Well, then, you made your point. And obviously comments from my side are not welcomed. I tried...

PS: An '05 S-Type is indeed a "precious" car. You probably don't even now that the bonnet is made out of aluminium (just one idea). I actually do not believe that ONLY changing the ATF will make a difference (if you do not have a leak and the ATF is low). But you will see...

 

i've been using this AUSY (Total) Brand in the ZF for years with no probs . it 's what Ford NZ use in all the ZF6HP26 falcons and territory's . and its cost effective .
and my local ZF guy uses it in all his ZF6 re-build's.
TOTAL

FLUIDMATIC LV MV

type in jaguar in the search and scroll down to desired model . .


https://totaloilnz.co.nz/lube-guide/

 

What's the exact name of the "total oil brand" ATF you use in 6hp26?

 

I just edited it in to my post you can look up there spec sheet in the link

 

Hi Andy,
I looked into Total FLUIDMATIC LV MV
I take it you are open to constructive feedback?
Well, it is clearly better then Dexron III, with Dexron III's viscosity being clearly of a too high viscosity for 6 speed auto transmissions. Dexron II is more for 5 gear Auto Transmissions. Some parts in the 6 speed transmission are turning faster than in a5 speed transmission, and require therefore an ATF with lower viscosity.

This Fluidmatic is more of a Dexron VI, i.e. better for the 6hp26, but I would still not use it in MY ZF 6hp26 transmission. My choice.
Fluidmatic has a KV100 of 6.225, hence clearly better than the (for 6hp26) unsuitable Dexron III (KV100=7.5), but still a far cry from the KV100=5.6 of Lifeguard 6.
https://aftermarket.zf.com/remotemed...s-20190219.pdf

Also, Total is not very open regarding which kind of approximate chemical composition (CAS number) of the biggest base oil component, thus, this is already not good.
Further: There is a very long list of very different cars, this Fluidmatic is (according to Total) "suitable for". This is already very suspicious to me for starters, see:
https://totalenergies.com.au/system/..._202111_en.pdf

But there is no way that one and the same ATF is suitable for "• ZF 6 Speed AT (6HP) / 8 Speed AT (8HP) / 9 Speed AT (9HP)". This is exactly WHY there are 3 different ATFs: "Lifeguard 6, 8 and 9" (totally different animals!).
This is where Total's credibility has died, as far as I am concerned..
Lifeguard 6 is made to suit Shell spec m1375.4. This spec defines EXACTLY KV100=5.6. Thus, Total claiming that their KV100=6.225 is in line with that Shell spec and equivalent to Lifeguard 6 is incorrect.

So, make an educated choice, that is all I can say...

 

Yes I have the same problem I'm curious now after reading some other posts if changing the transmission control module would help because I heard that I can buy them used for about $80 however repair shops are going to want $1,000 to fix that part. I'm also curious about whether or not I can figure out how to change out the fluid in the gearbox myself and if it is damaged or faulty how much of a repair that's going to cost?

 

Yes fingers crossed that it is not the transmission or the torque converter clutch or that I need a new gearbox. I imagine that I probably need to change some fluids as well. Also I've noticed that the things seems to be getting low on coolant about once a week. But that's a whole nother topic I guess.
So I guess the fluid in the gearbox needs to be changed out for fresh fluid seeing as how I have 150,000 miles and I'm sure that it's never been done this car.
DI you know how much a repair or swap for a new or new used gearbox would be? I'm still confused as to whether the gearbox entirely separate from the transmission and I could change that out independently from the trans. Also curious if it's something that I could do by myself with good tools. Also I still haven't seen if the battery is too low although I have a feeling that that is not what this is stimming from.

 

@ BennyJag 512: Ups, I learned something triggered by your question, coz I thought gearbox and transmission is the same, but no:

"You’re probably aware that the gearbox is placed at the back of the transmission, which is a series of gears that sends engine power to the wheels and allows a car to move. The gearbox is the transmission’s sidekick, while the transmission is the intermediary."

So you are kind of asking, who deep you have to dig in the transmission to find all the nice parts, which are part of the actual gearbox... - well, have a look in those video clips of Michael in Vienna, whom I got to know because of his clips:

You Tube

You Tube

You Tube

You Tube

He has got heaps more videos about that 6hp26 transmission. You will find them. That is enough to teach me NOT to mess with the transmission and not to play the transmission puzzle.

You may want to heed my advise reg. ATF above.

Obviously, which have a leakage problem with ATF. Can you describe, where the leak is?

And what is your problem, which you call "the same problem"?

 

Peter, come back! Don't go down that rabbit trail!

You've got to consider the context here. Even if gearbox and transmission are separate sections within that expensive cone-shaped thingie behind the engine, it's not especially relevant. The all-important context? It all goes back to a "Gearbox Fault" message. Best I understand it, "Gearbox" is a British term for the that entire expensive cone-shaped thingie behind the engine. Here in the Colonies (can I even use that word these days?) we call that entire thingie a transmission, but who am I to criticize the British for messing up their own language?

It's kinda like when I leave some heavy footwear in the trunk of my car, and forget to lace them closed. Don't know why I need to do that, but occasionally I get a warning message for Boot Open. I have to stop, open the trunk, lace up my boots, and then close the trunk. If the sensor is working properly, the message usually goes away.

 

Benny we are getting WAY off in the weeds here!!
Let's come back to reality a bit?

First we need to get your car hooked up to an SDD system. You still have not posted what codes your car is producing?
This is the beginning of any repair. Now changing and checking fluid level is fine too and most likely you do need a fluid change.

We are all in the dark until you can get the car scanned.
Before changing fluid I would at least check the fluid level because that will certainly cause problems.

Post back with more info if you can too.
.
.
.

 

Karl, love the story about the Boot Open. My problem is how to change the dash message, Door is a Jar.

 

Yeah, what a useless message. A door is a door. Everybody knows that, sheesh...

Had a different car with big letters on the driver's sunvisor: ATTENTION AIRBAG followed by some important warnings about the supplemental restraint system. Sure, I might be a bit long-winded, verbose, and prone to using more words than necessary when expressing myself, but I found that salutation to be rather insulting.

 

🤣🤣 As an English guy it took me a while to understand this 🤦‍♂️. Very nicely put!👍

 

🤣🤣 ROFL.
In the UK, they warn you about what type of school you are approaching. In big letters on the road is written ‘SLOW SCHOOL’. Presumably, this is to warn you that nearby students may not be as smart as your average kid and therefore will not understand proper road crossing etiquette.

 

So, Benny, skip back about a dozen messages: Where is your ATF leak? What are the symptoms? Are you aware that filling the ATF to the proper level means jacking up the car level, loosening in filler plug, starting engine, remove the loose filler plug (but don't loose it... - ...just to pay homage to all the word games above...) and pump in ATF by the filler plug, until ATF comes running out? Well, I would never refill a transmission with old ATF, but let's just assume your ATF is fairly new and the correct one.

 

He said he had a coolant leak, not gearbox oil. It’s a separate issue I think.

 

Oh, yes, Sportston. That sudden topic change from ATF too coolant leak above had indeed escaped me.
So, I still have a coolant leak S-Type myself, after all I did. I also have to investigate mine further.
And the question to Benny then is: ¿What exactly if your transmission problem?

 

To gain a bit of focus here, re BennyJag:

1. He has an X202, with the 3.0 engine and automatic transmission.
2. The car has done 150K miles without a transmission service.
3. He is having issues with said transmission.
4. No basic diagnostics have been done.
5. He should have started a new thread as this one is now something of a confusing mess.
6. He has contacted a member by PM seeking advice and was referred back to the open forum.
7. We have no idea as to his mechanical skill set.

So, to recap some of the recommendations to BennyJag:
1. Start a fresh thread clearly stating the issues and history of the S-type
2. Check the battery for pre-start voltage (the proper starting point on pretty much any diagnosis).
3. Via SDD, or a Jaguar capable code reader (e.g. an iCarsoft unit) pull, but don't erase any codes encountered and report same in the new thread.
4. Don't attempt a transmission service until you are really sure that you know what you are doing.
5. Bring any diagnostic results, DTCs for example, back in here in their original form so we can help.
6. Listen to and be sure you understand any advice given here; don't jump the gun.

We would love to help, but proper information is needed in order to give proper advice...

 

Yeah, good on you. Some unnamed chuckleheads were cracking cheap jokes. They should be ashamed of themselves!

Merry Christmas!

 

Yes, I was already trying to get back to the topic. I do have an idea what the issue may be, but really, I need to know first, what the issue is.
Benny has a 3L S-Type 2006, i.e. it is either a X204 or a X206. (My twin-sisters are both X204).