XK8/XKR's can be fitted with 3 different Front Brake Diameters (305mm, 325mm and 355mm or 12", 13" or 14")


The 12" and the 13" use the same single piston caliper. Only the caliper mounting brackets of the 13" brake cars are 1/2" taller (and these can be bought for less than $100 from someone who knows what they have or $25 from the junkyard). By swapping brackets from a later XK8 and buying the larger rotors, you can convert an early car from 12" brakes to 13" front brakes.


To convert to 14" brakes (4 piston brembo) the conversion is much more involved, would cost around $1000 minimum - if you bought everything cheap and the 14" brakes are too large for 17" wheels anyway.


The later brackets are only needed if converting to the larger brakes - a worthwhile, but not necessary upgrade.

 

Thanks. I'll stick to the basics.

 

My research suggests that the cheapo Eline kits with zinc-coated rotors and Centric ceramic pads will be good enough for me, so I think I'll order them.

I am wondering if I should also order brake fluid online - I don't know how difficult it would be to get compatible fluid here in Baja California. (We do have an Auto Zone, but their stock is different from that of stores in the U.S.) I have never changed the brake fluid and have owned the car since 2003 . How much brake fluid do I need to buy, and does it matter what brand I buy, assuming the fluid is compatible with my car? (I see that Pentosin, Castrol, and Valvoline make compatible fluid.)

Thank you all!

 

More than likely you won't need to crack open the lines just to swap rotors/pads so you won't need any brake fluid.

New brake pads make brake fluid, anyway. If you top off your reservoir, then swap pads, your reservoir will likely overflow as the fluid gets pushed out of the caliper and back up the line by the thicker pads.

 

Oh! I read on the internet that brake fluid gets dirty over time, and since I have never changed the fluid since buying the car in about 2003, I thought it would be a good idea to change the fluid. No?

 

Brake fluid is "hydroscopic" meaning it absorbs moisture by nature. Most recommend changing every 2 years, 3 years max. So, yes, change the fluid. Common sense says change it after pad/rotor replacement. I have ELINE pads and rotors on my 88 Mercedes and have had them a year now. Virtually no brake dust and they never squeal.

 

Hi... I'm looking at a full kit from Brake Performance for my 2004 STR. It's a tick over 80K miles and has never had rotor replacement. I took it in for inspection last week and although it will pass, both the rotors and the pads themselves are getting rather close to minimum. I have an almost imperceptable wobble from the right rear rotor from time to time.
THinking it's about the time for a full four wheel set I came upon Brake Performance who is having a sale. I can get a nice set of rotors, cross drilled (with chamfers) and black zinc coating and a set of ceramic pads for 377.00 and free shipping. life time defects and 2 years against warps.

Cross-Drilled Brake Kits

Does anyone have experience with Brake Performance?

THis seems like a really decent deal to completly replaced rotors and pads all in one shot.
Cross drilling is mostly bling but I like it...

 

You're best off starting NEW post in the S-type section rather than hijacking someone elses' post in the X100 section. Very different cars.

 

Thanks, Gatorino. I ordered the pads and rotors yesterday. Here's hoping they send the right parts; I have to pay another $50 to have them delivered to me in Mexico, and reviews say these people sometimes get careless with orders.

So back to my earlier question: How much brake fluid do I need, and does it matter which brand, as long as it says it is compatible with my Jag XK8? (I think that means it should be "Dot 4.")

 

I don't know the capacity, but the spec is Super DOT 4.

 

I can highly recommend the BrakePerformance.com kits. I went with their dimpled and slotted rotor/pad kit and have been impressed. They look and perform very well. You can see them on the car below:

 

I believe I purchase a quart (liter) of super dot 4 valvoline to use on mine. If you can get your hands on a hydraulic bleeder pump it makes this much easier.
I have changed all fluids in MY so as to know the condition of each, inc brake fluid flush. Here's the steps from the jtis

Prepare the left-hand front, brake-caliper for bleeding.
Remove dust cap.
Connect bleed pipe and fluid container to bleed nipple
Bleed the brake.
Apply pressure to brake pedal
Open bleed nipple.Fully depress brake pedal.
Close bleed nipple.
Release brake pedal.
Wait two seconds to allow system to prime.
Repeat procedure until air-free brake fluid is expelled from the caliper. Tighten bleed nipple to:Front caliper bleed nipple: 4-6 Nm.Rear caliper bleed nipple: 8-11 Nm.
Following the procedure above, bleed the brakes in the order shown:
Left-Hand Front,Right-Hand Front,Left- Hand Rear,Right-Hand Rear.