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Old 04-15-2017, 06:58 AM
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Default New Battery

My 06 S type just went nuts at starting with dash lights and beeping.. I let it run for a minute then shut down and hooked up my iCarsoft and brought up batt volts that were 12.1v engine off and dropped to 10.?v during cranking.. I knew I needed a new battery at the standing 12.1v but it started the second time even with that volt drop and ran with no lights and beeping.. I've changed many batteries in my life but am a little worried about this car because of what I read about possible complications.. I did a general google search for "jaguar s type trouble changing battery" and this other forum was right there with this amazing explanation.. I think I might take this simple battery change to a dealer..
__________________________________________________ __________

Resets Required after Flat Battery or Changing Battery in a Jaguar
After battery reconnection
After reconnecting the battery:
• Reset the electric parkbrake;
• Reset the electrically operated windows anti-trap function
• The trip computer will lose all recorded trip data and all trip functions will be reset to zero. The vehicle total odometer reading is retained.
• The radio will not operate until the correct security code has been re-entered. Refer to the audio systems handbook or touch-screen display handbook.
• If the battery is disconnected for more than 72 hours the radio preset channels will need to be reset.
• Reset the clock to the correct time.
• Recalibrate the seat memory positions; these should be readjusted as required as per the handbook
The engine electronic control system automatically adapts to certain characteristics of the vehicle. When the battery is disconnected, these adaptations are lost.
On reconnection, therefore, some slightly abnormal drive symptoms may occur and the vehicle may need to be driven10 miles (16 kilometres) or more while the control system re-adapts.


this is a simple link for resets after battery disconnect

Always make sure that all electrical systems are switched OFF before reconnecting the battery to avoid causing sparks or damage to
sensitive electrical equipment.
Always reconnect the battery positive lead first and the negative last, ensuring that there is a good electrical contact and the battery
terminals are secure.

Restart the clock (where fitted) and set it to the correct time.

enter your radio code or if you do not have it and your S-type was made before 2007 then try the backdoor code below

the code only works once you have entered the failed code 3 times
Enter any code 3 times so that the display shows "PLEASE WAIT"

Simultaneously press ">>" "PTY" "A.MEM" should only take 2 or 3 seconds and the radio turns on.

you must press the buttons together i.e. at the same time Please note it has been found that the back door code only works on cars made before 2007

windows each window

1. NOTE: After the battery has been disconnected it is necessary to
initialize each door window motor separately to operate the "one-touch"
up function.
Operate the window control switch until the door window glass is in the
fully closed position, continue to operate the window control switch for a
further two seconds.
2. Release the window control switch.
3. Operate the window control switch in the closed position and continue
to operate the window control switch for a further two seconds.
4. Operate the window control switch until the door window glass is in the
fully open position ("one-touch" down).
5. NOTE: If the door window motor initialization has been completed
correctly, when the window control switch is operated, the door window
glass should move to the fully closed position ("one-touch" up)
automatically.
• NOTE: If the door window glass does not fully close automatically ("onetouch"
up), repeat the complete procedure.
Operate the window control switch once to the close position.
6. Repeat the door window motor initialization for each door window
motor.

now EPB reset
1
Switch off ignition.
2 Disconnect battery for 30 seconds reconnect battery (not required if battery changed).
3 Start the engine.
4 Confirm that the message "NOT CALIBRATED" or "APPLY FOOT AND PARK BRAKE" is displayed on the instrument cluster message centre. This indicates the the parking brake is in calibration mode.
5 Lightly press the foot brake.
6 Apply the parking brake by using the EPB switch.
7 Release the parking brake.
8 Release the foot brake.
9 Confirm that the brake warning lamp is no longer illuminated on the instrument pack and that "NOT CALIBRATED" message is no longer displayed in the message centre.
10 apply and release the EPB 5 times to ensure no error is present.

This last bit I have not seen mentioned before neither has my mech, but it is in the manual,

Following reconnection of the battery, the engine should be allowed to idle until it has reached normal operating temperature as the stored
idle and drive values contained within the ECM have been lost. Allow the vehicle to idle for a further three minutes. Drive the vehicle at
constant speeds of approximately 48 km/h (30 mph), 64 km/h (40 mph), 80 km/h (50 mph), 96 km/h (60 mph) and 112 km/h (70 mph) for
three minutes each. This may cause a driveability concern if the procedure is not carried out. This will allow the ECM to relearn idle values.
 

Last edited by ZenFly; 04-15-2017 at 07:14 AM.
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  #2  
Old 04-15-2017, 07:22 AM
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That's normal for many cars since they became stuffed with modules. Nothing to worry about unless you have a power drain (in which case the new battery if you fully charged it will go flat - as it will if you only do short trips of course, in which case put it on a suitable tender/maintainer).

(EPB reset etc - stickies)
 
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Old 04-15-2017, 07:47 AM
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I replaced the original battery in my 2005 S-Type in April 2015 with absolutely no problems afterwards. No idea why you believe a dealer may need to do this for you....
 
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  #4  
Old 04-15-2017, 08:57 AM
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I changed the battery just a few weeks ago in mine, piece of cake.
 
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Old 04-15-2017, 10:45 AM
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When I first bought this car I did a bit of reading and that long "resets required" quote above was something I remembered so I found it again and posted it here .. I just went and bought a battery and installed it with no problem as several posts stated while I was out..
 
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  #6  
Old 04-16-2017, 05:20 AM
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Hi zenfly and greetings from afar. I am one of many, I believe, who will be greatly relieved because (and I choose my words very carefully so as not to offend) if changing a battery on an MY06 S-Type (even with any radio code, global or other reset issues) is beyond you, then . . . it worries me that you may have bought the wrong car!

Please assure me I haven't offended, and be confident that the technical resources and expertise that is shared among people here is simply brilliant . . . nonetheless, these Jaguars, like other contemporary exotic performance cars, are demanding and unrelenting in needing diligent maintenance.

By way of example, you can download all the manuals, TSBs, learn to use forum Search Tools to research a vast range of topics, learn to get and use a cheap ELM327 code scanner and a smart charger or battery tender . . . and more.

Cheers,

Ken
 
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Old 04-16-2017, 07:52 AM
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May as well through this one in.....even though I've swapped batteries in both S-T's many times without need of it, nor any radio code. Window and EPB resets are an annoyance but it is what it is. Plus, you don't hafta do the windows if you don't want the one-touch feature. IIRC, the EPB will constantly show it's alimentary exit point until you reckon with it, however!
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ection-176446/
 
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  #8  
Old 04-18-2017, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by ZenFly
... I did a general google search for "jaguar s type trouble changing battery" and this other forum was right there with this amazing explanation...
__________________________________________________ __________

Resets Required after Flat Battery or Changing Battery in a Jaguar
After battery reconnection
After reconnecting the battery:
• Reset the electric parkbrake;
• Reset the electrically operated windows anti-trap function
• The trip computer will lose all recorded trip data and all trip functions will be reset to zero. The vehicle total odometer reading is retained.
• The radio will not operate until the correct security code has been re-entered. Refer to the audio systems handbook or touch-screen display handbook.
• If the battery is disconnected for more than 72 hours the radio preset channels will need to be reset.
• Reset the clock to the correct time.
• Recalibrate the seat memory positions; these should be readjusted as required as per the handbook
The engine electronic control system automatically adapts to certain characteristics of the vehicle. When the battery is disconnected, these adaptations are lost.
On reconnection, therefore, some slightly abnormal drive symptoms may occur and the vehicle may need to be driven10 miles (16 kilometres) or more while the control system re-adapts.


this is a simple link for resets after battery disconnect

Always make sure that all electrical systems are switched OFF before reconnecting the battery to avoid causing sparks or damage to
sensitive electrical equipment.
Always reconnect the battery positive lead first and the negative last, ensuring that there is a good electrical contact and the battery
terminals are secure.

Restart the clock (where fitted) and set it to the correct time.

enter your radio code or if you do not have it and your S-type was made before 2007 then try the backdoor code below

the code only works once you have entered the failed code 3 times
Enter any code 3 times so that the display shows "PLEASE WAIT"

Simultaneously press ">>" "PTY" "A.MEM" should only take 2 or 3 seconds and the radio turns on.

you must press the buttons together i.e. at the same time Please note it has been found that the back door code only works on cars made before 2007

windows each window

1. NOTE: After the battery has been disconnected it is necessary to
initialize each door window motor separately to operate the "one-touch"
up function.
Operate the window control switch until the door window glass is in the
fully closed position, continue to operate the window control switch for a
further two seconds.
2. Release the window control switch.
3. Operate the window control switch in the closed position and continue
to operate the window control switch for a further two seconds.
4. Operate the window control switch until the door window glass is in the
fully open position ("one-touch" down).
5. NOTE: If the door window motor initialization has been completed
correctly, when the window control switch is operated, the door window
glass should move to the fully closed position ("one-touch" up)
automatically.
• NOTE: If the door window glass does not fully close automatically ("onetouch"
up), repeat the complete procedure.
Operate the window control switch once to the close position.
6. Repeat the door window motor initialization for each door window
motor.

now EPB reset
1
Switch off ignition.
2 Disconnect battery for 30 seconds reconnect battery (not required if battery changed).
3 Start the engine.
4 Confirm that the message "NOT CALIBRATED" or "APPLY FOOT AND PARK BRAKE" is displayed on the instrument cluster message centre. This indicates the the parking brake is in calibration mode.
5 Lightly press the foot brake.
6 Apply the parking brake by using the EPB switch.
7 Release the parking brake.
8 Release the foot brake.
9 Confirm that the brake warning lamp is no longer illuminated on the instrument pack and that "NOT CALIBRATED" message is no longer displayed in the message centre.
10 apply and release the EPB 5 times to ensure no error is present.

This last bit I have not seen mentioned before neither has my mech, but it is in the manual,

Following reconnection of the battery, the engine should be allowed to idle until it has reached normal operating temperature as the stored
idle and drive values contained within the ECM have been lost. Allow the vehicle to idle for a further three minutes. Drive the vehicle at
constant speeds of approximately 48 km/h (30 mph), 64 km/h (40 mph), 80 km/h (50 mph), 96 km/h (60 mph) and 112 km/h (70 mph) for
three minutes each. This may cause a driveability concern if the procedure is not carried out. This will allow the ECM to relearn idle values.
Hey Zenfly - thanks for re-posting all these procedures again. It was a concise, convenient reminder of what I'll need to do when I change my battery sometime in the coming weeks. You saved me the time and trouble of having to look them up again (for the 4th time). Muchas gracias!
 
  #9  
Old 04-18-2017, 12:24 PM
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Flash...I'm glad someone got some good from it.. I posted it to see if anyone ever needed to do all or any of the procedures on that list.. As some posted above I just went ahead and replaced it with no problem at all.. Before changing I had the Christmas tree lights on the dash I had read about with a constant beeping too that didn't stop right away when I turned the key off..Before restarting to go get the new battery I hooked up my iCarsoft set for the batt volts and the standing was 12.2v but during cranking it dropped to 9.something and I'm surprised it even started with 9.+?v...
 
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Old 04-18-2017, 03:36 PM
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Don't forget to set the kick down as well.
 
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Old 04-19-2017, 11:08 AM
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Default New Battery last week. 2008 4.2

I was getting intermittent electrical gremlins, like radio not working, no cruise, so when leaving the car on the trickle charger overnight seemed to solve the problems I put in a new battery. Only thing I had to do was set the cl9ck, and reprogram radio stations and memory seats. No fuss on the 2008, and all gremlins slaughtered.
 
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Old 04-20-2017, 06:04 AM
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I changed the battery on my 2004 with similar convenience and no need at all to do the many things listed. Radio was OK. EPB also. Kickdown as well. Had to redo 1-touch windows.
 
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Old 04-20-2017, 07:50 AM
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Ditto for my 2007, except for radio code . . . very pushy on that anti-theft measure in Australia. Still, entering that and doing globals, is a doddle . . . although as [Jumping Jag Flash] says, list is handy to explain the unexpected.

Cheers

Ken
 
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Old 04-20-2017, 02:50 PM
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Default Not so fast for me

I thought everything was fine then I went to start today and had the beeping Christmas tree again. I turned the key off and checked standing battery volts and got 6.7 volts so installing the battery somehow now there is a standing load draining it overnight that wasn't there before.. When I put a test light in a series with one terminal off the battery the test light lights up..I had to pull the bulbs in the trunk because I couldn't find the switch for that test. So anyway I pulled up with my van and hooked up the jumpers and charged the new battery back up well over 12v and it started like nothing ever happened Now the only way I know to isolate the standing load is have my wife watch the test light and I pull fuses one at a time until the light goes out but I learned that in the 70s. Is that still a good way to find the standing load? Thanks
 
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Old 04-20-2017, 02:59 PM
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No, it's not suitable at all.

There are threads with details instead, so you can read them.
 
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Old 04-20-2017, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by JagV8
No, it's not suitable at all.

There are threads with details instead, so you can read them.
I can't seem to find threads with details .. can you suggest any? thanks
 
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Old 04-20-2017, 05:35 PM
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Search on related words like battery drain
 
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Old 04-20-2017, 06:35 PM
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Sticky/S Type 'How To' Guides/Miscellaneous


Give that a whirl and report back here if you need additional guidance.
 
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Old 04-21-2017, 03:55 AM
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. . . where the title is "Quiescent Current Drain" and with input from Jaguar itself, and several guiding you here.

Cheers,

Ken
 
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Old 04-21-2017, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by cat_as_trophy
. . . where the title is "Quiescent Current Drain" and with input from Jaguar itself, and several guiding you here.

Cheers,

Ken
Thanks so much. From reading that I understand quiescent drain is normal at rest drain. I knew of it (clock etc.)but had no idea there was a 60min shut down period . First thing I have to do is read/study until I understand the electrical section on my car in the JTIS as suggested and come back to these tests.. Anyway my standing voltage was 12.3 last night and 11.9 12hrs later so I'm pretty sure I'm dealing with more than at rest drain. I have over 14v charging when started then settles to around 13v after running a bit so if I start it every 12hrs I'm good until I figure this out.. I'm guessing this happened when I started it with the old battery with standing 12.1v that dropped to 9 volts with the cranking load. I'm surprised the control module works on 9v.
 


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