S-Type Owner Thank you!

Benny - The ball is in your court!
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Sorry gentleman I have not been paying attention to this thread for a couple of weeks because it's been very busy during the holidays. This has been both insightful and hilarious.
I will make sure and get it looked at soon and report back as to what specific codes are being thrown out by the computer and hopefully when we get it lifted up I can see if there's anything obvious like a crack in the block or something horrible like that.

 

Thanks for the update and very much hope you DON'T have anything horrible like a cracked block!!
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Were they? That’s outrageous! Who would do such a thing?😮😇

 

Hi all, well I FINALLY got to the bottom (literally) of my transmission jolt problem. Not only that, I have found a reliable and knowledgeable auto transmission specialist in my area

My new best-friend Troy has extensive experience with these transmissions and those similarly fitted to BMWs and Fords. It turns out that the problem has little to nothing to do with changing the fluid or the filter or solenoids or anything else like that. It has to do with eight small pieces of rubber.
Allow me to explain for those who might have this jolting issue and may be interested.

Between the valve body, the first thing you see when you remove the transmission pan, and the main transmission body, are sets of rubber seals. There are six small tubular ones and two larger square ones at each end of the valve body. The small tubular seals fit into recesses in the valve body and mate with the transmission body. They seal the joint between the passages that feed fluid to each of the six clutch cartridges, one for each gear. The fluid is passed under pressure through these passages to pistons which then apply that pressure to the clutch plates in the cartridge which then bind up and transfer the drive to the selected gear.

So, if these seals are worn, fluid can leak past them and pressure is lost. Eventually sufficient fluid pressure will enter the passages and suddenly force the piston forward in the cartridge. It is this action that causes the jolt in the gear change.

The seals in my box were short (in some cases 2mm short) and were not sealing against the transmission body. In fact they were not remotely close to sealing anything. The larger end seals were also breaking down resulting in an overall loss of pressure.

The job took the guys 2 hours and they were able to re-use my existing new fluid and filter. $400 (Oz) including new seals and she now drives like a new car. I can't even tell when the changes happen. They also ran a diagnostic and zeroed my computer.

According to Troy, this is a common problem with Jags, Fords and BMWs that run these boxes.

I am now a very happy camper.

 

Yes this is a common and recommended part to change. I did NOT see where you changed the sealing sleeve? Did your guy check for leaks at the electrical connection at the back and top of the transmission? It's hard to see and most people think it's the pan leaking but usually it's not.? They are almost 100% guaranteed to leak. Don't let this go either! The reason is the fluid will travel back from that plug up and into the wire harness itself and can cause many problems. But if you catch it soon enough the damage from the fluid won't have time to get far.

You can get the sealing kit from "The CTSC" who I have recommended for over 10 years now. It's about $60. Many non-ZF kits on EBay too if you want to go that way.
Sealing Sleeve and Adapter Kit

Here is what those seals and the dreaded sealing sleeve look like.



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Yes he did the whole thing. The Jag seals differ slightly from others in that they have small 'v' -sheped lugs on one end and corresponding shaped recesses in the body. The squre shaped seals break down inside.

 

Good that you solved the issue finally.
In my reply to you above (22 Dec. 2022) I gave you the link to my DIY guide.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...s-type-264102/
In that you find all about the sleeve and it's seals and about the 4 tubes and the bridge-seal (valve body adapter).
My initial DIY guide contains the info reg. the sleeve, and under the picture of the valve body is a remark to check at the bottom of the thread for the 27. Jan. 2023 entry, which deals with the 4 tubes and the bridge seal.

I did swap my 4 tubes and bridge seal, even though they were not yet damaged - just in case...

 

Hello Peter, thankyou, I was aware of your excellent guides but for me, messing around with these transmissions is a bridge too far. Time,mostly, is the problem. To have a really reliable source of knowledge who can also do the work and is physically at hand is a major relief especially where I live! The Jag is a very nice car but it is our daily driver (or more correctly, my wife's) and has to perform that role without problems. For relaxation I drive an MGB. I can work on that in my sleep :> When I was 19, my daily driver was a 1931 MG F type Magna. Now THAT was a car. It's still running strong in England somewhere I believe.

 

Hi Bazzarius,
The 1931 MG F type Magna looks a tiny bit like Brutus... :
My former neighbour has a MGB in his Garage since many years, working on it from time to time - not sure, if he has finally completed that project, between building his house, working, and restoring his old bike...

If you want to add beauty to your "S" and money does not matter too much, check out ebay item no.: 284437481851
Those are the headlight and taillight chrome bezels for the "S". This is the complete kit with the correct rear bezels - there are differences between the old and new S-Type taillights. Or just for the headlights for half the price.

 

Not quite as brutal as that beast! The Magna was a great car. I remember charging up the M1 in a snowstorm, no windscreen, just Brooklands Aero screens. So I was wearing welding goggles and a dear-stalker with the flaps tied down. We got 70 mph. I called in at a service station to replace a mudguard bolt and drew up alongside a Mini-Cooper. He was having a problem starting. I bolted the guard back on and leaping over the side and into the seat, I hit the foot starter and she fired right up. The guy in the Mini shouted "don't want to swap do you?" "Not for anything" I shouted back as we tore off, fish-tailing away back onto the motorway. Grand days.

I considered the headlamp trims but my wife prefers the clean factory look.

BTW you'll probably know about a fabulous replica Bentley with a RR Merlin engine. It is now in the Jay Leno collection I think. I'd kill for that one....

 

Yes, that Bentley looks alright...
Once I saw a study, of how German Sportscars would have looked like, if WW2 would not have interrupted the flow of things... - like this one and way more drastic (even longer bonnets):
https://www.supercars.net/blog/1939-...mlinien-coupe/
That's a picture of a Horch - "Horch" is the German translation of the Latin word "Audi", and it is the same brand (Horch was renamed into Audi)...

OK, if you do not want to change anything on the "S", here is another idea for money well invested: I assume you have 2 keys... - get yourself another 2. I have all my Tibbe Keys cut in Melbourne - via mail - fair prices... And then find an able locksmith in your area for the remote-programming. I think I remember that I can do the transponder programming myself, but not the remote.

 

Do you think these seals had been installed in the wrong positions? Any idea who had been in there last?

Looking at the previous picture of the seal kit,, it’s odd the different seal lengths were so close to each other. Seems like a mistake waiting to happen. Not even remotely Murphy-proof.

 

I really have no idea but judging by the condition of the seals which were shown to me, I don't think the box had been cracked since new. I'm not sure what I am looking at in the pic of the kit there. The box is six speed and I only count four seals in the shot. Also they appear to be different lengths and do not have the v-shaped location lugs on them either. They don't resemble the new seals which were shown to me before being fitted.

Apparently these seal failures are common in these boxes and afflict all makes besides Jaguar which use this transmission.

 

🤣I assume this was said with tongue firmly lodged in cheek.

 

Hi Sportston,
I am not sure, what exercises you do with your tongue, but the bezels certainly improve the optics of my S's.
It is possible that it is of relevance, what the colour of the Jag is - green and chrome certainly work: