Removing Throttle Body on 2006 STR
 

Followed the supercharger removal instructions but stuck at Throttle Body. Instructions say remove IAC connector but im not sure which one that is. From there it gives no guidance fir the TB.

Any hints on what needs to be done to get the TB off?
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If I remember correctly there are 4 bolts that hold it down. Your second picture shows one of them. I would remove that fender brace to get more clearance.
Once you remove these 4 bolts you'll be able to better see and remove any connectors to it.

there are only two electrical connectors both visible from the top , there are also two coolant hoses connected to the side of the TB,
as well as
the four bolts Blackcat mentioned , thats it!

Thanks. It looked that easy but I wanted to nake sure. I have a few days before the parts come in so I have some time to play

If I remember correctly those TB bolts are also the same ones used for the EGR. These round very easily so be careful on the EGR. Fortunately I went to Home Depot and they happen to have the exact same bolts. I would also order new bolts that connect the elbow to the rear of the supercharger If I were you (Home Depot won't have these :) ). Also invest in bolt extracting sockets; these have saved my butt on a couple of occasions and definitely paid for themselves.

Put the 2 best bolts (with the least rounded points) on the EGR - difficult access there. If the other 4 are still OK use them on the throttle body - easy access. The heater hoses need to be unclamped and held back with a bungee cord or wire to get at the EGR bolts. I also had to unbolt the heater hose brackets along the inside right frame rail to get them to pull back enough.

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Thanks guys! I bought 4 new bolts for the back of the blower since they were sealing bolts. I didnt want to have to do this twice.

I have a pretty good set of various sized and shaped easy outs just in case. Ive been collecting tools for years. Just got a two post lift!

I didnt buy the 2” bypass hose from the throttle body to the the Intake. Its Pn AJ82756. It was $40 but the old one appeared good. Still 100,000 miles on it. I should buy one. Whatchathink?

Yes, buy the hose. You don't want to do that job twice...

Throttle body is off. Half the Egr is off (tube end). Gonna get more done today
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What a PAIN IN THE ASS!!! Ive had the bolts and nuts off since 10 am. Finally managed to get the damn thing out. It was jammed in there something fierce!!
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Check that exhaust to egr tube for cracks and leaks. It's a common issue on these.

amen to that.....got mine with a small leak to be fixed when weather cools in October.....not throwing a code yet, but I can hear it real lightly when egr is closed.....been reading every egr related post getting ready for it

The more I look at Aarcuda's threads and photos the less enthusiasm I have for doing this. He's providing the gory details most of the other threads left out. He's got a garage and a lift. I'm doing this on my pavers driveway, on a pair of jacks stands, with a sometimes shade cover I have to put up and take down every day, all under great protest from a lot of people including my wife. It's really a shame that this repair requires so much disassembly and that the "while your at it" quotient rises so quickly.

Given the amount of stuff that needs to get "touched" I'd be very hesitant to farm this out. I think you could count on follow on failures due to sloppy assembly. Not to mention probable cosmetic damage.

Its tough. But im posting pics and showing where the ratchets and extensions worked on the STR.
Ike you said, many of the pists left off critical info.

The Egr pipe nuts are a 12 mm not 10mm as written somewhere. The EGR bolts are 8 mm. Not 10mm.

10mm swivel headed wrench will get the two BRACET BOLTS on the sides of the supercharger elbow. Im not sure anyone ever mentioned those.

Also remove the damn heater hoses from the firewal and passenger side frame rail. It makes a HUGE DIFF

remove every electrical connector you can out back. Youll need the slavk later. .

ALSO REMOVE THE 2 small 10 mm nuts holding the plastic wire loom to the back of the throttle body bracket. Without it the egr is locked in place. It wiggles but wont budge until you lossen that loom up

I don't have swivel headed stuff so I'm headed over to pick up some. I doubt I'll buy the super compact style like you have shown though. I also need a set of deep sockets as that air cleaner housing has very long studs ...

The thermostat crossover piece came out OK. Thankfully those torx headed bolts are nothing like the the ones on the actual thermostat elbow. Either someone already had this off or they didn't use loctite on these.

So now I'm trying to remove the center air intake horn. I got the top rear clamp loosened way up and sprayed some WD40 on it to hopefully allow it to release. I assume the bottom one stays as is? Then on the front that big rubber donut got sprayed as well and I'll try and wiggle the thing free. It's out.

I was thinking that the main electrical connector in front of the cabin air box should get loosened. I got two of the bolts out for the bracket and have now discovered a 3rd bolt back where the sun don't shine. Never mind this it came out OK WO moving this ... for now ...

Working on modern cars like this is sheer punishment what with all the sharp edges and lack of access.

Not a lot of corrosion or crude on my cooling system so that's good but all the hoses are getting replaced. Which probably means the front bumper has to come off ... Been there already a couple of times for the HID headlamps.

Off to the tool store and up next is all the electrical connectors near the throttle body then a look again at everybody's notes.

Get 6 point sockets not 12.. I unbolted that electrical connector and moved it aside connected.
Ya thats how the intake piececomes off- up in back as you slide forward off the pin on the blower
good luck

im sore as hell
im 6'6" so bending over and crawling and reaching and leaning SUCKS.. plus my hands are like brear paws so they get stuck behind the motor. a lot

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So I'm at the remove the TB stage now.
My car is up on jack stands and I'm not 6'6" so I now need a platform to be able to even see back there. I got the smaller electrical connector off of the TB but in just touching it the retaining tab broke ...

Then another part of the connector cracked and almost fell in!

The other side which is much larger came right off just great.

So I guess I have to find the two hose connections and detach them then the 4 bolts from above. I see the crimp on hose connectors.
Looks like those pop open with a screw driver? Note sure what to do when reassembling. Probably Norma screw hose clamps.

Here's what mine looks like so far. You will, note that side of one of the intercoolers looks very dirty as though that seal had been leaking or perhaps from the intake manifold below?

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Im thinking our pcv valves are leaking and causing oil mist there. My valve cover is oily by the pcv valve.

I left the vacuum tube in the base of the throttle body elbow that goes to the brake booster until it was out of the car. Then I get it out easy

So it looks like I'm only halfway ON THE THROTTLE BODY. UGH! I got the upper butterfly valve part off. That part you're showing is still bolted to the back of the supercharger.

Perhaps I'm missing something here but none of these threads really show how to do this except for the easiest parts. I'm looking at his now and I can't even spot the EGR valve and I haven't clue how to get the supercharger off. Two bolts on the front is all I see then there's this bottom half of the throttle body that appears to be bolted to the back of the SC? But there are still so many hoses and wiring harnesses that I just can't see anything. It's a hell of a mess. Even though some of these pieces were hard to get off they'll be even worse to get back on.

I took the heater hoses off but I still can't see a GD thing.

Clearly all of this was assembled with the engine out of the car and then engine was probably slipped in from below on a front sub frame?
This car wasn't meant to be serviced, just driven till it broke something bad like this.and thrown away. It's criminal that's a simple hose but there's nothing simple about replacing this hose. It's STR's Achilles's heel.

I go on vacation for 10 days on Thursday when I come back I have a hard decision to make. This car is looking like it just needs to go away. Another Kars For Kids donation I guess.

You can do this. Relax. I have pucs to show. Its easy from here on out. Let me know when youre ready. Im cleaning parts to get ready to go back together
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Looks like pep talk photos from Darth Vader ... :icon_dance-cpatch:

Ife tried posting these all day now but I keep getting jammed. Too much for the server I guess

guys once you disconnect the two plastic pipes (PCV & EVAP canister) from the left of the supercharger intake elbow down the back of the engine .
you can move the loom over a little on the left and remove one of the two bolts, that are on ether side of the elbow rear bracket ., the right one has easy access in comparison . my 3/8 ratchet fits in there ok .
i find the easiest way to get the rear supercharger mounting bolt out is to remove the 4 bots on the back of the blower .
and remove the elbow manifold off the back of the blower first .
and reverse for refit .
and also if you do the 1.5 blower pulley upgrade , the smaller pulley does not require the water bypass manifold to be removed at all .
as the upgrade pulley fits through the gap .the stock pulley does not .

Staatsof, yes you have a boost leak in that slip coupling .
you do not need the car up at all bar for opening the two radiator drains and draining them .
put it back down for ease sake .
warning . once you have successfully completed this valley pipe job , the word gets round fast .

i've had my blower off 3 times once for the valley pipe ,plus i had to drill out a broken front blower mount bolt from in the Block so count your selves lucky if that doesn't happen ,
once for a broken blower coupler ,
and once to fit the KB.
and i have done a 06 XKR , these are a walk in the park after an STR .
This weekend i'm starting this job for the 5th time , this time on a friends new to him 02 STR .
im keeping optimistic .

Yes I have a lift but after draining the coolant, the car has been on the ground since. No need to put it up. Everything is done bent over the engine!

seems like the more parts I order, the more I need. Heres a partial list of parts so far
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You and the Marquis de Sade must be related ... ;)

Having it up in the air has actually saved my back but now it's time to take it down.
I began this horror story not completely sure where the leak was. I still haven't got under the SC yet so if it's not leaking there LOOK OUT! :p

I also had an engine oil leak which is due to the crappy NAPA Gold filter.

Getting up and down with two floor jacks and a pair of jacks stands is something I swore I wouldn't do again. I even bought a portable lift Quick Jack in December for this but it's tied up on another project. I wasn't expecting this right now, who does? So I'll have to put the thing back up to install all the belly pan bits and I think the front bumper IS going to need to come off to facilitate installing all of the hoses?

No more attempts at progress until I get back from vacation in about 2 weeks. But I will be watching till I leave. Other stuff to do.

I'd like to order the proper swivel ratcheting box wrench set.

I don't see any 6-point. Which sizes MUST I have to finish this job, EGR removal and anything else?

I see 8, 10, 12 and maybe 13mm noted.


How short do they need to be. Are 12 points good enough?

That soft carbon deposit in the elbow beneath the TB will also be clogging the cooling matrixes in the charge coolers making them nearly useless.

Why not take them off and soak in a soft carbon removal solution to clean them out AND think about fitting an oil catch can to help prevent such build up in the future.

I will be doing both!

Where specifically would you suggest fitting a drain point so that it's a low point and can also be accessible to opened for draining. The entire thing is also going to be under pressure when the SC is at full boost. So the hose from the drainage point to the catch can will have to be quite stout.

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An oil catch can is usually fitted in series with the high load breather pipe system on the passenger side of engine.

I think with an STR you may have less room than I have.

Yes. I plan on finding a way to take the output from the pcv valve on the passenger side valve cover and send it to the catch can and take the outlet of catch can an connect it to the line going to throttle body elbow

Mine is a bit of a "kluge" however I have not damaged the piping going to the throttle body so I can return to original.

No doubt mine will look close to yours!!

i don't think there's a tidy way ,
here's where mine is . it's easy to service .
no cutting required ,
just a cigarette lighter or heat gun softens the plastic hose on the clip on pipe elbow at the diaphragm end .
and it just slides out . and will slide back on to return to stock .
it important to chose heavy duty vacuum proof hose .
mine hydraulic supply hose .


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So im homeward bound. Been cleaning the hell out of everything so I can see leaks easier. Plus it looks nice. Im at the install stage. Changed my plugs and knock sensors and pcv valve and fuel injectors (hopefully I got the tight ones)

heres some progress pics
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And more.
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One word of caution. Like you I blocked all open ports for obvious reasons.

However I also blocked the inlet of the super charger in such a way that when I pulled the screwed up paper towel out I left half of it in pace!.

It was facing away from me when I did that and when I tried starting the car it stalled because the half a paper towel jammed the SC rotors.

I had to disassemble the damn thing to get the remains of the paper towel out. To be safe I redid the rear bearings as well.

Understood. I was trying to clean the residue from the spark plug threads using these swabs I borrowed from work. But stopped after the stick came out of the hole without the cotton on it! Ya. The cotton wasnt glued on.
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Eeks!

Iblew out the hole with compressed ait real good but shit, seriously???