 as part of a TC issues with engine cut-out or is likely a second issue?

More to follow....
Per JTIS (you should download JTIS):

P0351 = Ignition module primary circuit malfunction cylinder 1. Possible ignition high resistance, possible ignition coil failure. Max engine speed inhibitied, fuel injection cut off cylinder 1.

P0358 = Same as above but cylinder 8.

If you can, get someone to test your coils and make sure they are bad. I was able to buy 8 new coils for around $350.00, and the coil tester was $90, so I figured why not replace all 8. Search my post on this for more info. Good luck!
 
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Old Mar 14, 2014 | 04:16 AM
  #36  
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P0351 etc can be wiring issues and with the previous known wiring issue I'd be looking again at looms. Electrical Guide shows quite a lot about the layout, splices, etc but beyond that it's hands on.

Various gearbox faults are induced by engine ones but P0741? Never heard of it but you're in rare territory with the wiring fault(s) you've had (& may have).
 
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Old Mar 22, 2014 | 09:19 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by JagV8
P0351 etc can be wiring issues and with the previous known wiring issue I'd be looking again at looms. Electrical Guide shows quite a lot about the layout, splices, etc but beyond that it's hands on.

Various gearbox faults are induced by engine ones but P0741? Never heard of it but you're in rare territory with the wiring fault(s) you've had (& may have).
The wiring loom was taken our and inspected and it was fine. It was a loose fuse! Easy fix. Codes went away, and no problems since. Curiously, the P0741 codes never came back and the check engine light never came back on. I have the same TC... Will keep you posted.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 12:25 PM
  #38  
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Wow - thanks for saying. Which fuse (& in which fuse box)?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 01:13 PM
  #39  
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A bad TQ can make the car stall at low rpm.
If it was locked up it could and most probably would, drag the engine down at idle.
Radical cars use high stall speed (slippier with respect to the engine at rpm below their stall) to allow them to idle at high speeds the cams and engines need,
I use 2500 rpm stall convertors on my yank stuff On full throttle launches it allows the engine to flash instantly to 2500 rpm before the TQ starts acting
Results in some violence......
 
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Old Mar 25, 2014 | 02:00 PM
  #40  
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It is truly scary how many supposedly knowledgeable shops diagnose failing transmissions in these cars that actually turn out to be electrical or engine issues with simple and relatively inexpensive fixes. In your case, a blown fuse. In other cases, a failing battery....

I would never allow anyone to dig into our ZF 6HP26 boxes until I had exhausted all possible electrical and engine causes....
 
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