Well, Blaq Cat, that is one of the benefits of using a forum such as this. You have opinions and recommendations from members with varying levels of expertise and experience, but at the end of the day, it's your car and you will need to decide what is the best course of action for you to take.

NBCat

 

Interesting... Does this work on your XJ? I've looked through the owners manual and it doesn't mention any thing about it, unless I missed it...

 

If I could get a longer hose for the oil squirter It would be alot easier. I really wanted to go with your idea on priming the cylinder as that is my main concern, well that and the cams. Just don't know where i'm gonna get a longer hose so I can actually stick it insid the cylinder.

 

You can certainly use a length of small diameter rubber hose or even a flexible drinking straw attached to the end of the oilcan you're using.

NBCat

 

You could always "borrow" the hose from the windshield washer. Or go find a soda straw. Preferably one with a bendable end.

One person here used a length of small diameter hose with the end plugged and holes in the side at the end so that it squirts sideways. Then he rotated the hose as he pumped oil in.

If you decide to do this, make sure you don't drop whatever you use for plugging the end of the hose into the cylinder bore. That would be zehr nicht gut.

 

Typically you would store a vehicle with a full tank if you were storing for a period of less than a year, adding some Sta-bil to the tank to fight off condensation. I would suggest you'd still add some Sta-bil to the gas in your tank as it is when filling.

As for the cylinder lube, if you have the time and are concerned, as it seems you are, regular synthetic oil squirted into the plug hole would be sufficient IMHO, although a touch of MMO wouldn't hurt, and it is available at auto parts stores and big box retailers, at least around here. Just be extremely careful not to get any dirt or debris into the cylinder as mentioned above, I would probably not even bother with this process for that reason. If the car was inactive for a longer period then that's a different story.

Lots of good advice in this thread, I don't see any of it that would be harmful to follow. I tend to agree with Mikey, just fire it up. That's strictly my opinion.

Overall though, kudos for taking such a concern for your Jag, glad to have members on the board who obviously care for their cars as best they can. Let us know how it all works out.

 

One thing that has not been mentioned is to rest the starter I think Jag recommend not to crank for more than 15 seconds otherwise you may over heat the motor and damage it

 

Yup. It works with my XJ and every other cars I have. Go tried it with all your other cars or friend's car or family's car and see the magic.

 

If it is of any benefit to the OP and helps him sleep better- engines frequently sit for extended periods of time between uses. Even brand new engines at an OEM might sit for weeks, months or years before being pressed into service at the factory or as service spares in the field. There is no known failure history associated with engines put into service after prolonged storage, other than ones that were subjected to extreme conditions such as moisture or other contamination. My other car hobby is with older Corvettes where it is not rare to see engines that were assembled up to a year prior to the car they ended up in. Most certainly GM had no procedure to pre-oil them prior to start. These engines proved to be as durable and reliable as any others.

My professional involvement in this matter was during my tenure in engineering and customer support with my former employer, world's largest manufacturer of small and medium size gas turbines. A rather prominent airframe manufacturer, through an inventory control error, had left a series of engines sitting unwanted and unloved at the back of a warehouse for a period of three years. The prevailing documentation at the time (approved by TC, FAA, CAA and JAR amongst others) dictated a complete disassembly for overhaul for instances of storage of one year or longer, as it was thought that the opportunity for damage after this period was of too high a level of probability.

The OEM requested that we initially disassemble just one engine and document the findings, one way or the other. Long story short there was no damage, and of great relevance to the subject at hand, the amount of residual oil found on the oil wetted surfaces and inside passages was indistinguishable from any engine that had sat only for a day or two.

This revelation prompted further investigation on other engines, some sitting ten years or longer. If anyone remembers the CN Turbo Train of the 1960s or 70s, two or three engines from that project that had been 'ridden hard and put away wet' were made part of the study and similar observations about the amount of residual oil ware made.

As such, sufficient data was accumulated to substantiate a change to the published manuals removing a fixed length of time in storage as criteria. Instead, records must be kept regarding relative humidity levels and pH level of residual oil left in the tank.

The OP is doing no harm by squirting oil inside the cylinders, but I find it difficult to understand what it will achieve as the cylinders walls above the piston have no oil on them at all when the engine is operating. If the goal is to allow it to seep past the rings to lubricate the walls below, my experience leads me to believe there is still plenty of residual oil to accomplish that task.

 

Sounds like a good point mikey. Anyhow I just got done oiling 6 of the 8 cylinders using the straw trick which was very clever I sealed the open end shut and made one tiny hole with a needle which pressurized the fluid coming out. how ever I couldnt remove the very rear coil plugs they just wouldn't fully come out, seems like the valve cover wasn't perfeclty flush with the spark plug wells restricting me from completlely removing them. but I'm sure mikey is right. What good is a car If you have to worry about it not being driven in weeks or months?

 

There cant be much wear going on in the cylinders when using the starter to prime the engine as the pistion is simply gliding up and down with no combustion hamering it down. After building up oil pressur, oil should imediatly start flinging of the crank or squrting from the oil jets when you go for the actual engine start.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Blaq Cat
Lol I'm releived to hear this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by clubairth1
on the STR the bottom of the pistons and the cylinder walls are lubricated by piston squirters

Blaq Cat; I was wrong about the STR and the oil squirters. The 2.7D Turbo has them not the STR at least what I could find. Sorry for the screw up!

Here is the Jaguar piston squirter. It's a dual setup.


Here is a Corvette version. This kind can be added to most engines.



A different style is the Rod style. Keeps the distance from the oil jet to the underside of the piston the same so more consistent oiling. Don't know which is better?





The use of these requires more oil flow so usually a bigger oil pump and maybe some additional internal oil control measures like windage tray modifications and oil drain back stuff.
.
.

 

Don't forget that the piston oilers are for cooling purposes, not lubrication.

 

So the 4.2 only uses oil fling to lubracate the cylinders?

 

JTIS doesnt have the specifications for gapping the spark plugs on the 4.2. I figuered I check them while I have them out to make sure they are all within specification to make sure I havent accidentally altered them before putting them back in.

 

This should help http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa..._2007_2004.pdf page 23

 

I was going to quote some of the posts on here, but it will just make a long post longer...

I want to just point out that I agree with Mikey. You can certainly go through all this, but why? It in fact may make the car harder to start with oil in the cylinders. Cranking produces some oil pressure, but not the same as running. Running is better than cranking.

I've stored a car for over ten years (I think closer to 15 now..wow). And this isn't some super well built V8 but a lowly K car.. Yea, a Dodge 600 with a 2.2 Turbo known to eat head gaskets.

What I've learned about storing is to simply not mess with it. Don't randomly start it. Don't obsess over stuff. Just leave it be. The more you mess with it the greater the risk of breaking stuff.

Here are my storage criteria. Some may not agree with all of them, but again, my car speaks to my methods. It is fine. The only thing that needs attention after all these years is I will need to do a oil pan gasket this year. I get a little dime size drip from time to time. That's it.

1) Make sure the garage is fairly dry. That is more important than temperature. My car shares the garage with my daily driver. So, it sits in there with a car that comes home at times covered in salt and snow. Yet the rotors and everything else on Dodge is rust free. This is why I won't seal my garage floor. It seems to breathe well and stays dry.

2) Get a battery tender. I bought a cheap one at Sears for around $30.00. It automatically detects a voltage drop in the battery and will cycle to recharge it. I used to constantly have to replace batteries. Not any more. In fact, the old battery in the Dodge was put into service in the van this winter when the van's battery died while I was away in Phoenix on business. Still works just fine.

3) Always park it with a full tank of gas. Stops condensation from forming in the tank itself from the ambient air. I used to be a Stabil user but found if I just topped it up I never have any issues with starting or running.

4) This is a new one that I learned here from a user BRUTAL. He said it is a dealer trick that he uses. Air up the tires to 50 to 60 lbs of air. That is enough to stop flat spots from appearing. Obviously it is easy to do if you have a compressor. Most important thing is to remember to not drive it like that. It could be dangerous. Since I started doing it, no more flat spots. It's great.

5) Lastly, keep the car detailed. If you keep it clean and waxed, it will stay nice. Dust and stuff from the garage just hoses off. Also, be sure to use rubber preservatives that do not contain silicone. I use 303 protectant. I even wipe down the inside and outside of the tires with it. The tires on the Dodge are very old without any dry rot cracks. Pay attention to all the hoses under the hood as well as the normal weather strip. Again, even if it isn't a show car, detail it like it is. Pay attention to all the little stuff.

I just do these things and my Dodge is perfectly fine. Again, the more you mess with it the greater the odds that something is going to break.

 

I recently helped a buddy of mine prep start up his str after almost 8 months of storage. Although he didn't store it with a full tank, some where close to empty. When we cranked it up white smoke just shot out of the tail pipe, after about 5 min of letting it idle it still is smoking out of the tail pipe could this be from condensation in the fuel? The idle wasn't stable for the first five min either. He's worried at the moment but hopfully it's not serious. Any help will be much apreciated guys thanks

 

have you considered marine engine fogging oil? i recently used this on a bike that had been sitting for 20 years and it was fine. it fills the entire cylinder with a foam like lubricant , let it sit for half a day , then crank her up. i didnt read the whole thread so excuse me if this has been said already.

 

David, You should have mentioned in your post that you put Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders before starting. As I said in my reply to your PM, adding anything into the combustion chamber like that is going to produce smoke. The car needs to be driven for a bit and then checked. Be sure to change the oil first. Like I have said in my previous post, don't go crazy with additives and such. If a car is going to sit for the winter, just let it be. In the spring, change the oil and fire it up. That's it.