I forgot to mention that. I have a valve saver system that will mount quite easily next to the ABS pump. Everything looks like it should mount neatly under the bonnet, apart from the birds nest of pipework and wiring required. I think it will be difficult not to make it look like a plate of spaghetti.

 

I have trial fitted the injectors to the manifold. Not much room to put the nozzles! Please note that short nozzles of the type that screw in using an allen key are necessary. But managed to do it in what I hope is an acceptable fashion. As soon as the fuel pressure emulator arrives I will install it and refit the manifold.


You may wonder why I haven't put the nozzles more uniformly. Compromises had to be made to avoid petrol fuel rail brackets and injectors, and to allow access for the drill. I don't like having such long hoses to the nozzles on the right bank, but can't see any other choice. Once I have fitted the manifold I will be able to shorten them a little. I deliberately left them longer than necessary to help me thread them through the fuel rail upon refitting.

Large four-hole fuel tank is now securely mounted in the boot. It required some modification to make the spare wheel well large enough (thank goodness for hydraulic jacks!). The tank is slightly too tall, but I don't mind the boot floor being raised buy 4cm.

The reducer is plumbed into the coolant system and mounted on the left inner turret. I teed into the heater pipes just above the back of the engine. A bit fiddly to do in such limited space but looks good once completed.

The valve saver bottle is mounted by the right turret and the nozzle fitted to the manifold very close to the throttle.

The high pressure solenoid is mounted behind the left headlamp beside the radiator, and is connected to the reducer by proper copper pipe.

Still plenty left to do, but I temporarily ran out of money and time. All the remaining parts are now on their way.

Will post more pics when I have taken them.

One other thing I noticed; it is not advisable to install the filler in the side of the rear bumper on this car. Why? Because the pipework world be dangerously close to the exhaust (all lpg pipes must be at least 12" away from the exhaust). I have noticed another S-type had it mounted there but I will not be following that example. I have decided to mount it above the rear bumper on the right side of the trunk. It will mean drilling through metal, but it is the safest place I can see to mount it.

 

interesting. why dont you install the lpg filler socket near the gasoline one, behing the designated door?
do you need a fuel pressure emulator if you haver a return?
i sold my spare wheel and i have runflat tires, compressor and tire sealant.
and i thing one of my rails ios bad haha good luck!

 

Yes I am mounting it on the same rear quarter as the petrol flap. I don't have a fuel return. I thought it did, but it turns out it doesn't.
What do you mean "one of my rails is bad" ? Lpg injectors? It would be weird to have an entire rail of faulty injectors. Or has it been mounted upside down? That can cause problems I've heard.

 

i've got my lpg socket rioght next to my petrol filler spot, both behind the flap.
i thought the non facelift ones have returns.

so, i've got the P0171 Bank 1 lean mixture CEL code, again yesterday, on lpg. on petrol the car works perfect.
So, i connect the OBD scanner, and i see the Short Trim Fuel Correction Bank 1 at over +25% on LPG (my elm327 scanner wont show over 25%). STFC on Bank 2 was looking ok.
-- I said this is it! i'm swapping the rails in between them, to see if the error or the STFC high values move too: After rails swap, STFC Bank 1 is below -25%; STFC Bank 2 is still ok.
im trying now to switch those 3 injectors to petrol and leave one side on lpg and see how to fuel trims react.
any ideas? thank you

 

Ah I see. I can't hide mine behind the petrol flap. I am in the UK. We use a bayonet filler point. There is not enough room for a bayonet point.

About your problem; it sounds like you reversed the problem by swapping the rails. From +25 to - 25. I know I should be able to work this out but my brain is functioning at 50% of its usual capacity. I think this would indicate that you don't have a faulty injector as bank 2 showed no discernable difference when you swapped rails.

However, is it possible you have an inlet leak, an exhaust leak (before the lambda sensor), a faulty lambda sensor or your injectors plugged into the wrong wires? Your car would still run passably well but it would notice something isn't quite within normal tolerances.

 

Fitted the filler point today. Couldn't put it exactly where I wanted to because there is an ECU in the way. I had to put it further forward than I would have liked. Drilled the hole, fitted the filler, then realised I couldn't get a 22mm spanner into the tight space to tighten the hose to the fitting. Probably should have drilled it about an inch further back. I have a possible workaround (mounting it 90 degrees further round) which I will try tomorrow. Failing that, I will get out my welder and make a unique tool.

 

Oh im sorry its such a trouble with the sockets over there hope you can have it custom made to fit the already drilled hole.
can't you install a threaded little valve by the gasoline filler cap? And screw in the socket every time?

and thanks for the replies! Sounds interesting but i forgot to add:
one cat was poisoned with coolant, i have to use a extender for the o2 sensor to have an almost identical graph as the other bank on the after cat sensors.

no air leaks, everything has been cleaned and renewed after i fixed the leaking gasket by swapping in a new engine haha.
(I had the same lpg issue with the previous engine too!)

and i just swapped the rails, not the hoses or calbles.
So, shouldnt have the error moved to the other bank if the injectors were broken?
Why did it invert the value of the fuel correction by me swapping the rails in between them?

btw my kit is not linked to my o2 sensors.
and i had bigger nozzles with a lower multiplier so the ecu would have made corrections and cut the fuel trims.
but now that i have the correct sized nozzels, one bank is ok, the other does that crazy stuff.

many many many thanks!

 

Yes if you had faulty injectors the fault should have moved to the other bank, as I said previously. But to swap the rails you had to unplug the injectors. Are you sure they were plugged in correctly ordered? However, I think perhaps you are going to struggle to fix the problem if you have a faulty cat.
Your engine management system will be unable to correctly adjust things as its frame for measurement is being fooled.

First replace the cat, then delete the fault codes and see if the problem returns. If it does, recalibrate your lpg map.

 

thanks for the quick reply!
i fooled the after-convertor sensor (bank 2 sensor 2) with an extension, graphs for all sensors look good now.
the only drawback is that the car might have worse emissions, but i tested them too and they are within standards.

btw, my precat sensors arent conected to my lpg ecu. my installer said in my case its the same thing. what are the advanteges/ disadvantages?
many thanks

 

I can't think why he didn't bother connecting the precat sensors. Do you mean to say he connected the aftercat sensors to the lpg ecu instead?
That would be crazy.

I'm no LPG expert, just an ex-diagnostic technician who has fitted LPG a few times to my own vehicles. You might find lpgforum.co.uk a useful site. I have used it myself and found the guys on there very helpful.

 

no, he hasnt connected the sensor at all. i might connect it myself.
yes simon from LPGC has helped me a lot.

i thought i had my kit figuer out but it seems like it needs a bit of work done

 

I'd say that is a good idea. You can then see what each bank is doing while the engine is running. I take it you have an LPG interface for your system?

 

yup i do, a 20gbp clone cable, but works very d@mn well haha.
i will connect them then. i will email stag and tell them too, see what they say.
i mean i can see thru' the obd II scanner, but the stag ecu is the one that should see them right?
Thanks a lot sportson!

 

You are welcome. Yes, you want both ECUs to see them. The Stag software allows you to superimpose the lambda sensor signal over the other signals too. So you can see what difference there is when you change from petrol to LPG. You can also test each individual injector through their software, by switching them on one at a time and monitoring the lambda sensor response. The response should be about the same for each injector. If it isn't, then you have a problem with that particular cylinder which needs investigating (for example, it could be an LPG injector fault, inlet leak, ignition problem, mechanical problem, or even petrol injector fault). This is a very useful test because it allows you to see which pot is faulty instead of only which bank.

 

hi how's it going?
any news with your kit?
i saw again the above picture, with the injection ramp and manifold connections... my hoses look simmilar, and i wanted to ask if shouldnt they have to be the same lenghts?
btw, we have different cylinder numberings, and my installed had my lpg injectors connected after the numbering that you have, do you think i should redo the connections after the cylinder numberings? or will the emulation work regardless of numberings? (engine sounds right)
thanks!

 

I've been busy with a other project so the Jag has sat waiting for me to get around to finishing the job. The cylinder numbering does not matter so long as they are connected to the same cylinder as the corresponding petrol injector. The gas ecu will mirror correctly then. The pipes cannot be the same length. In an ideal world they should be, but compromises have to be made due to space constraints. It looks ugly, I know, but so long as she runs ok, I will be happy.

​​​​​ If yours falters for a moment when it switches over, it most likely has them incorrectly mirrored. If it switches smoothly then leave them alone, there is no point fiddling unnecessarily. Mine are ordered oddly to make the pipes as short as possible but I will correctly wire them to the corresponding petrol injector, so it won't matter.

Another thing I did while I had the manifold off was to replace the seals on the tuning valves. They weren't leaking, but I thought it made sense to do them as a precaution.

 

thanks for the reply
it runs ok, tho i have issues when selective switching injectors to petrol so think i will do the correct numbering connections.
let me post some pics below with my feeding hoses to check your opinion on them.
yeah, i found out that the gaskets between the plastic and aluminiun manifolds were ok. were the gaskets below the black plastic manifold what were flattened out.

 

Ah! So your fitter made two elemental errors. He didn't mirror the injectors properly and he fitted them upside down. Mirroring them properly is easy to fix, it's just a case of swapping the wiring plugs to the correct injectors. Fixing the injectors the right way up is a bit more difficult.

LPG injectors should always have the exit at the bottom to avoid any "heavy ends" gumming up the works. Heavy ends are the greasy gummy deposits from the pump lubricants. If your injectors are the right way up they will be sucked into the engine and burnt along with the other oily fumes and fuel, causing no problem at all. Left upside down, eventually you will need to remove and overhaul or replace them.

 

yeah! how did you know? thats what im saying, ima have to relink everything... oh god, apparently paying money for a service aint enough these days, you have to bring in offerings and visit them when the stars allign.

how about the length of the hoses? whats you opinion on that? i marked the shortest one (red) half the length of the longest one (blue)

Thank you so much for the info. happy days