Unfortunately I think no-one from Jaguar (i.e. the actual company) monitors let alone responds on this forum. The techs all appear to be non-Jaguar employees. Maybe they can feed back that this is a fault but what will Jaguar do? Maybe issue a strengthened pipe - that would be a good start.

 

Well at least two of the techs on this forum are current factory Jaguar mechanics.
.
.
.

 

Er.... do you mean that? I understood them to work at jaguar dealers, which will be franchises won't they? And thus those techs are not part of Jaguar.

 

OK. I am not sure if the dealers are considered part of Jaguar or not? Jaguar has all independent dealers? Sorry I just meant they were true Jaguar mechanics.
.
.
.

 

All cars have sustained pressure in the cooling system which gradually dissipates after the car cools down. Most cars today have squirrely complicated hoses running all over the place. My 2001 Sable wagon with 140K miles is not dissimilar in that regard and no hose leaks.

Something is unique about this leak & bulging in that spot. Once it weakens it leaks due to a construction failure.

With that many cars reported on this board (small percentage of the S-type R universe) it's obviously a problem.

Bob S.

 

It could be a touchy issue for them to discuss about a car this new.

 

No worries. I reckon they're all independents (or franchises, near enough the same). Which sadly means that Jaguar (the company) are a further step away from the customer's actual problems than many may expect.

 

The type of hose failures that we are seeing is fairly common. The hose will usually fail very close to one end of the hose close to where it is attached. I had a similar hose fail last week. It was connected to the thermostat housing and luckily it was easy to get to!! Take a look at this information from Gates.


Hot News About Coolant Hose Failure
Coolant Hose Failure Is Linked To Electrochemical Attack... Until recently, most coolant hose failures were generally thought to be caused by heat cracking, yarn failure and cold cracks. Now, after years of testing, engineers with Gates Corporation in Denver, Colorado, have identified the primary cause of failure as an "electrochemical attack" on the tube compound used in upper radiator, bypass and heater hoses. The following report describes this phenomenon and what it means.

The Problem Defined

Contributing Factors

Preventing Failure

 

Interest stuuf. But it still failed rather severely on only one end of the hose. Something's up on that end of the hose. Good reason to upgrade to silicone hose and the proper clamps (rolled edge). Flushing your coolant more frequently is always a good idea too. I always put some Dow Corning 111 silicone grease on my fittings to inhibit corrosion that occurs because of stagnant coolant breakdown near the fitting under the hose.

Sure wish there was an easier way to get to this hose.

Bob S.

 

I do to!! I wish Jaguar had just made it a steel line and be done with it!! It is so deep in the engine for a rubber degradable part.
.
.
.

 

If any of you have connections that would result in a silicone replacement hose for this application, we would all appreciate it. I, for one, wouldn't mind spending some
extra bucks to get a hose that's not going to require dismantling the engine intake.
Nonetheless, I'm still going to try the thermal braided hose I previously indicate in
an earlier post.

Now that my blower is on the way to Stiegemeier for the Snake Bite kit, I'm going
to start looking into improved intercooler coils and coolant tanks discussed in other
posts on this forum

 

There are companies that will create custom hoses like this but unless they think they're going to sell a bunch it might be expensive. Worth a try though. Do some googling. You might talk them into doing an entire kit for the car for those who want the "tuner look" and are going to polish their intercoolers so th hoses with be exposed and would "need" to look cool...

It's worth a try.

You also could just replace the large end with the aformentioned silicone heater hose. That would be inexpensive, easily done and cheap.

I wonder if that's always the spot that fails?

Techs????

Bob S.

 

I'm shopping for a car and I don't know where this spot is except that it's under the supercharger?

Do you think you could get some kind of a flexible probe down there with a piece of rag on it that might come back wet if it's just beginning to leak or does it just start poring down all at once?

How about using a fiber optic scope to have a look? I have one of those.

Bob S.

 

Sounds like it bulges first.

Good idea, thoug! Is there room for a borescope-type device to get in? Some have an LED light on the end.

 

YOU COULD SAY THIS IS 1 OF THOSE "MUST DO EVENTUALLIES" i SEE ALOT OF STR'S WITHOUT HAVING THIS ISSUE. ITS NO DIFFERENT THAN ANY OTHER COOLANT SYSTEM PART FAILURE OTHER THAN ITS VERY LABOR INTENSIVE.. THE TELLTALE SIGN IS RED COOANT STAINING DOWN THE BACK OF THE ENGINE ALONG THE SIDE OF THE TRANS BELLHOUSING. ITS ABOUT THE ONLY COOLANT LEAK THAT WILL STAIN THIS AREA. YOU COULD ALWAYS USE THIS AS A "NEGOTIATION TOOL" "HAS THE COOLANT HOSE UNDER THE SUPERCHARGER BEEN UPDATED?"
YOU COULD ALWAYS RUN A "PRESSURELESS COOLING SYSTEM" AND i USEALLY RECOMMEND THIS TO PEOPLE TRYING TO "PROLONG" A COOLING SYSTEM REPAIR. OR CONCERN ABOUT A WEAKENED BULGING HOSE THEY CANT AFFORD TO FIX RIGHT NOW. JUST LEAVE THE RESERVOIR CAP CRACKED TO NOT BUILD SYSTEM PRESSURE. IT WONT BULGE WEAKENED HOSES, NOR FORCE COOLANT OUT OF SMALL LEAK POINTS. YES IT LOWERS THE BOILING POINT, BUT IVE NEVER HAD AN ISSUE WITH ANYONE DOING THIS AND OVERHEATING, AND HOUSTON SURE ISNT A COOL CLIMATE...

 

Great post and photos ttwotees! Thank you!

Unfortunately I imagine this repair coming in my near future, as well as for every other S-Type R owner. Mine just clicked over 36k miles and I just replaced a different leaking hose that was easily accessible, so that ugly hose in the engine valley is probably ready to pop soon. I've got a coolant flush and replacement scheduled for next week.

I've been running without the engine cover for months and leave the hood up in my garage after any long hot runs just to reduce heat-soaking of all those rubber hoses. It's not much, but as an engineer who has done tons of engine/vehicle durability testing, I know it helps just a wee bit. It kills me that they refuse to use silicone hoses or design steel line systems on engines like these, all to save a few $$$. It's called "accountineering."

I now work in the automotive aftermarket industry and know a shop that specializes in custom silicone hoses here in California. I'll see if they have any options/suggestions for all the hoses required on our vehicle, especially that one. I'd rather pay $50 for hose and replace it ONCE.

 

By all means, please pursue that possibility!

Bob S.

 

Classic_Engr; Let me toss my two cents in with Staatsof to encourage you to find at
least this buried hose in silicone. It would save either lots of $ or work. Actually, now
that I've done it, I think it's not really too difficult if you know the tricks and steps to
follow, but many folks don't have the time, but $1,150 - $1,850 is a hunk of change
for this procedure. I doubt you'll have this in time for me, so I'm going to go ahead
with the thermal sleeve I found and fill my coolant system with Evans NPG+ Coolant.
See http://www.evanscooling.com/coolants/

 

ttwotees:
Question on a part number? I have just received
C2C 11477. This is suppose to be a O-ring for the thermostat casting octopus. Suppose to take two. I got what looks like a rubber band? Have you got yours yet? See the attached picture.
Thanks!
.
.
.

 

ttwotees, I'm with ya on a thermal sleeve over a very high quality high temp./pressure hose.