Oh my good god that has to be the best thing I have ever seen/heard. Please give details into how that pipe was made, materials, and cost!

And what does you butt-dyno think of this new intake?

 

that looks kinda like the mina gallery MAF

 

It is, I had the Mina first, used the MAF housing and made the rest.

 

also looks like the MAF housing from the mazda6 too. I should do a side by side comparison when i get home. Never really thought about that till just now............. hmmmmmm

 

As far as the process, the pipe was originally for a Supra intercooler and was sandblasted clean and then wrinklecoated to get the black finish to match. Used the same breather connection at the motor with a new tube and instead of welding on a nipple tapped the tube and used #10 fittings, used the MAF from the Mina, 3' couplers, and tube was formed more into an oval to match at the inlet. As far as power, the baseline on the dyno was the Mina gallery (which they say picks up ten...), changing that out pulled an additional 5whp across the power band. I did not do a run with the stock airbox. As this was fabricated while I was there at the shop (the owner is a good friend) it would be hard for me to guess a price, but the components by themselves can add up from the couplers, the pipe, the fittings, the MAF housing (assuming you didnt start with the Mina), the filter, and the coating. If you are interested I can put you in touch with them.

 

it looks sweet! with conical filter then swapping the stock tube to the 3" tube gave 5rwhp? If so, that's crazy!

Were the dyno runs done with the hood open or closed?

 

hood open with fans, 3-5 whp across the power band. At the end of the day the 2.5lb pulley, low temp thermostat, intake change, x-pipe (already did mufflers), picked up 30+whp over the initial run which was mina intake and high-flow mufflers. The bigger suprise was the torque pickup, car feels completely different now. I am loading up the videos and pictures and will post a good thread.

 

so what was your final numbers? can you post the dyno sheet?

 

I will have to get the sheets, their dyno reads a lot lower compared to a dynojet as it is load bearing using an eddy brake. Initial pulls with only mufflers/mina intake were around 285-290 whp (most people on the forum say a dynojet stock is 315 so you can see the difference in dynos). This seemed dissapointing at first until an older M3 came in with chip/intake/exhaust/etc. from the BMW shop across the street and put down 208, he said he normally runs above 240, so this made me feel a little better (however the supra in the shop that laid down 800 quickly put me back into my place though, see pic below).

Due to the car wanting to downshift we brought the car up to about 95 and then made runs in fourth gear up to 135 to get the power number without any shift peaks. Here is a video after all the work had been done, the pull was 333. In all I had a good pick up for the money spent and was happy with the work.

 

That's like car ****. What a great thread and thanks!

 

Good Stuff, and thanks for sharing your experiences! Looking forward to the dyno slips.

Just a note Dyno jet has also Load based systems with an eddy current, and I do agree that a load based system will give more honest figures. Make sure you have always the same tire pressure, another big factor, especially on the dual drum per wheel systems (when rwhp is the number you look for on these).

On the road I am sure you will get better power (with the hood closed) with a cold air intake like the stock one. Try this once, come with a warm engine, and do then a run (with closed hood), then compare the figures when you have properly cooled down the intercooler circuit (let it idle for a while and have the external fan on the radiator), then do another run (with stock box or the hot air filter with open hood). This could give you results that will vary in the 10-20 rwhp range.

This is also why I always have a heatgun with me on a dyno, so I can ensure that the intercooler coolant is the same between runs to compare different setups, heat has an big effect.

Andre.

 

That was my only concern regarding this experiment andre.. The open cone filter will put down great numbers with the hood open and a good fan circulating cool air over the filter, but on a summer day with the hood closed, it may be vastly worse.. I have some personal experience with this in turbo'd cars. Driving conditions can alter the horsepower quite a bit. The intake sounds excellent in the videos, but I'm still wary of installing a short ram style intake like this. Eric

 

In all of the runs (and there were a lot over a three day period) I do wonder how much the intake really picks up under all configurations, in the end the pulley was obviously the difference maker. I will note that the tube that fed the original box was left in place and stills fed directly onto one side of the cone, it would be nice if someone would make something that could seal off that area of the engine bay a little to avoid heat off of the engine, maybe next time.

Here was another short video I found on the camera, not much to it, just pulling back in and tires slipped a little, but it kind of makes laugh as to the new sound the car is making from both the new intake and the new exhaust, definately a change.

 

Hey Evan, when you did the pulley swap and drained the coolant, did you drain the s/c radiator as well? I'm asking b/c I will be changing my pulley sometime this week and to top up the s/c with coolant I will need a 24mm or 25mm hex socket... not sure which one

 

We pulled the main coolant plug underneath the car on the driver side and that gets everything you need. You have to remove the coolant tank and the coolant crossover pipe (which also houses the thermostat which we replaced) and that has hex screws, be careful with these and remove by hand as oppossed to an air tool as they strip easily. We even had to loosen the radiator to make room for the pulley removal tool.

The tool works well but my old pulley was on fairly tight, we had to apply a little heat from a propane torch for it to pop off of the original position as the intial pressure was actually bending the edges of the pulley where it met the tool. Also a small note the plug in the pulley shaft (which in my case was plastic) screws out and doesnt pull out.

 

thank you for the pics and info, that will help greatly! how long did the pulley swap take?

 

Hard to say as we took our time, got food and had beer midway through, was in no rush. But if you really wanted to I would think a couple hours would do, the longest part was shaving down the nose and getting that as even and clean as possible. Have fun.

 

The supercharger whine in the first vid is awsome!!! sounds like it should do.....would be intersted to know if you still get the increased level of supercharger whine from just a smooth straight pipe (ie dumping the standard intake with all its chamber ports) but keeping the standard airbox in place to keep temps down.

anyone here got this type of set up?? and of course vids!!!

Cheers in advance.