Figured someone reading this thread could use this. And these.

 

Excellent! I'm loving the price of the Castrol Thanks for that Rick. Makes a 9 Ltr oil change so much more bearable!

Where is the best place to get the filter assemblies? I can get the oil locally, but i doubt i'll get a well priced filter without mail ordering it. I'll do the level check tomorrow and see where I stand. I really hope it's a fluid problem Somehow though, I seriously doubt it.


Does anyone know why I am unable to open the attachments in the post above? Do i need to be a paid contributor or something?

 

Just scouring the classifieds in case of a worst case scenario.....what can I buy compatibility wise? I understand this box is used in a lot of high end imports. I'm wondering if buying a wrecked S-Type might be the way to go..must be cheap, and then i have the other parts i need as well, plus the part out of the rest of the car may mean a very cheap transmission for me.

Alternatively, a gearbox from another car may fit?? 6hp26 returns not a lot of results on Ebay, but things are listed by year and model a lot of times, so i'm interested to know what i can use in place of the Jag S-Type box?

 

Ooops, forgot. Your post count is probably too low, but I don't know what the limit is. Basically the pdf's just detail some "other" 6-speed transmissions & their ATF requirements. What I found interesting was the fact that the 6R60/6R80 (Ford's version) used to take the Shell M1375.4 fluid (same as Jaguar 6HP26/6HP28), but now call for Mercon LV "low viscosity" fluid. Haven't found anything specifically that states that LV & Shell are identical, however, cross-referencing for both gearboxes show the same aftermarket replacement fluids for each. (Some of the same replacement parts also.) I'll keep digging and post whatever I find.

 

CHANGING 6HP26 ATF FLUID:
1) Use quality full-synth ATF fluid meeting Dexron VI spec., + additive like Forte.
2) Just get on with it! No more agonizing! And fix any leaks causing low fluid.
3) Allow 500mile or so for full effect.
4) And yes, I've done it all and it worked.
Leedsman.

 

Jon, Rick, and everyone - thanks! Lots of useful info.

The so-called "health and safety" (i.e. "can't do") attitude over here will likely stop me getting access to a lift and the car hitting my garage's low roof makes more than a smallish height gain challenging (and "Notes from a Crowded Island" is right: I have no land I can do this on). May have to pay someone

 

Progress update:

Got car in the air, went through the warm up procedure, took readings from the oil pan with my IR gun. took the plug out at 35 deg C and waited for the dribble..and waited.....and waited. 50 deg and not a drop of oil. Put my finger in and over the lip...nothing! Looks like I've found my problem. Here's hoping anyway. It is definately A problem, but weather it will cure all of my fault codes I'll have to wait and see. I can't get a filter and gasket in a timely manner, so i'm just going to do a drain and refill today and see how it goes.

 

Keep track of how much you have to add and post the quantity please

 

So far it's taken almost 3 ltrs before it started coming back out of the fill plug. I reached for the IR and took the temperature to find I had taken too long dribbling the oil in through a 1/4 in hose from the qt container in the prop area, the temp was over 55 deg. Going to have to wait a while to go back out there and do it all over again.

In the meantime I'm off to get a ODB code reader so I can can clear everything and see what comes back up. Hopefully I can get it back on it's wheels tonight and find out what difference it's made. Fingers crossed

 

ac you might as well order the $13.00 rubber sleeve and replace it when you change out the pan/filter. I received my parts within 3 days from www.zftranspart.com Also did you not purchase the pump to pump the fluid back into the gearbox? I am confused about the dribble from a 1/4" tube. BTW the tranny gasket comes with the new pan/filter.

 

I do have a gear pump that fits 1 qt containers, but right now it is lost in the house move, hence, the 1/4 in tube. Drill hole into the container cap. force 1' of 1/4 id clear hose through hole in cap and push in 1". Position container up alongside the propshaft and run the hose into the fill hole, then just squeeze the container to get it in. It works, it's just a slow process.

I want to see how it behaves after this fluid change before I invest in the pan, gasket and sleeve. I may need to have a rebuild done in which case I'll need more parts so best to get them all at once.

 

3 ltrs - ouch. And as it was too hot you need to add more. (Which I'm sure you know.) No wonder it wasn't driving too well.

 

Make that 4.5 ltrs!

Got it off the stands and took it down the street. The result...............SAME! Crap! One thing is I never managed to get the code reader, so the light is still on saying transmission fault. I'm wondering if it's still in limp mode until the codes are erased? Limp mode on things I've worked on is just restricted rpm, about 3-4K, but this is just really slow to pull away and never really gets a strong pull or builds rpm at all. It feels like trying to drive with the handbrake still on.

I guess I just need to find a way to erase the codes and see if it's the same then. I'm worried the continued use of the car with the oil that low may have done a lot of damage to the torque converter and clutches.

Does anyone have a link to the $20 Elm tool? I can't seem to find it, at least not for that price.

 

Well.....It's hard to wipe the smile off my face now. It's fixed!

I just couldn't wait and looked online for a local merchant that had a OBDII tool in stock, got on the road and brought it home. The idea that it could just be the stored fault codes keeping the transmission in some sort of slip mode seemed to obvious to ignore.

Connected it all up, pulled out P0731 1st Incorrect Ratio, and P1000, which it said was something to do with a system check? There was no sign of the other 2 codes that the Jag dealer pulled. Erased it and waited to see the Transmission Fault warning to go away.....which it did not! Now I'm thinking there must definitely be a problem as it's flagged up again as soon as I've tried to delete it.

Almost completely deflated, I decide to run the scanner 1 more time. Put the plug back on and turned on the ignition. Now here's something different, the trip meter is showing. No light and no Transmission Fault. Before getting too excited I gave it a minute, but it never showed...Winner!

I still have the P1000, need to research what that is.

Right, time for a spin. Backed down the drive and pointed the nose up the street. I can feel a difference right away, namely because the car will now hold on a hill, creeping forward almost. Before it was rolling back while in gear. Hit the throttle and away she went, pulling strongly all the way up the hill. Kick down seemed to be working fine and she was flying. Brought it back home nose up the driveway and took my foot off the brake - still trying to pull up the hill in gear without throttle

On thing I did notice was 2nd came in not as smoothly as I would like. I have glanced over some threads on this issue before, I'll have to dig them back up. Maybe it's just me expecting to much.

I need to give myself a kick for agonizing over where to get a box from and looking through salvage classifieds before just getting the thing in the air and checking the thing that seemed so obvious to me initially - so obvious I dismissed it as something that cold not possibly have been missed before, especially by the Jag tech.

To sum up then.......DO NOT listen to a dealer until you have at least tried to do the things you can do yourself, or seeked the advice of a trusted source, or the guys on this forum. I've come across this situation so many times with cars, boats & Jet Ski's that come back from dealers with astronomical quotes for repair....that they just don't need! I had a buddy go to work for a Nissan dealership while he was out of contract work, and ended up quitting because of the constant pushing by the management to recommend repairs on the inspection that there was nothing wrong with. Works in my favor though because I end up with the jobs, and word of mouth in the deep south is a very powerful thing.

It aggravates the crap out of me when unsuspecting people are ripped off. The guy I just bought this off almost handed them $6K to do a job that has just been rectified for under $30! Sure, I need to get a new pan, gasket, sleeve and more oil, but I'm pretty sure I'll be able to get all of that if I shop around really good......for less than $5970!!

Those having the same problems, I hope this works for you as well.

Darren

 

Excellent!

I've posted details on here about P1000 which explain it and the surrounding stuff. In brief: you want it to change to P1111 fairly soon.

Yes, the car should creep the way it now does. I don't recall you mentioning that it did not, but no matter.

Until you get the extra oil added which I recall wouldn't go in due to being over temperature you could get more problems.

For smoother changes, when you've done all the changes you plan, you probably have to get a dealer to do these and in this order:
1. clear the TCM adaptions
2. reflash the TCM
3. reflash the PCM
4. drive (with their IDS hooked up) to re-adapt the changes
I think the gory details are here somewhere but a good place to look is "the lurch" site. You want FAQ 3941, TSB S307-17 but now replaced by JTB00071v2 (which is on here).

But see if it's OK first

 

Well AC427, a few lessons learned here!
Lesson 1: You can't always believe manufacturers about THEIR OWN PRODUCT.
Lesson 2: The rip-off merchants are everywhere, esp. in THE CAR INDUSTRY.
Lesson 3: Never give in. If you think you have a ghost of a chance of solving your problem, you WILL solve your problem.
Now you will chase down and fix every problem with that car.
Leedsman.

 

Darren, CONGRATS first off! Secondly if you did the drain and fill as stated, what color was the (few drops) of fluid that drained out? Was it a golden color or red? Adding 4.5 litres not much could have drained and if indeed the gearbox was that low maybe these ZF6HP26's are more bullet proof than we think. hmmm.......

 

From my interpretation of what he typed, he did not drain - he just filled. I can't imagine a transmission pan being 4.5 litres low coming from the factory. I have to believe that the previous owners monkeyed with it somehow....

If it indeed was short-filled at the factory by 4.5 litres, all of us should be shaking our heads and checking our ATF levels as soon as we can....

 

I put in just about 4 3/4 ltrs in and very little trickled back out as the oil was already quite warm from the fill attempt I had earlier in the afternoon, so it took roughly 4 1/2 ltrs. The color I think was red...maybe?? I'm colour blind

It looked just like the fresh stuff I put in, maybe a little darker - I just don't know. It had been driven like this for 300 miles at least, so that's got to say something for the box itself.

 

Correct. I did not have the pan, sleeve and gasket to do a fresh drain and fill, plus i wanted to make sure the transmission wasn't toast before I spent the money. The reason for the low oil was a leak, i'm sure. I can't really tell right now because the sump gasket is also leaking and it's just a mess. The oil feels & smells like engine oil, but I wouldn't be surprised if there was transmission oil mixed in there as well. I'll have to get it all washed down and see. I suspect a pan leak - at least I hope so and it's not coming from the input shaft