Rear pads 2005 S-Type question
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Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 33
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From: Charlotte, NC
Rear pads 2005 S-Type question
Hey all,
Rear pads on my 2005 S-Type BASE 3.0L need replacing. Down to around 1/6"(1.5mm). I have the new pads and they match up and were only $40. Rotors are fine and true. I know I need (and will rent) the caliper Ford tool for pressing/rotating the calipers. Done many a Ford vehicles. I also know the trick to keep the elec brake from engaging while turning off the car. Just tested it. And I know about the bolts that have to come off to be able to rotate/remove the caliper. Looks all pretty easy.
Question is: will I have any problems along the way if I go through the "normal" disc brake pad replacement that I've done many times on regular cars? Will the elec brake motor lock it all up and cause me grief?
Thanks to all !!
Rear pads on my 2005 S-Type BASE 3.0L need replacing. Down to around 1/6"(1.5mm). I have the new pads and they match up and were only $40. Rotors are fine and true. I know I need (and will rent) the caliper Ford tool for pressing/rotating the calipers. Done many a Ford vehicles. I also know the trick to keep the elec brake from engaging while turning off the car. Just tested it. And I know about the bolts that have to come off to be able to rotate/remove the caliper. Looks all pretty easy.
Question is: will I have any problems along the way if I go through the "normal" disc brake pad replacement that I've done many times on regular cars? Will the elec brake motor lock it all up and cause me grief?
Thanks to all !!
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From: Sunny South Carolina
Nope, sounds like you have a good grip on this project. Just make sure the nub on backside of brake pad is seated in the V groove of rear piston. Save the coctails for after the job 
.
.So guys, there was a slight squeal from joycesjags rear brakes. I figured ok coming up on 60k must be the pads. Well after removing the wheels and "inspecting" the pads, they looked to be in really good shape. So being as **** as I am, I decided to have the rotors turned, while they were being turned, I came home to "clean" the calipers, I broke out the paint instead and did some touch up. I moved on to the fronts as well.
Looks REALLY nice when I put everything back together! Went for a drive this morn and mannnnnnn, I "F'd" something up. First the brake pedal is very soft and there is a clunking sound (and felt through the pedal) when stomped on.
Being Easter Sunday (playing a very hungover Easter bunny) I did not even attempt of pulling the wheels back off and peeking at my so called work from yesterday. Thanks for Joyce having the day off tomorrow, I will go back and see what the heck I did.
Lesson learned, don't share a gallon of Absolute with sister inlaw
and work on vehicle! 
Looks REALLY nice when I put everything back together! Went for a drive this morn and mannnnnnn, I "F'd" something up. First the brake pedal is very soft and there is a clunking sound (and felt through the pedal) when stomped on.
Being Easter Sunday (playing a very hungover Easter bunny) I did not even attempt of pulling the wheels back off and peeking at my so called work from yesterday. Thanks for Joyce having the day off tomorrow, I will go back and see what the heck I did.
Lesson learned, don't share a gallon of Absolute with sister inlaw
and work on vehicle!
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Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 33
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From: Charlotte, NC
Thanks for the help! And the 'indexing' tip.
And yes, cocktails when it's done.
Just wondering if I should have the trans in neutral or leave it in park. Going to lift one side at a time and chock the wheels in all spots fore and aft. No real need to rotate the hub. Just a simple 'relax caliper, lift caliper, press caliper in, install pads, pump them tight, repeat other side.
And yes, cocktails when it's done.
Just wondering if I should have the trans in neutral or leave it in park. Going to lift one side at a time and chock the wheels in all spots fore and aft. No real need to rotate the hub. Just a simple 'relax caliper, lift caliper, press caliper in, install pads, pump them tight, repeat other side.
Thread Starter
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Member
Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 33
Likes: 7
From: Charlotte, NC
Thanks for letting me know to keep it park. Wasn't sure. Appreciate that tip.
I'll let everyone know the job went, once we get a decent break in the weather in Charlotte, NC.
Just my weekend toy and have my main car to drive.
I'll let everyone know the job went, once we get a decent break in the weather in Charlotte, NC.
Just my weekend toy and have my main car to drive.
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Joined: Aug 2019
Posts: 33
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From: Charlotte, NC
Hey all,
Finally did the rear pads and it went perfect just like your typical Ford twist-in caliper brake job.
No bracket removal or EPB cable removal either. Just the bottom caliper bolt and the unit swivels up to replace the pads and twist/push the piston back in with the rented tool kit. A plus is both sides rotate in clockwise, so there is no left handed rewind that needs that 2nd pusher that goes counter clockwise. Aligned the slot on the piston for the nub on the pads, a few hard pumps on the brake to seat the piston with the engine off and the EPB reset with no problem.
Thanks again for the help and tips from everyone!
Finally did the rear pads and it went perfect just like your typical Ford twist-in caliper brake job.
No bracket removal or EPB cable removal either. Just the bottom caliper bolt and the unit swivels up to replace the pads and twist/push the piston back in with the rented tool kit. A plus is both sides rotate in clockwise, so there is no left handed rewind that needs that 2nd pusher that goes counter clockwise. Aligned the slot on the piston for the nub on the pads, a few hard pumps on the brake to seat the piston with the engine off and the EPB reset with no problem.
Thanks again for the help and tips from everyone!
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