How much torque?
In a recent discussion about tires and lugnuts and such, someone mentioned that they insist that an impact wrench not be used when replacing tires. I've had an unfortunate experience with this before on my truck.
So I ask....just how much torque is to be used on the wheels of an S-Type 3?
So I ask....just how much torque is to be used on the wheels of an S-Type 3?
most all vehicles run 65-85 foot pounds as a general rule. The bigger issue is even torquing in the correct pattern on clean but not oiled threads. Oil on the threads gives an incorrect(much higher than actual) reading. I spray a light dry silicone if I have rusting issues. I also use a torque stick on the impact gun.
Quoting this bulletin, "When checking the torque of road wheels
on ALL S-Type vehicles, ensure that the nuts are tightened to
128+-10Nm or 94+-7.5ft/lb." Jag further recommends that you
follow the detail in TSB S204-01, "Greasing of road wheel inner
contact face" prior to refitting". There is also a diagram of the
correct nut tightening sequence which is tighten one, skip one,
tighten one, etc, and, that the stud threads be clean, dry,
and ungreased.
on ALL S-Type vehicles, ensure that the nuts are tightened to
128+-10Nm or 94+-7.5ft/lb." Jag further recommends that you
follow the detail in TSB S204-01, "Greasing of road wheel inner
contact face" prior to refitting". There is also a diagram of the
correct nut tightening sequence which is tighten one, skip one,
tighten one, etc, and, that the stud threads be clean, dry,
and ungreased.
Car wheel nuts: I use an extending wheelbrace with a proper double-ended socket of 17 and 19mmm. which comes with the item. Extended it's about a foot and half long. I use my feet to tighten, until I hear one "crack" due to stiction. I don't mean the nut is cracked! After 45 years doing it that way I've never had any problem whatsoever. With this tool and using my feet plus body weight, I can undo nuts that have been run on by an air-hammer chuck at tyre depots. I don't put anything on the threads since being so advised by an experienced mechanic when I was an apprentice. I've taught my daughter how to do the job properly, and she can do it no prob.
With waggons, it's a bit different. In UK the nearside nuts are anticlock or left hand thread. To get waggon nuts off you have to use a 6foot piece of scaffolding on the tool to get enough leverage, standing and jumping on the bar when tightening, again until you hear the stiction "crack". Sorry I can't give U any torque figures, but I would imagine it's high.
Leedsman.
With waggons, it's a bit different. In UK the nearside nuts are anticlock or left hand thread. To get waggon nuts off you have to use a 6foot piece of scaffolding on the tool to get enough leverage, standing and jumping on the bar when tightening, again until you hear the stiction "crack". Sorry I can't give U any torque figures, but I would imagine it's high.
Leedsman.
Last edited by Leedsman; Sep 24, 2010 at 10:25 AM. Reason: Bad spelling.
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