After battling with the lock nuts, I have landed ontoanother problem. Today I took the Jag for MOT test; unfortunately it has failedthe test. The nearside rear brake is binding, thus the only reason for thefailure.
I tried to check the two pins but they are fine (both are moving freely). Despitethat I cleaned then apply some grease and took the car for road test but it’sstill binding.
Please hon members help, Thanks

 

Just curious, but how do you tell if it's binding?

 

It gets hot

 

I see. I didn't know if there was a noise, odd handling of the car or such. I guess it gets really noticeably hotter than the other side?

 

Yes it’s hot, also when you jack it up, release the parking brake then putthe gear in neutral, try to turn the wheel, and then you will see what bindingis, thanks.

 

You need a new caliper, try eurojag Contact Us | Jaguar parts and spares from Eurojag for a used one, about £30 you'll also need a set of rear pads, about £20

I noticed I had a sticking rear caliper cos of the extra brake dust on the wheel compared to the others, i then noticed the heat when driven for a while.

 

Have you checked that the parking brake is releasing properly?

 

I haven't done much on it because of time. It will be the first thing tomorrow and I'm contemplatingto do the re-calibration as well.

 

Not if it's the EPB mechanism that's faulty.

 

Isn't the epb on separate caliper and disc, or is that just str

 

Same caliper, but a stuck cable or actuator can keep the pads applied even if the caliper is in perfect shape.

 

I know there many things that can cause brake binding, so I'll not just jump into buying parts. I need to establish the source of the problem first then I'll go that route. Thanks

 

You're very right, that is one of the things that I'll try to look into, thanks very for that.

 

Yes just STR the grannymobiles only get the one caliper.

 

Ok, thanks, that's where I'm getting mixed up

 

Just a quick feedback, today Itried to recalibrate but still binding, cleaned and lubricated the EPBmechanism but still binding.
Then I removed the calliper andtook out the piston, there were some yellow stuff and the seal appeared partlytwisted. I tried to clean inside the calliper and piston with 1200mm sandpaperand brake cleaner, reassemble it, then road test, it became worse.
Please advise, should I buy thecalliper kit or the whole calliper? Thanks

 

I guess you're saying that it's not the EPB mechanism.

Next step is to crack open a bleeder on the caliper to see if that releases pad pressure and allows the wheel to turn freely.

No need to do road test BTW, up on jack stands rotating by hand is far more telling.

 

see post number 6

 

I did open at one point but it didn't. One thing I also noted is that the piston goes freely when its almost inside harder when its half way out of the cylinder, I think thus where it sticks
Thanks very much sir.

 

I think you've exhausted all other reasonable possibilities and should take police's advice to replace the caliper.