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New Battery
My 06 S type just went nuts at starting with dash lights and beeping.. I let it run for a minute then shut down and hooked up my iCarsoft and brought up batt volts that were 12.1v engine off and dropped to 10.?v during cranking.. I knew I needed a new battery at the standing 12.1v but it started the second time even with that volt drop and ran with no lights and beeping.. I've changed many batteries in my life but am a little worried about this car because of what I read about possible complications.. I did a general google search for "jaguar s type trouble changing battery" and this other forum was right there with this amazing explanation.. I think I might take this simple battery change to a dealer..
__________________________________________________ __________ Resets Required after Flat Battery or Changing Battery in a Jaguar After battery reconnection After reconnecting the battery: • Reset the electric parkbrake; • Reset the electrically operated windows anti-trap function • The trip computer will lose all recorded trip data and all trip functions will be reset to zero. The vehicle total odometer reading is retained. • The radio will not operate until the correct security code has been re-entered. Refer to the audio systems handbook or touch-screen display handbook. • If the battery is disconnected for more than 72 hours the radio preset channels will need to be reset. • Reset the clock to the correct time. • Recalibrate the seat memory positions; these should be readjusted as required as per the handbook The engine electronic control system automatically adapts to certain characteristics of the vehicle. When the battery is disconnected, these adaptations are lost. On reconnection, therefore, some slightly abnormal drive symptoms may occur and the vehicle may need to be driven10 miles (16 kilometres) or more while the control system re-adapts. this is a simple link for resets after battery disconnect Always make sure that all electrical systems are switched OFF before reconnecting the battery to avoid causing sparks or damage to sensitive electrical equipment. Always reconnect the battery positive lead first and the negative last, ensuring that there is a good electrical contact and the battery terminals are secure. Restart the clock (where fitted) and set it to the correct time. enter your radio code or if you do not have it and your S-type was made before 2007 then try the backdoor code below the code only works once you have entered the failed code 3 times Enter any code 3 times so that the display shows "PLEASE WAIT" Simultaneously press ">>" "PTY" "A.MEM" should only take 2 or 3 seconds and the radio turns on. you must press the buttons together i.e. at the same time Please note it has been found that the back door code only works on cars made before 2007 windows each window 1. NOTE: After the battery has been disconnected it is necessary to initialize each door window motor separately to operate the "one-touch" up function. Operate the window control switch until the door window glass is in the fully closed position, continue to operate the window control switch for a further two seconds. 2. Release the window control switch. 3. Operate the window control switch in the closed position and continue to operate the window control switch for a further two seconds. 4. Operate the window control switch until the door window glass is in the fully open position ("one-touch" down). 5. NOTE: If the door window motor initialization has been completed correctly, when the window control switch is operated, the door window glass should move to the fully closed position ("one-touch" up) automatically. • NOTE: If the door window glass does not fully close automatically ("onetouch" up), repeat the complete procedure. Operate the window control switch once to the close position. 6. Repeat the door window motor initialization for each door window motor. now EPB reset 1 Switch off ignition. 2 Disconnect battery for 30 seconds reconnect battery (not required if battery changed). 3 Start the engine. 4 Confirm that the message "NOT CALIBRATED" or "APPLY FOOT AND PARK BRAKE" is displayed on the instrument cluster message centre. This indicates the the parking brake is in calibration mode. 5 Lightly press the foot brake. 6 Apply the parking brake by using the EPB switch. 7 Release the parking brake. 8 Release the foot brake. 9 Confirm that the brake warning lamp is no longer illuminated on the instrument pack and that "NOT CALIBRATED" message is no longer displayed in the message centre. 10 apply and release the EPB 5 times to ensure no error is present. This last bit I have not seen mentioned before neither has my mech, but it is in the manual, Following reconnection of the battery, the engine should be allowed to idle until it has reached normal operating temperature as the stored idle and drive values contained within the ECM have been lost. Allow the vehicle to idle for a further three minutes. Drive the vehicle at constant speeds of approximately 48 km/h (30 mph), 64 km/h (40 mph), 80 km/h (50 mph), 96 km/h (60 mph) and 112 km/h (70 mph) for three minutes each. This may cause a driveability concern if the procedure is not carried out. This will allow the ECM to relearn idle values. |
That's normal for many cars since they became stuffed with modules. Nothing to worry about unless you have a power drain (in which case the new battery if you fully charged it will go flat - as it will if you only do short trips of course, in which case put it on a suitable tender/maintainer).
(EPB reset etc - stickies) |
I replaced the original battery in my 2005 S-Type in April 2015 with absolutely no problems afterwards. No idea why you believe a dealer may need to do this for you....
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I changed the battery just a few weeks ago in mine, piece of cake.
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When I first bought this car I did a bit of reading and that long "resets required" quote above was something I remembered so I found it again and posted it here .. I just went and bought a battery and installed it with no problem as several posts stated while I was out..
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Hi zenfly and greetings from afar. I am one of many, I believe, who will be greatly relieved because (and I choose my words very carefully so as not to offend) if changing a battery on an MY06 S-Type (even with any radio code, global or other reset issues) is beyond you, then . . . it worries me that you may have bought the wrong car!
Please assure me I haven't offended, and be confident that the technical resources and expertise that is shared among people here is simply brilliant . . . nonetheless, these Jaguars, like other contemporary exotic performance cars, are demanding and unrelenting in needing diligent maintenance. By way of example, you can download all the manuals, TSBs, learn to use forum Search Tools to research a vast range of topics, learn to get and use a cheap ELM327 code scanner and a smart charger or battery tender . . . and more. Cheers, :icon_beerchug: Ken |
May as well through this one in.....even though I've swapped batteries in both S-T's many times without need of it, nor any radio code. Window and EPB resets are an annoyance but it is what it is. Plus, you don't hafta do the windows if you don't want the one-touch feature. IIRC, the EPB will constantly show it's alimentary exit point until you reckon with it, however!
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ection-176446/ |
Originally Posted by ZenFly
(Post 1660634)
... I did a general google search for "jaguar s type trouble changing battery" and this other forum was right there with this amazing explanation...
__________________________________________________ __________ Resets Required after Flat Battery or Changing Battery in a Jaguar After battery reconnection After reconnecting the battery: • Reset the electric parkbrake; • Reset the electrically operated windows anti-trap function • The trip computer will lose all recorded trip data and all trip functions will be reset to zero. The vehicle total odometer reading is retained. • The radio will not operate until the correct security code has been re-entered. Refer to the audio systems handbook or touch-screen display handbook. • If the battery is disconnected for more than 72 hours the radio preset channels will need to be reset. • Reset the clock to the correct time. • Recalibrate the seat memory positions; these should be readjusted as required as per the handbook The engine electronic control system automatically adapts to certain characteristics of the vehicle. When the battery is disconnected, these adaptations are lost. On reconnection, therefore, some slightly abnormal drive symptoms may occur and the vehicle may need to be driven10 miles (16 kilometres) or more while the control system re-adapts. this is a simple link for resets after battery disconnect Always make sure that all electrical systems are switched OFF before reconnecting the battery to avoid causing sparks or damage to sensitive electrical equipment. Always reconnect the battery positive lead first and the negative last, ensuring that there is a good electrical contact and the battery terminals are secure. Restart the clock (where fitted) and set it to the correct time. enter your radio code or if you do not have it and your S-type was made before 2007 then try the backdoor code below the code only works once you have entered the failed code 3 times Enter any code 3 times so that the display shows "PLEASE WAIT" Simultaneously press ">>" "PTY" "A.MEM" should only take 2 or 3 seconds and the radio turns on. you must press the buttons together i.e. at the same time Please note it has been found that the back door code only works on cars made before 2007 windows each window 1. NOTE: After the battery has been disconnected it is necessary to initialize each door window motor separately to operate the "one-touch" up function. Operate the window control switch until the door window glass is in the fully closed position, continue to operate the window control switch for a further two seconds. 2. Release the window control switch. 3. Operate the window control switch in the closed position and continue to operate the window control switch for a further two seconds. 4. Operate the window control switch until the door window glass is in the fully open position ("one-touch" down). 5. NOTE: If the door window motor initialization has been completed correctly, when the window control switch is operated, the door window glass should move to the fully closed position ("one-touch" up) automatically. • NOTE: If the door window glass does not fully close automatically ("onetouch" up), repeat the complete procedure. Operate the window control switch once to the close position. 6. Repeat the door window motor initialization for each door window motor. now EPB reset 1 Switch off ignition. 2 Disconnect battery for 30 seconds reconnect battery (not required if battery changed). 3 Start the engine. 4 Confirm that the message "NOT CALIBRATED" or "APPLY FOOT AND PARK BRAKE" is displayed on the instrument cluster message centre. This indicates the the parking brake is in calibration mode. 5 Lightly press the foot brake. 6 Apply the parking brake by using the EPB switch. 7 Release the parking brake. 8 Release the foot brake. 9 Confirm that the brake warning lamp is no longer illuminated on the instrument pack and that "NOT CALIBRATED" message is no longer displayed in the message centre. 10 apply and release the EPB 5 times to ensure no error is present. This last bit I have not seen mentioned before neither has my mech, but it is in the manual, Following reconnection of the battery, the engine should be allowed to idle until it has reached normal operating temperature as the stored idle and drive values contained within the ECM have been lost. Allow the vehicle to idle for a further three minutes. Drive the vehicle at constant speeds of approximately 48 km/h (30 mph), 64 km/h (40 mph), 80 km/h (50 mph), 96 km/h (60 mph) and 112 km/h (70 mph) for three minutes each. This may cause a driveability concern if the procedure is not carried out. This will allow the ECM to relearn idle values. :icon_goodpost: |
Flash...I'm glad someone got some good from it.. I posted it to see if anyone ever needed to do all or any of the procedures on that list.. As some posted above I just went ahead and replaced it with no problem at all.. Before changing I had the Christmas tree lights on the dash I had read about with a constant beeping too that didn't stop right away when I turned the key off..Before restarting to go get the new battery I hooked up my iCarsoft set for the batt volts and the standing was 12.2v but during cranking it dropped to 9.something and I'm surprised it even started with 9.+?v...:icon_beerchug:
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Don't forget to set the kick down as well.
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New Battery last week. 2008 4.2
I was getting intermittent electrical gremlins, like radio not working, no cruise, so when leaving the car on the trickle charger overnight seemed to solve the problems I put in a new battery. Only thing I had to do was set the cl9ck, and reprogram radio stations and memory seats. No fuss on the 2008, and all gremlins slaughtered.
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I changed the battery on my 2004 with similar convenience and no need at all to do the many things listed. Radio was OK. EPB also. Kickdown as well. Had to redo 1-touch windows.
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Ditto for my 2007, except for radio code . . . very pushy on that anti-theft measure in Australia. Still, entering that and doing globals, is a doddle . . . although as [Jumping Jag Flash] says, list is handy to explain the unexpected.
Cheers :icon_beerchug: Ken |
Not so fast for me
I thought everything was fine then I went to start today and had the beeping Christmas tree again. I turned the key off and checked standing battery volts and got 6.7 volts so installing the battery somehow now there is a standing load draining it overnight that wasn't there before.. When I put a test light in a series with one terminal off the battery the test light lights up..I had to pull the bulbs in the trunk because I couldn't find the switch for that test. So anyway I pulled up with my van and hooked up the jumpers and charged the new battery back up well over 12v and it started like nothing ever happened Now the only way I know to isolate the standing load is have my wife watch the test light and I pull fuses one at a time until the light goes out but I learned that in the 70s. Is that still a good way to find the standing load? Thanks
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No, it's not suitable at all.
There are threads with details instead, so you can read them. |
Originally Posted by JagV8
(Post 1664753)
No, it's not suitable at all.
There are threads with details instead, so you can read them. |
Search on related words like battery drain
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Sticky/S Type 'How To' Guides/Miscellaneous
Give that a whirl and report back here if you need additional guidance. |
. . . where the title is "Quiescent Current Drain" and with input from Jaguar itself, and several guiding you here.
Cheers, :icon_beerchug: Ken |
Originally Posted by cat_as_trophy
(Post 1665138)
. . . where the title is "Quiescent Current Drain" and with input from Jaguar itself, and several guiding you here.
Cheers, :icon_beerchug: Ken |
Hey . . . don't sweat it too hard. Purpose in doing that write-up, based on many years of experience by many, was to de-mystify and, most importantly . . . produce a systematic process of identifying which succession of fuses to pull. With the write-up and wiring diagram specific for your MY, even the 60min "sleep time" sees the fault isolation, if not the fix, emerge quickly. Please let us know your results.
Best wishes, :icon_beerchug: Ken |
Originally Posted by ZenFly
(Post 1665204)
Thanks so much. From reading that I understand quiescent drain is normal at rest drain. I knew of it (clock etc.)but had no idea there was a 60min shut down period . First thing I have to do is read/study until I understand the electrical section on my car in the JTIS as suggested and come back to these tests.. Anyway my standing voltage was 12.3 last night and 11.9 12hrs later so I'm pretty sure I'm dealing with more than at rest drain. I have over 14v charging when started then settles to around 13v after running a bit so if I start it every 12hrs I'm good until I figure this out.. I'm guessing this happened when I started it with the old battery with standing 12.1v that dropped to 9 volts with the cranking load. I'm surprised the control module works on 9v.
They work rather intermittently below about 11V so 9V can be a nightmare. Alternator sounds to be working :) |
Thanks Jag..and Cat. That 12.3v was because the new battery went dead with the new standing load on it and wasn't charged all the way.. After driving 20mi it was 12.6 at shut down then settled at 12.5 in 5min or so.. I've been keeping tabs on this slow drain and I lost about 1/10th a volt every 4 hrs. yesterday and went from 12.5v to 12.3v in 8hrs and last night.
__________________________________________________ __________ I had no problems with the battery change. Everything works..radio,window settings, idle.. the car runs great.. I didn't have any standing load on the old battery. The car somehow came up with it . I've done a bit of reading on this and found there are a few battery drain problems that even the dealers couldn't find so some just kept their cars on trickle chargers. I'm still bugging you all that maybe someone had the same problem and found an answer..All that said I think the problem my have been caused before the battery change when the volts dropped to 9v during cranking... Thanks everyone here |
Hi,
The problem with the battery is that the charging system was designed for lead antimony type, they needed a lower charging rate. The new maintenance free batteries which are the only type that is available now require a higher charging rate. The majority of the S types do not produce this voltage so the battery does not get fully charged and the PATS system (car alarm) slowly discharges the battery. This why a battery tender is a good idea. |
. . . and, in line with Jaguar's permissible 30mA after 60 minutes, most fault-free S-Types (and XK and XJ contemparies) tested, actually revealed QCDs of low teens . . . ie <15mA. A few measured lower still . . . <10mA.
At that rate and with new, externally fully charged battery (say 12.9V), it takes about 8 weeks of unattended "sleep" to reach "low 12s" (say <12.3V) when "false faults" will have emerged. That said, use of a smart charger (battery tender) to maintain at least 12.6V, not only solves that problem . . . experience shows it enhances maximum battery life by maintaining battery voltage at optimum fully charged condition. Cheers, :icon_beerchug: Ken |
Thanks both of you above for that info.. I live in a condo and there are no outlets in the parking lot so a trickle charger is out of the question for me.. The Battery that was in before was a regular Interstate that I had no such problem with for almost two years since I bought the car and did not need a charger .It was replaced with a Walmart Maxx that Walmart insured me was the correct battery. Was that Interstate a special battery? It never gave any trouble until it dropped to 9v during cranking load and the lights and beeping began.
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Originally Posted by ZenFly
(Post 1666633)
I live in a condo and there are no outlets in the parking lot so a trickle charger is out of the question for me..
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-s-type-64372/ FWIW, I have fitted small 1.5W panels available from Northern Tool/Harbor Freight for less than $10 (on sale) to the 05 and the 95 X300. Both feeding separate VDC 12V On-Board conditioners, which saved me from fitting regulators. http://www.batteryminders.com/12v-onboard-desulfator |
Originally Posted by aholbro1
(Post 1666649)
Not so fast, there, Kimosabe! While you needn't go to the extreme as I did for my daughter's car, you can follow Gus' excellent lead linked in post #7 here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-s-type-64372/ FWIW, I have fitted small 1.5W panels available from Northern Tool/Harbor Freight for less than $10 (on sale) to the 05 and the 95 X300. Both feeding separate VDC 12V On-Board conditioners, which saved me from fitting regulators. BatteryMINDer® Model OBD-12: 12V On-Board Desulfator |
Originally Posted by ZenFly
(Post 1666680)
the thing is I didn't need anything with the old battery for 2 yrs but I do with the new battery on day one.
How long have you had the new battery? Most new batteries aren't sold fully charged, strange as that may seem. Then consider what is your typical drive routine? If mostly short trips, headlights on, defrost on, heater fan on high, seat heaters in 'rump roast' mode, etc., your battery may not be getting much of a charge, if anything. And if the new battery wasn't fully charged (I'd be VERY surprised if it was), that would aggravate the condition. I vaguely remember reading a car needs at least 20 minutes of running to replenish the energy expended to start the engine. Any less than that, plus the addition of high electrical demands, puts your battery behind the curve. FWIW, I live 35 minutes from work and so far my battery is doing just fine. |
Originally Posted by kr98664
(Post 1666733)
Interesting discussion.
How long have you had the new battery? Most new batteries aren't sold fully charged, strange as that may seem. Then consider what is your typical drive routine? If mostly short trips, headlights on, defrost on, heater fan on high, seat heaters in 'rump roast' mode, etc., your battery may not be getting much of a charge, if anything. And if the new battery wasn't fully charged (I'd be VERY surprised if it was), that would aggravate the condition. I vaguely remember reading a car needs at least 20 minutes of running to replenish the energy expended to start the engine. Any less than that, plus the addition of high electrical demands, puts your battery behind the curve. FWIW, I live 35 minutes from work and so far my battery is doing just fine. |
Actually it is a design feature of the car that it initially changes at 14 v then after a specific time it goes down to 13 volts. It is not dependent on how much the battery is charged.
The maintenance free (lead-calcium) batteries need to be permanently charged at 14 volts. This means that your battery is not being completely recharged. When fully charged it will have a minimum of 12.6 volts after 3 minutes with all the lights turned on after being charged for 20 hours. So depending on what is turned on your car when you drive you probably only have 80% charge in the battery. I put my battery on a tender once a month to ensure that I do not have this program of false codes occurring. |
Originally Posted by Ducmon
(Post 1666821)
Actually it is a design feature of the car that it initially changes at 14 v then after a specific time it goes down to 13 volts. It is not dependent on how much the battery is charged.
The maintenance free (lead-calcium) batteries need to be permanently charged at 14 volts. This means that your battery is not being completely recharged. When fully charged it will have a minimum of 12.6 volts after 3 minutes with all the lights turned on after being charged for 20 hours. So depending on what is turned on your car when you drive you probably only have 80% charge in the battery. I put my battery on a tender once a month to ensure that I do not have this program of false codes occurring. |
Originally Posted by ZenFly
(Post 1666810)
There is a parasitic drain where I will have 11.9v over night.
Or is your assumption of a parasitic drain based solely on the voltage reading? The bulk of the problem could be as simple as the new battery being defective and not holding a charge. Rare, but not impossible. I only ask because the problem has started (or become prevalent) with the battery replacement. Some cheap troubleshooting ideas: 1) Swap in a known-good (and fully charged) battery from another vehicle. 2) Keep the existing suspect battery installed and disconnect it at night. Measure the voltage when first disconnected and then again in the morning. If the voltage still drops excessively while disconnected, you know the battery is bad. 3) A little more involved, but appealing to my inner geek: Fully charge and then disconnect the battery. Rig up a test load of a normal sleep mode drain. Was it 15mA or something like that? An 800 ohm resistor should give you approximately 15mA at a nominal 12 volts. Take before and after voltage readings to see if your new battery can handle a normal overnight drain. |
There are hundreds if not thousands of posts on many forums about this same problem that turned out to be ignition switch, wiper motor , radio , defrost and on and on.. I have to do a real parasitic drain test pulling fuses one at a time but before I do that I want to get it on a real charger that shouldn't take very long when it's already well over 12v. The fact it only drains to 12v overnight and that I use it every day is a plus but I know I can't let it stand 3-4 days.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________ I went to find the JTIS CD I bought 1.5yrs ago then dah! I remembered it didn't work on my Mac and the old laptop we have didn't have the right bits or something.. I googled for a download but they were all dead ends. Once I find the culprit I may very well need a wiring diagram.. any ideas? |
Originally Posted by kr98664
(Post 1666877)
Have you confirmed an actual parasitic drain? In other words, after the 60 minute wait, you've still got X amount of current when it should be only a tiny value.
The case for a new battery failing is perhaps, not as common, but well known examples are here also. Cheers and best wishes., :icon_beerchug: Ken |
JTIS is a free download in the stickies. I wasn't suggesting the solar charger to cover the problem, per se, only to insure your battery remains fully charged if you do short trips and such. Plus, these cars love a toke on "the juice" if, as you remark above, they sit for three or four days. Granted, they should still function, even after several weeks of standing alone, yet they still love a toke on the juice!
In the case where I fitted the 5W VDC, that was to combat VERY short, night time trips, and lots of them, with never any sustained running. She was on-campus and walked everywhere during the day, but didn't feel safe doing so after dark, so almost ALL driving was the distance of a 10 min walk. However, FWIW, here a number of years down the road, the VDC did cover for an intermittent parasitic drain. Car always started and performed fine, sitting two weeks unmolested and all. However, I parked it inside the shop where the sun couldn't get to it and it was dead in a week! Turned out to be the MFS flashing the headlights and turning other lights on for various durations at all hours. Follow Cat's guide and you'll ferret it out. |
Originally Posted by ZenFly
(Post 1666894)
There are hundreds if not thousands of posts on many forums about this same problem that turned out to be ignition switch, wiper motor , radio , defrost and on and on.. I have to do a real parasitic drain test pulling fuses one at a time but before I do that I want to get it on a real charger that shouldn't take very long when it's already well over 12v. The fact it only drains to 12v overnight and that I use it every day is a plus but I know I can't let it stand 3-4 days.
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ____________________________ I went to find the JTIS CD I bought 1.5yrs ago then dah! I remembered it didn't work on my Mac and the old laptop we have didn't have the right bits or something.. I googled for a download but they were all dead ends. Once I find the culprit I may very well need a wiring diagram.. any ideas? |
Originally Posted by Ducmon
(Post 1666964)
go to JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource. you can download the workshop manual as pdf and all of the wiring diagrams as well.
http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...cal-2006on.pdf |
Battery Tender Solar Charger for untethered battery charging
Originally Posted by aholbro1
(Post 1666649)
Not so fast, there, Kimosabe! While you needn't go to the extreme as I did for my daughter's car, you can follow Gus' excellent lead linked in post #7 here:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-s-type-64372/ FWIW, I have fitted small 1.5W panels available from Northern Tool/Harbor Freight for less than $10 (on sale) to the 05 and the 95 X300. Both feeding separate VDC 12V On-Board conditioners, which saved me from fitting regulators. BatteryMINDer® Model OBD-12: 12V On-Board Desulfator 5-Watt Solar Tender Charger #021-1163 NOTE: it should be noted that Deltran, the company that makes Battery Tender, will only ship this product to addresses within the United States. I realized that as I was purchasing one of these solar chargers today for myself. |
Originally Posted by Jumpin' Jag Flash
(Post 1667141)
Here is Battery Tender's 5W solar charger/maintainer with built-in controller to prevent overcharging; $80 and a 5 yr warranty. Seems perfect for cars that don't have access to an electrical connection for a standard charger. Looks like a modern commercial version of what both you and Gus designed years ago, no?
5-Watt Solar Tender Charger #021-1163 NOTE: it should be noted that Deltran, the company that makes Battery Tender, will only ship this product to addresses within the United States. I realized that as I was purchasing one of these solar chargers today for myself. |
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