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Foosh, if you have problems with water spots have you tried something like the CR Spotless system? I have one, and it works. I have the high output DIC-20 and it works as advertised. You wash the vehicle as normal and rinse with the filtered water. Even on a dark car it will dry without spotting without any towel dry. It's not cheap, but it does work.
Thanks. I am on well water, but I do have very expensive dual-tank, water softener system plumbed into the house. It uses resin with a saltwater backwash to clean the resin after so many gallons, but I don't think it deionizes.
I probably would have been better off spending the money on this than on the Master Blaster, but I'll probably look into this. It would be nice to wash that coach and not worry about drying it.
Foosh, just out of curiosity are you sure that both motors were operable and you didn't just get a lemon with 50% power?
Both motors are working fine. I said it was OK, but not a time-saver at all. Moreover, it's probably only worthwhile it for a small car. It would be a futile exercise on that big bus, and wasn't that great on my SUV.
I Have the Master Blaster as well as the CR Spotless system and love the combination. I use it on all the cars however having a good coat of wax and working the water beads from high to low is best.
Interestingly my MB pull 19 Amps and was blowing my 15A circuit breaker so I had an electrician buddy install a 30A. (A little overkill but I wanted good protection) Remember that circuit breakers are only rated for 75% of their listing so even a 20A circuit is too low for the MB.
my experience would say no. It works fantastic on my Jags as they are quartzes and water just beads all the way to the edge of a panel and blows off. On my Golf R which is only sealed the water does not stay beaded and you have to blow dry each panel maybe 10 inches wide with the nozzle so you have to be pretty close would not work on such a large vehicle.
Thanks, I may look into that if I can find a mobile operation that does that. I don't think any of the conventional detail shops will have a large enough garage, but I do.
That would be like $5 grand for a vehicle that big. It was $1200 for my car. Not sure there's good return on investment there.
I think it would likely be a lot more than that. There is 8X-10X the painted surface area of an F-Type. On the other hand, we're talking about a nearly $500K vehicle.
If it were sitting outside like most of these things do all the time, it would probably be worth it. However, this one lives inside a climate-controlled barn when it's not on the road.
Thanks, I may look into that if I can find a mobile operation that does that. I don't think any of the conventional detail shops will have a large enough garage, but I do.
You dont need a detail shop. They do, otherwise they would never separate you from your money.
Its one of the simplest things to do. There is no skill or tools required.
Except you can't buy the pro stuff unless you're an authorized reseller. The retail direct to consumer products are not the same and tend to require more frequent applications.
Except you can't buy the pro stuff unless you're an authorized reseller. The retail direct to consumer products are not the same and tend to require more frequent applications.
You can already see the scam then.
Its not as magical as you think. My shop would be one of those "professional" users. (we use it in a different application) There is an insignificant difference in durability. Besides its all the same Si02.
Thanks, I may look into that if I can find a mobile operation that does that. I don't think any of the conventional detail shops will have a large enough garage, but I do.
Dan Zagami from paint correction by associates has done RVs before
Has anyone ever used this stuff? It's ridiculously easy to apply, and my F-Type still beads up like crazy after 6 months. As far as ingredients, it only says it contains Silicone.
I also applied it to my Jeep this past weekend, and it lays down quite a shine.