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Originally Posted by ZenFly
(Post 1667150)
Thanks for that.. they're on Amazon for $60 delivered. I have a boat out there too so this is great for me.
BTW - Deltran actually sells 3 sizes of solar charger: 5W is 14" x 16" x 1"; 10W is 14" x 28" x 1"; 15W is 14" x 40" x 1". |
I just discovered my trusty Fluke 16 only has a setting for microamps so I was checking this cheep one from HF.. any comments or suggestions? It appears this has amps and miliamps.
LCD Automotive Multimeter with Tachometer Kit or this one? http://www.harborfreight.com/11-func...ity-61593.html |
Hmmm...I've got 5 or 6 of the free ones: Digital Multimeter - Save on this 7 Function Digital Multimeter
Yeah, it's listed for $5.99 but it's not too hard to find a one page ad in the electric co-op magazine offering 20% off any one item and one of these as the free gift, alongside an LED flashlight and maybe a set of 9 or a dozen screwdrivers. Seem to work fine, for what i've used them for so far. |
Kimosabe!! that's rich Zane. I love it. I am still laughing since that post. Thanks buddy!
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Originally Posted by joycesjag
(Post 1667361)
Kimosabe!! that's rich Zane. I love it. I am still laughing since that post. Thanks buddy!
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Originally Posted by joycesjag
(Post 1667361)
Kimosabe!! that's rich Zane. I love it. I am still laughing since that post. Thanks buddy!
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Originally Posted by aholbro1
(Post 1667503)
Hehe, Rick.....I had to google it....I was gonna spell it with two "e's".......
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Originally Posted by ZenFly
(Post 1667278)
I just discovered my trusty Fluke 16 only has a setting for microamps so I was checking this cheep one from HF.. any comments or suggestions? It appears this has amps and miliamps.
LCD Automotive Multimeter with Tachometer Kit or this one? 11 Function Digital Multimeter with Audible Continuity |
Originally Posted by ZenFly
(Post 1667693)
I'm retired...
Back to the meters, I'd suggest the second one. It can handle up to 20 amps continuously, versus only 10 amps (on a duty cycle) for the first one. Plus there's no way you could use that tach attachment on an S-Type, so why pay extra? Be prepared for HF-shaming, though. Not gonna say I go there all the time, but I do have a reserved parking space right up front. Wear a paper bag over your head and you should be fine. And don't forget your 20% off coupon. One last thought on a meter: It may be worthwhile to shop for one with autorange and min/max recording. The recording feature is perfect for capturing transient values you'd otherwise miss unless you kept your eyes glued to the meter all night. Before even shopping for a new meter, I'd still suggest the free troubleshooting ideas I listed in post #33. You've got all sorts of free time to try... |
Dayum Karl! That's not what Wiki said it meant.....
Zen, I was serious about the free meter. I do have 5 or 6 of them and rarely ever get out the more expensive one I've had for years. I'll also admit to having the clamp-on one that shows up as an alternate (7 Function Clamp-On Digital Multimeter ) when you click your link, but I did pay for that one, albeit with a 20% off coupon. I guess I need to re-read the documentation on it....ad claims only ac current....I used it to confirm I didn't have a battery drain issue on the 03 S-Type after fitment of the new MFS. That was definitely dc current...I got values...they were within spec.... Let me put it this way, if there is ANYTHING else in the store you need or fancy, I'd use the 20% on that and pick up the free meter. If not, use the 20% on whichever meter you decide to get, and pick up the free meter as well. The free meter is thus far, the absolute favorite of all their free gifts! (Of course, this advice pre-supposes you can find a coupon offering a free meter!) *Besides, I found a 10-pack of the LED flashlights at Tractor Supply one Christmas for about $3.99 or something...including batteries!!! |
I'm going to take Karl's advice and do some easy tests first.. I have a known good battery in my van so I'll put that in the Jag overnight and see if the new battery holds standing alone. I should have done this last night..and thanks it's good to know those cheep meters will be ok if needed.
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Hey Zane . . . great advice on these autostore giveaways. Our local had a recent promo of $1 big cans of spray degreaser - limit 2 per customer. Walked in & out 3 times to get stuff I wanted, but really attracted to those 6 cans - until manager started to frown . . .
Your comment about DVMs is good advice . . . I have so many, from shirt pocket friendly through to true RMS, clamp type, some with hold, some with temp, frequency etc right up to wideband CROs. Most valuable, and at the level of most use to DIYers here, are the low cost digital DVMs . . . never costing over $10. Another tip . . . any shortcoming in measuring higher currents than DVM provides is easily met by making a suitable shunt of nichrome wire wrapped onto a 10W ww resistor. Cheers, :icon_toast: Ken |
Ken,
I got HEAPS of those cans. Kids owe me big time for the rest of their lives. 6 cans per customer, so, Son, Daughter, their partners, and spousey, and me, and some double ups. Not much degreasing these days, the S Types are oil tight. I use it as Spider kill., followed by a match, whoosh. AS for meters, I have a super $$ one, still in its plastic sealed bag after 20++ years. I use a CHEAP Arlec brand I paid $20 for about 30 years ago almost daily for something. It is simple to use, and has a 10amp capacity, and was more than sufficient to use on the Silver car to find the drain it had waaaaay back. |
I have numbers
Originally Posted by kr98664
(Post 1666877)
Have you confirmed an actual parasitic drain? In other words, after the 60 minute wait, you've still got X amount of current when it should be only a tiny value.
Or is your assumption of a parasitic drain based solely on the voltage reading? The bulk of the problem could be as simple as the new battery being defective and not holding a charge. Rare, but not impossible. I only ask because the problem has started (or become prevalent) with the battery replacement. Some cheap troubleshooting ideas: 1) Swap in a known-good (and fully charged) battery from another vehicle. 2) Keep the existing suspect battery installed and disconnect it at night. Measure the voltage when first disconnected and then again in the morning. If the voltage still drops excessively while disconnected, you know the battery is bad. 3) A little more involved, but appealing to my inner geek: Fully charge and then disconnect the battery. Rig up a test load of a normal sleep mode drain. Was it 15mA or something like that? An 800 ohm resistor should give you approximately 15mA at a nominal 12 volts. Take before and after voltage readings to see if your new battery can handle a normal overnight drain. |
Zenfly, normal current drain will be around the 30 milliamperes mark after 45 minutes. Usual places to check first are the alarm chirp sounder, this can be disconnected if faulty. Modules in the trunk may have damp causing partial shorts, make sure your auto functions are switched off and the ignition barrel flap is closing when the key is removed.
Should give you something to go on for a while. |
Originally Posted by jimbov8
(Post 1668630)
Zenfly, normal current drain will be around the 30 milliamperes mark after 45 minutes. Usual places to check first are the alarm chirp sounder, this can be disconnected if faulty. Modules in the trunk may have damp causing partial shorts, make sure your auto functions are switched off and the ignition barrel flap is closing when the key is removed.
Should give you something to go on for a while. |
I had no idea a faulty ignition barrel switch can cause the car to not switch off completely when the car is turned off hence continuing to drain the battery.. thanks for the tips
edit: I just checked and it seems to be closed or closing I say because it has a small opening on the right of less than 1/32 or .25mm but I can see that little door there that I never ever gave a thought to.. I'm really not sure what I'm looking for here . Does it need to be closed all the way? |
Yes it does. And regardless of whether or not you believe it is operating properly, it certainly would not hurt to go ahead and lube it. Some folks use powdered graphite....
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Mine makes a sort of whirring sound as I insert the key and again when I remove the key, which is handy in terms of knowing it's working. I don't know if they all do that.
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Originally Posted by JagV8
(Post 1668795)
Mine makes a sort of whirring sound as I insert the key and again when I remove the key, which is handy in terms of knowing it's working. I don't know if they all do that.
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